Just as the 2004 edition of the Frommer's California guidebook was going to press the catastrophic fires of October 2003 began to plunder much of southern California. Across the region, 750,000 acres were burned -- an area the size of Rhode Island -- causing an estimated $2 billion in losses. The epic wildfires actually caused comparatively little damage to the state's tourism infrastructure, reserving its worst impact for the backcountry areas of San Diego and San Bernardino counties, as outlined below.
San Francisco
The City by the Bay continues to attract visitors with its trademark romantic vistas, outstanding restaurants and attractions, and myriad hotels. But even those who know the city are in for new treats. Check out the following for the latest additions to America's favorite domestic destination.
Hotel rates in San Francisco are still substantially discounted. Shop the Internet and call hotels directly for the best bargains. The Kimpton Hotel Group, creator of small luxury boutique hotels, gives visitors a brand new reason to head to Fisherman's Wharf: the Argonaut Hotel, 495 Jefferson St., (tel. 866/415-0704 or 415/563-0800; www.argonauthotel.com). Located at the very cool Maritime National Historic Park, half a block from the bay, the four-story timber and brick landmark building was originally built in 1909 for the California Fruit Canners Association and is now a slick place to sleep. Expect the 239 rooms to be whimsically decorated and stocked with minibars, flatscreen TVs, DVD and CD players, and all the standard amenities like hair dryers, Internet access, and in-room safes. Suites come fully loaded with telescopes and spa tubs. The hotel offers complimentary morning coffee and evening wine in the lobby, plus daily newspapers and kid-friendly perks like cribs and strollers. Rates range from $159 to $339 for a double and suites go from $249 to $499. The joint has even got a fun seafood restaurant, the Blue Mermaid Chowder House & Bar.
The past year left hundreds of restaurant closures in its wake. But there are some new bright spots. Campton Place Hotel, (tel. 800/235-4300 or 415/781-5555), is serving unique European-inspired cuisine that's strongly rooted in Provence, with an emphasis on purity, simplicity, and the Bay Area's local bounty. Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm garnered a Michelin star while cooking in Switzerland. Now San Francisco diners can savor his stunning carpaccio of wild king salmon and Maine scallops; eggplant gnocchi with sweet pepper sauce and arugula; outstanding celery-covered John Dory with saffron fumet, tomatoes, and tarragon; and beef tenderloin with sauteed foie gras and garden vegetables.
Last year, downtown hotel Shannon Court (tel. 800/228-8830 or 415/775-5000), got a new name -- Hotel Adagio -- and new interiors under the creative eye of the Joie de Vivre hotel group. Now the slick property antes up with food to match the newly tasty surroundings. The hotel's restaurant and bar, Cortez, 550 Geary St. (tel. 415/292-6360) is the creation of one of the city's favorite restaurateurs, Pascal Rigo of Pacific Heights's Chez Nous. Rigo's Mediterranean-inspired menu features what he's best at: small plates of tasty tapas, great breads, and reasonable prices starting around $6 and topping out at $16. Think date-and-mint-crusted rack of lamb with garlic-chive puree, olive-oil-poached yellowtail with crispy shallots in thyme foam, and mascarpone Napoleon with phyllo crisp and olive jam. The dinner-only joint is luring theatergoers and downtown diners.
There's good news in the attractions arena. The Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market, Embarcadero, at Market St. (tel. 415/353-5650; www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com), now at the renovated Ferry Building Marketplace, just keeps getting better and better and is now a must-visit. Not only do they have an enormous outdoor organic market hawking the bounties of local farmers, florists, and specialty food purveyors, but they also host myriad cooking demonstrations. Though the outdoor market is currently only open four days a week (see the website above for hours), the interior gourmet shopping emporium is open daily-and is certainly enough reason to visit. Check out the shops owned by local celebrity food purveyors and fill your backpack with their tasty mementos, or drop in to snack and sip wines at the fun tasting bar. This is a great place to come, hang out, and graze.
Architecture and flower lovers rejoice! The Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park (tel. 415/666-7001; www.conservatoryofflowers.org) reopened in September 2003 after a major renovation to the delicate and dazzling glass building. Drop by for a peruse of the stunning 1878 glass building and its treasure trove of the planet's most gorgeous plants.
The Cliff House (tel. 415/387-5993; www.cliffhouse.com), at Ocean Beach, is still undergoing an extreme renovation, but remains open to visitors.
The Wine Country
Fab food is still a big draw in Napa Valley, and two new additions shine especially bright. In the summer of 2003, famed French Laundry chef Thomas Keller opened Bouchon Bakery, 6528 Washington St., Yountville (tel. 707'944-2253) next to his happening bistro Bouchon. Drop in any time for bread (new batches are baked twice daily), killer treats (think éclairs, cookies, tarts, and more), coffee drinks, and loads of pricey but near-perfect pastry.
Winter 2003/2004 inaugurates Philippe Jeanty's addition to Bistro Jeanty, Père Jeanty, 6735 Washington St., Yountville (tel. 707/945-1000). This stunningly beautiful new French country restaurant serves Provencal-inspired fare with less butter and meat and more oil and fish than are offered at Jeanty's nearby bistro. The seriously sexy joint, which serves lunch and dinner daily, has a casual vibe and boasts a wood-burning oven. Alas, Calistoga's longstanding Catahoula closed its doors for good in December 2003.
On the Sonoma side, La Poste, 599 Broadway (just south of the plaza), Sonoma (tel. 707/939-3663) may be the town's tiniest dining room, but it's already got a big reputation going for it. The shoebox-size French bistro, which has 26 chairs and maple banquettes strategically squeezed amidst brass sconces and mahogany wainscoting, is a Francophile's dream, with a chalkboard announcing chef Rob Larman's daily changing menu, and a whitewashed pressed tin ceiling. Larman's menu may include seared scallops seasoned with tomato-herb vinaigrette over truffled mashed potatoes; braised veal cheeks with cream, Calvados, English peas, and chanterelles; and quail stuffed with foie gras and sweetbreads on a warm salad of fingerling potatoes. There's always a nice wine selection available. When weather permits, you'll find 14 more seats on the sidewalk. Expect to pay between 16 and 25 smackeroos for entree-sized tastes of Paris. This place only served dinner, and is open Wednesday through Saturday. Make reservations.
Nearby, the 480 First St. E. (tel. 707/996-9779) is a looker, boasting an elegant Italianate dining room with dark woods, high ceilings, marble flooring, and a wall of giant doors opening to sidewalk seating and Sonoma's plaza. But it's not just a pretty face; this place also delivers with great food and live entertainment. Drop in anytime after their gourmet breakfast for fantastic "small plates" such as tender Moroccan-spiced lamb loin with saffron couscous, grapes, and mint; French fries with tarragon aioli; seared scallops with vegetable ragout and truffle beurre blanc; and Scharffen Berger chocolate and orange Muscat tort. A nightly performer tinkles the keys and sings jazz standards. Alas, the only bummer is the wine list, which leaves little in the way of options since this spot, owned by Steve Ledson of Ledson Winery, naturally features only Ledson wines. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. FYI: upstairs are six new super-luxury rooms for rent under the name of the Ledson Hotel.
San Diego & Environs
In San Diego County, where the October 2003 fire devastation was most severe, 1,700-plus homes were destroyed, and 16 people were killed. Although the fires reached well inside the city limits, scorching about half of (the Visitor Center was saved), you'll see little of the burned out areas unless you head into the backcountry. Here, the fires roared to the lower slopes of Palomar Mountain and at the back door of Julian, the county's historic gold rush town. Although Palomar and downtown Julian were spared, 6 B&Bs in Julian were severely damaged and are closed indefinitely: the (tel. 760/765-1555; www.julianbnbguild.com) has info on the 16 B&Bs that are operating normally. The Orchard Hill Country Inn and Julian Gold Rush Hotel were unharmed, and most of Julian's famed apple industry is also intact. Alas, nearby Cuyamaca Rancho State Park and its idyllic lake were incinerated.
Hot on the heels of the expansion of downtown's Manchester Grand Hyatt-- now San Diego's largest hotel-- and the debut of the trendy W Hotel, the once-dowdy Westgate Hotel, 1055 Second Ave. (tel. 619/238-1818; www.westgatehotel.com) got a $5.5 million facelift that brings those 18th-century style furnishings to life again. $25,000 was spent gutting and primping each room, and the hotel's Fontainebleau dining room continues to earn local accolades.
Expansion plans for Loews Coronado Bay Resort, 4000 Coronado Bay Rd. (tel. 619/424-4000; www.loewshotels.com) were approved by the San Diego Coastal Commission, and the $4.1 million project is now complete. Additions to the luxury hotel include a 10,000-square-foot full-service health and beauty spa, complete with an outdoor Watsu massage pool, and a state-of-the-art fitness center.
The city's dining scene has taken a few twists and turns. Chef Michael Stebner of Nine-Ten in La Jolla has left to open his own venue, taking his sous chef and pastry chef with him; his new restaurant is called Region, 3671 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/299-6499). The prime Hillcrest space he chose is the one formerly occupied by Mixx, which means we must bid adieu to one of our long-time favorites; however, Stebner promises to continue to focus on ultra-fresh local produce and the cuisine of California but with a much lower tab than at Nine-Ten. Other restaurant closings of note this year include Fio's, the Café W, and the Old Town location of Brigantine (though the Coronado and other locations remain).
There are developments at all three of our animal parks. Topping the list at the San Diego Zoo, Zoo Drive in Balboa Park (tel. 619/234-3153; www.sandiegozoo.org), is the arrival of a new panda, born to Bai Yun in August 2003. Watch for the new cub, recently named Mei Sheng, to be introduced to the public sometime in spring 2004 (until then, you can see mom and cub on the zoo website's "Panda Cam"). At the zoo's sibling, the Wild Animal Park in Escondido, 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido (tel. 760/747-8702; www.wildanimalpark.org) seven young African elephants were imported from Swaziland, rescuing them from probable culling. Over at Seaworld San Diego, 500 SeaWorld Drive, (tel. 619/226-3901; www.seaworld.com), the developments continue to shift toward ride-type attractions. In 2004, the park adds a water-coaster imported from Orlando called "Journey to Atlantis", which takes guests on a splash-filled ride culminating in a plummeting drop.
The Central Coast
New dining options include Chef' Rick's, 1905 Edison St., Santa Ynez (tel. 805/693-5100; www.chefricks.com), where SoCal flair flirts with Southern cuisine (the eponymous chef has Georgian roots). Signature dishes include Creole-braised lamb shanks, shrimp-crusted sea bass, and sinful truffle fries. Note that Mattei's Tavern in Los Olivos is now called Brothers Restaurant at Mattei's Tavern, 2350 Railway Ave., Los Olivos (tel. 805/688-4820). The menu has been revamped by Jeff and Matt Nichols to encompass elegant chops and rich sauces ("you have to like butter and cream," they tell us). Guess that means Mattei's burgers and chili are a thing of the past!
Natural activities head the list of new things to do in the Santa Barbara area. The newly renovated Sea Center, 2559 Puesta del Sol Rd. (tel. 805/682-4711; www.sbnature.org/seacenter), which reopened in December 2003, now encompasses a 6,700-square-foot facility. The kid-friendly museum includes a simulated tide pool with surging waves that's set around a see-through glass tunnel, a remotely operated vehicle that treks to the bottom of the Pacific, and two full-scale marine lab areas. The Coronado Butterfly Preserve (tel. 805/966-4520; www.sblandtrust.org/coronado.html) comes alive with fluttering wings November through March as 100,000 Monarch butterflies take up residence in their winter home. The 9-acre eucalyptus grove that makes up the preserve is located adjacent to the beach just off Highway 101. Admission is free.
In the Channel Islands National Park (tel. 805/658-5733; www.nps.gov/chis/), 12 American bald eagles -- symbols of America's freedom and heritage -- were released into the park in the second phase of a critical five-year program to reestablish the island chain's population (the eagles were wiped out in the 1960s). Lucky visitors on day or overnight trips out of Santa Barbara Harbor may spot the majestic birds.
The Southern California Desert
Since the 1930s, the desert's secluded small inns and weekend hideaways have lured visitors ranging from Albert Einstein to Gable and Lombard. The region is celebrating these intimate inns and modernist hotels with the 16-page "Small Discoveries -- A Guide to Unique Inns & Hotels," which lists almost 200 of desert properties. Obtain a copy by calling tel. 800/41-RELAX.
At the other end of the lodging spectrum, the 560-room Reinessance Esmeralda Resort and Spa, 44-400 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells (tel. 800/552-4386; www.renaissanceesmerelda.com) has completed a $31 million expansion and enhancement. The resort now includes a 13,000-square-foot spa with indoor and outdoor treatment rooms, plus a huge new ballroom.
Also in Indian Wells, the Tuscan-themed Miramonte Resort, 45000 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells (tel. 800/237-2926; www.miramonteresort.com) is now a Preferred Hotel member. Improvements include the addition of a 13,000-square-foot spa in spring 2004, a room remodel, and a new ballroom that should be complete by late 2004.
Right in downtown Palm Springs, the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians opened their $90 million Spa Resort Casion, 100 N. Indian Canyon, Palm Springs (tel. 800/854-1279; www.sparesortcasino.com) in November, offering 230 rooms, a variety of spa treatments, and gaming options, including over 860 slots, progressive jackpots, and more.
Two new restaurants of note have debuted: At the apex of the Palm Spring Aerial Tramway you'll now find Elevations, 1 Tramway Rd., Palm Springs (tel. 760/327-1590). Helmed by Chef Anthony Gusich, the venue features Fusion cuisine, with a particular emphasis on Asian flavors. The food is stellar enough to live up to the awesome view provided by this 5,900-foot-high perch. Reservations strongly advised.
Also drawing attention is the 320-seat Arnold Palmer's, 78-164 Ave 54, La Quinta (tel. 760/771-GOLF), located just a few blocks from the famed golfer's house in La Quinta. Although you won't find Arnie doing the kitchen duties, you will find his favorite comfort food, including steaks, pan-fried crab chops, meatloaf, barbecue baby back ribs, and macaroni and cheese spiked with lobster.