Where To Stay
A new addition to the city's boutique hotel scene, Hotel Blake, 500 S. Dearborn St. (tel. 312/986-1234; www.hotelblake.com), looks more like a private club than a cookie-cutter chain hotel. Located in Printer's Row, just south of the Loop, the hotel is a seamless blend of historic architecture and ultra-modern amenities (flat-panel TVs in the bathrooms; iPod-compatible radios).
Where To Dine
Before highlighting the best of the new, let's have a moment of silence for the dear, departed Berghoff. This historic German restaurant, a Loop favorite for more than a century, closed in early 2006, to the disappointment of long-time Chicagoans and fans of its home-brewed beers.
Chef Shawn McClain first wowed us with Asian-inspired seafood at his Wicker Park restaurant Spring; next, he won raves for his small-plate, mostly vegetarian menu at Green Zebra. So it's no surprise that McClain's newest venture, Custom House, 500 S. Dearborn St. (tel. 312/523-0200; www.customhouse.cc), has been drawing diners since the moment it opened. Located in the Hotel Blake, the restaurant focuses on upscale American comfort food (and I do mean upscale -- entree prices are quite steep, and you have to pay extra for side dishes). Custom House's biggest plus is its tranquil atmosphere, a welcome change from restaurants where you have to shout to have a conversation.
A high-profile new spot in Wicker Park's busy restaurant scene is Del Toro, 1520 N. Daman Ave. (tel. 773/252-1500), a modern take on the tapas bar. The dramatic space, filled with mosaics and nightclub-inspired lighting, morphs from restaurant to lounge as the night wears on (DJs spin live music on weekends). Don't expect traditional paella here; the menu's twists on tradition include anchovy-and-avocado bruschetta and calamari stuffed with chorizo sausage.
Another place that's drawing diners as much for the scene as the cuisine is Carnivale, 702 W. Fulton Market St. (tel. 312/850-5005; www.carnivalechicago.com) where the Latin menu is reflected in the vibrant, colorful décor and salsa-music soundtrack. This multi-level restaurant used to be a nightclub, and it still has a high-energy vibe; it's the kind of place you come to celebrate with a group, rather than cuddle up with a date. The menu covers a range of South American specialties, from ceviche to rum-glazed pork with rice and beans.
Exploring Chicago
The biggest news on local museums is the complete transformation of the Chicago Historical Society, 1601 N. Clark St. (tel. 312/642-4600; www.chicagohs.org). Opening in fall 2006, the redesigned museum will feature exhibits arranged by theme rather than straight timelines (topics include Chicago's importance as a shopping center, and an area devoted to Illinois' most famous native son, Abraham Lincoln). There will also be a special gallery just for kids, and an area devoted to the museum's world-famous costume collection.
Elsewhere on the museum-remodeling front, the Spertus Institue of Jewish Studies, 618 S. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/322-1700; www.spertus.edu), is also undergoing a renaissance. This previously rather straightforward Loop museum will be moving into a brand-new, bright and modern building next door, with added exhibition space, room for expanded programming, a children's gallery and a café. The current Spertus Institute will remain open for most of 2006, but will be closed in late fall as exhibits and collections are transferred to the new building.
Shopping
It's the end of an era: Chicago's most famous hometown department store, Marshall Field's, will be no more as of mid-2006. The store -- in business since the mid-1800s -- hadn't actually been owned locally for decades, but the store remained a Chicago icon, with its signature dark-green shopping bags and stylish selection of designer names. But despite its recent buyout by Macy's -- and subsequent name change -- it's still worth stopping in the State Street flagship store, 111 N. State St. (tel. 312/781-1000) to gawk at the soaring central atrium topped with a gorgeous Tiffany glass dome.
Chicago After Dark
The Loop -- filled with office buildings and convention-friendly hotels -- isn't exactly a nightlife hotspot. So Hard Drive, 151 E. Wacker Dr. (tel. 312/239-4544; www.harddrivechicago.com), is a somewhat surprising addition to the local nightlife scene. Complete with go-go dancers and trendy cocktails, this dance club is tucked inside the lobby of the Hyatt Regency Chicago hotel. It's not surprising, given the location, that it's mostly frequented by out-of-towners, and the clientele can vary widely depending on what convention is in town. But if you want to go dancing within walking distance of a downtown hotel, it's pretty much your only choice.
A more refined option is Reserve, 858 W. Lake St. (tel. 312/455-1111; www.reserve-chicago.com), an upscale lounge aimed at the 25- to 35-year-old crowd. Tables are for bottle service only, so a night out here can add up. Still, its Asian-inspired décor and friendly service make Reserve a good pick for a night out with friends.
Looking for something a little more active? Lucky Strike Lanes, part of a national bowling alley chain, recently opened at 322 E. Illinois St. (tel. 312/245-8331; www.bowlluckystrike.com), in the rapidly developing River East neighborhood. Located within easy walking distance of the many hotels along Michigan Avenue, it's teen-friendly in the early evening (although anyone under 21 must be accompanied by an adult); from 9pm on, it's strictly 21-and-over.
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