Most of us don't head to the airport in search of fine cuisine, but the food at Chicago's two airports, O'Hare International Airport (tel. 773/686-2200; www.ohare.com) and Midway International Airport (tel. 773/838-0600; www.ohare.com/midway/home.asp), has risen quite a few notches; an airport industry magazine recently honored both airports for having the best concessions in the country. Yes, you'll find the standard pizza stands and fast-food outlets, but both airports have made an effort to include only-in-Chicago
food options as well. At O'Hare, you'll find outposts of the historic Berghoff Restaurant (wiener schnitzel anyone?) and the Billy Goat Tavern, home of the famous "cheezeborger, cheezeborger" (memorably parodied on Saturday Night Live). Midway's attractive new food court includes stands serving up dishes from independently-owned Chicago restaurants including Pegasus (Greek), Lalo's (Mexican) and Gold Coast Dogs (hot dogs).
Be prepared to pay a bit more to travel around town. The Chicago Transit Authority (tel. 836-7000 from any area code; www.transitchicago.com), which operates trains and buses throughout the city, plans to raise fares from $1.50 to $1.75 early in 2004. We really can't complain; the fare had stayed the same for 12 years. Given the CTA's vast transportation network, public transportation is still a bargain compared to taxis.
Where to Stay
The newest hip hotel in town is the Hard Rock Chicago,230 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/345-1000; www.hardrock.com/locations/hotels/chicago), open in early 2004. Located in a formerly shabby 1929 office building, the hotel promises to bring some rock 'n roll attitude to stately Michigan Avenue. Other brand-new accommodations include the Embassy Suites Downtown Lakefront(not to be confused with the Embassy Suites Downtown, just about a mile west), 511 N. Columbus Dr., (tel. 312/836-5900;www.chicagoembassy.com). Part of a new high-rise between the Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier, the hotel gives guests access to the swanky Holmes Place fitness center and spa, and a 21-screen movie theater. Another newcomer is the Courtyard by Marriott 30 E. Hubbard St. (tel. 312/329-2500; www.marriott.com), located two blocks west of Michigan Avenue and ,just north of the Chicago River. As at the Embassy Suites, expect all the standard business-traveler services and amenities.
Where to Dine
The hottest new dining spot is clearly Sushisamba Rio, 504 N. Wells St. (tel. 312/595-2300), in restaurant-heavy River North. The South American/Japanese menu sounds like a gimmick, but it's got roots in reality: Japanese immigrants to Brazil and Peru in the early 20th century did create a new kind of East-meets-Latin cuisine. And Sushisamba certainly has fun with the concept. Walk into the cavernous dining room, filled with shades of orange, red and yellow, and practically shaking with samba music, and it's clear that the attitude is just as important as the food. Order the standard sushi and sashimi, or have fun with the creative Samba rolls (the "El Toro Roll" mixes salmon and jalapeno peppers and is topped with fresh melted mozzarella cheese and crispy onions).
You'll find another eclectic menu -- with far less drama -- at Pili Pili, 230 W. Kinzie St. (tel. 312/464-9988), a new bistro just across the street from the Merchandise Mart in River North. The menu is inspired by the French region of Provence, and includes Italian, Spanish and North African influences. It's a good place to fill up on hearty dishes (traditional Provencal fish stew, Moroccan lamb with couscous and chickpeas, and so on) at fairly reasonable prices (few entrees run more than $20). Visitors staying in or near the Loop now have a new option for breakfast and lunch; the owners of Wicker Park's popular Bongo Room have opened Room 12, 1152 S. Wabash St. (tel. 312/427-9972), featuring a menu full of creative egg dishes, pancakes and sandwiches.
Exploring Chicago
The city's blockbuster museum exhibit for 2004 may well be "Splendors of China's Forbidden City: The Glorious Reign of Emperor Qianlong," on display from March 2004 through September 2004 at the Field Museum of Natural History, Roosevelt Rd. and Lake Shore Dr. (tel. 312/922-9410; www.fmnh.org). The exhibit, organized by the Field Museum in cooperation with the Palace Museum of Beijing, explores life behind the walls of the Forbidden City in the 18th century and includes almost 400 treasures, many of which have never been seen outside of China.
One of the signature exhibits at the Museum of Science and Industry, 57th St. and Lake Shore Dr. (tel. 773/684-1414; www.msichicago.org), a World War II-era U-505 German submarine, will be closed to the public for most of 2004 as it undergoes a much-needed restoration. For years, it stood outside the museum walls, and the Chicago winters took their toll. A new, climate-controlled exhibit, featuring the story of the submarine's capture, will open in spring 2005.
Shopping
Marshall Field's department stores have long been a fashion force in the Midwest. Recently, the chain's flagship State Street store, 111 N. State St. (tel. 312/781-1000; www.MarshallFields.com), was completely overhauled to make room for some big names, including the first Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche accessories boutique in the U.S.; an expanded beauty department with on-the-go spa treatments and exclusive products from Nars and Smashbox; the first American boutique from German sportswear designer Olsen Europe; and a gourmet food department developed by Chicago celebrity chef Charlie Trotter. Field's is also the only U.S. department store to carry the full Designers Guild home collection, an eye-catching line of linens and accessories from British color maven Tricia Guild. But amid all the change, some classic features of the landmark 150-year-old building remain, including the world's largest intact Tiffany glass dome.
Chicago After Dark
Millennium Park, the city's newest urban oasis, now features two new homes for the performing arts. The Harris Theater for Music and Dance, 205 E. Randolph Dr. (tel. 312/629-8696; www.madtchi.com) is the city's first (and only) theater dedicated primarily to dance performances, which is good news for Chicago's many troupes. Internationally-renowned groups such as Hubbard Street Dance Chicago and the Joffrey Ballet of Chicago will finally have a regular stage for hometown performances. Millennium Park's most dramatic architectural feature is practically next door to this dance space: a new music pavilion designed by Frank Gehry, which will be home to the Grant Park Music Festival (tel. 312/742-7638; www.grantparkmusicfestival.com). The pavilion features Gehry's signature ribbons of curved steel and promises stellar acoustics to match. Best of all, this architectural masterpiece will be accessible to all; the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra will offer its annual program of free concerts beginning in summer 2004.
As in any big city, hot nightspots come and go. In Chicago, the long-time survivors tend to be laid-back Irish pubs and neighborhood taverns with minimal attitude. But the cocktail lounge craze is gradually making inroads. Slick lounges aimed at the hipster crowd have now crept into North Side neighborhoods that were formerly filled only with sports bars. On the trendy Armitage Avenue strip, you'll find Lot 48, 948 W. Armitage Ave. (tel. 773/871-8123), a minimalist nightclub/lounge that offers a sophisticated environment right in line with the neighborhood's soaring real-estate prices. In Wrigleyville, land of the sports bar, you'll find a distinctly different atmosphere at Spot 6, 3343 N. Clark St. (tel. 773/388-0185), a dance club notable for its all-orange color scheme. Will these trendy spots make it? At least give them credit for trying.