International travelers heading to Denver International Airport from England on British Airways will now be flying out of London's Heathrow Airport instead of Gatwick Airport. The switch was made in late October 2002. Heathrow, the world's fourth busiest airport, offers more connecting flights than Gatwick, and also has better ground transportation.
Denver International Airport is adding a sixth runway at a cost of $160 million dollars. The 16,000-foot runway, one of the longest in the world, is scheduled to be in use by September 2003, and is expected to increase the number of large planes used for international flights. Also underway is a project, scheduled for completion in 2005, that will add up to ten new gates plus six commuter gates at the airport; and ground has been broken on a new 518-room Westin Hotel, being built adjacent to the airport, and expected to be open in late 2005. The hotel, which is costing $125 million, will be connected to DIA's main terminal by a covered pedestrian bridge.
The Natural Environment
Just when we were finally able to remember those important elevations--the height of Pikes Peak, Longs Peak, and even Denver, the Mile High City--we discover that we've been wrong all along. Using satellites and other sophisticated technology not previously available, the U.S. Geodetic Survey has discovered that mountains and other landmarks in Colorado and other parts of the Rockies are up to 7 feet higher than previously thought. In Denver, the one-mile marker on the steps of the state capitol will be moved a few steps, and in most other cases only maps and books (including Frommer's Colorado) will need to be corrected for upcoming editions. For instance, the official height of Pikes Peak has increased 5 feet to 14,115 feet above sea level, and the state's highest point, Mount Elbert, is now seven feet higher at 14,440 feet. Surveyors said, however, that the changes did not produce any additional 14,000-foot peaks (known as 14-ers); Colorado still has 54 of them.
Denver
Planning a Trip--Motorists beware! I-25 south of the city remains a construction mess, as widening work continues between C-470 and the city of Castle Rock. Construction on a light rail extension in southeast Denver is also underway. These projects, and several others, will keep city driving a challenge, to say the least, until at least 2008.
Accommodations--Our top choice for lodging in Denver, the historic Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th St., (tel. 800/228-2917 or 303/297-3111; www.brownpalace.com) has completed a $1.5-million renovation of its luxurious Victorian-style Grand Ballroom, adding exquisite crystal chandeliers, new wall coverings, draperies, and carpeting. This project comes on the heels of a $16.5-million five-year remodeling of the guest rooms on the top two floors, which were redecorated in Art Deco style.
Dining--There are changes afoot on the Denver dining scene. Radek Cerny's extremely popular Papillon Café shut its doors. Cerney says he closed the restaurant because he was burned out, but that it might reopen under new ownership.
New in the Denver area are two branches of Ted's Montana Grill, known for well-prepared steaks and burgers, made from either bison or beef. Co-owned by media magnate Ted Turner, the restaurants also offer 20 different chicken dishes, plus daily blueplate specials and homemade soup. The restaurants, which opened in late 2002 and early 2003, are at Larimer Square, 1401 Larimer St., (tel. 303/893-0654) and in the Denver suburb of Littleton, 7301 S. Santa Fe Dr., suite 610, (tel. 720/283-2303), and are open daily 11am to 10pm.
Other newcomers to the Denver dining scene include Adega Restaurant and Wine Bar, 1700 Wynkoop St., (tel. 303/534-2222), which serves creative Spanish-influenced cuisine and has a fantastic wine list; Aquarela, 3000 E. 3rd. Ave., (tel. 303/399-6080), a high-end Brazilian-French restaurant; and LoLa, 1459 S. Pearl St., (tel. 720/570-8686), which serves upscale Mexican dishes--mostly seafood--with a variety of innovative chili sauces.
Attractions--Visitors to the Denver Zoo, City Park at 23rd Ave. and Steele St., (tel. 303/376-4800; www.denverzoo.org) can now get up close and almost personal with a variety of exotic primates, such as DeBrazza monkeys and mandrills, at the zoo's new Congo Basin exhibit. The $3.1-million project features nose-to-nose encounters, separating visiting humans from the zoo residents with a sheet of glass. In addition, there are larger, more realistic African habitat exhibits, lush landscaping, an educational center, and a feeding platform that allows visitors to watch zoo personnel feed the gorillas. Congo Basin is the first part of a $125-million renovation project scheduled for completion in 2009.
A bit of France has come to Denver with the opening of the new Centennial Gardens, located on the edge of the South Platte River Valley in downtown Denver. The $2.7-million project, which covers five acres, was inspired by a visit to Versailles, France by Denver Mayor Wellington Webb. It combines elements of a traditional French garden with native Colorado plants, and includes walking and sitting areas.
Of the temporary exhibits at the Denver Art Museum, 100 W. 14th Ave., at Civic Center Park, (tel. 720/865-5000; www.denverartmuseum.org), the highlights include an exhibit of modern and contemporary art by artists including Andy Warhol, Henri Matisse, and Roy Lichtenstein. The exhibit will be on display until August 3, 2003.
Shopping--Located in the Denver suburb of Lakewood, about ten miles from downtown Denver, Colorado Mills opened in late 2002. A 1.2 million square foot shopping mall, it contains some 18 anchor stores and about 200 specialty shops, including outlet stores for Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. There's also a museum, skateboard park, rock climbing wall, and entertainment areas.
Boulder
Accommodations--The number of unique historic lodgings in the Boulder area has decreased by one. The Boulder Victoria, a fine bed-and-breakfast inn, has ceased operation and been converted to a private residence.
The Millennium Harvest House, 1345 28th St., (tel. 800/545-6285 or 303/443-3850) has completely redone its restaurant, now called Thyme on the Creek, with a new executive chef and a menu that specializes in seafood and wild game prepared in a fusion of Asian, French, Italian, and American cuisine styles.
The already attractive cottages at the Colorado Chautauqua Association, 900 Baseline Rd., at 9th St., (tel. 303/442-3282, ext. 11; www.chautaqua.com) are undergoing extensive renovations, including the addition of handcrafted furnishings, which should be completed by summer 2003.
Attractions--Unfortunately, funding problems have led to the closing of the Collage Children's Museum.
A major remodeling project has closed the indoor exhibits at the National Center for Atmospheric Research, 1850 Table Mesa Dr., (tel. 303/497-1174; www.ncar.ucar.edu) until May 2003, but the nature trail and other outdoor attractions will remain open to the public.
After Dark--Boulder Theater, 14th and Pearl sts., (tel. 303/786-7030; www.bouldertheater.com) has begun offering a cabaret-type experience, with table seating, snacks and light supper items, and both hard and soft drinks, at its Thursday evening film showings.
You'll still be able to buy its fine beers in stores throughout the West, but the Oasis Brewery has closed its restaurant.
Fans of the Bard, take heed: The Colorado Shakespeare Festival (tel. 303/492-0554; www.coloradoshakes.org) has announced its 2003 program, which features performances of Macbeth, A Midsummer Night's Dream, and Richard III. The festival takes place from late June through late August.
Colorado Springs
Accommodations--The crown jewel of Colorado Springs accommodations, The Broadmoor, Lake Cir. At Lake Ave., (tel. 800/634-7711 or 719/634-7711; www.broadmoor.com), has earned yet another bragging right. In late 2002, Tennis Magazine named the resort hotel the best tennis resort in the Rockies and the fourth best in the U.S., and also rated the Broadmoor's tennis program as the best in the country. The magazine also ranked the Spa at the Broadmoor as the third best tennis resort spa in the U.S.
Northern Rockies Update
Rocky Mountain National Park--A two-year construction project will limit travel on the Bear Lake Road at Rocky Mountain National Park (tel. 970/586-1206; www.nps.gov/romo), beginning in May 2003. During summers (May through October) the road, which goes from Sprague Lake to Bear Lake, will be open to shuttle busses only. Private vehicles will be permitted on the road during the winter months, although vehicle access to Sprague Lake will be blocked by bridge reconstruction during the winter of 2003-2004.
Steamboat Springs--One of our favorite music programs, the Strings in the Mountains Festival of Music (tel. 970/879-5056; www.stringsinthemountains.org) has announced its summer 2003 season, which opens June 28 with a concert by the renowned Tokyo String Quartet. The concert, which opens a six-week program of classical music, will be followed by an elegant champagne and dessert reception with the artists. Strings in the Mountains, which began in 1988, also presents jazz, world, country, western, and bluegrass programs throughout the year.
Fans of real beer are mourning the loss of another microbrewery. The Steamboat Brewery & Tavern has shut its doors.
Winter Park--Good news for skiers. The City of Denver, which owns Winter Park Resort (tel. 970/726-5514, or 303/892-0961 in Denver; www.winterparkresort.com), has cut a deal with Intrawest Corp., a Canadian company, to manage Winter Park and make some $50 million worth of improvements. The resort, about 73 miles west of Denver, offers almost 3,000 skiable acres, with mostly intermediate and expert terrain. Intrawest also manages nearby Copper Mountain Resort, so some good package deals are expected.
Meanwhile, motorists heading to the Winter Park area will now have a much easier trip thanks to a road improvement project that was completed in the fall of 2002. The widening of U.S. 40 over 11,307-foot Berthoud Pass gives motorists two uphill lanes and one downhill lane, plus better shoulders, more guardrails, and even bike paths. Historically, Berthoud Pass has often been closed or had tire chain requirements during winter storms. These improvements will also aid travelers heading to Granby and Grand Lake, which provides access to the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park.
Vail--Vail Cascade Resort & Spa, 1300 Westhaven Dr., (tel. 800/420-2424 or 970/476-7111; www.vailcascade.com) continues to pile up the honors. In December 2002, Vail Cascade was rated the fourth best ski resort in North America by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler magazine, moving up from its sixth place spot in 2000 and 2001. Magazine readers rated 158 resorts, ranking them according to terrain and conditions, accommodations, ambiance and amenities, lifts and lines, food, and service.
Sylvan Lake State Park, located west of Vail (tel. 970/625-1607; www.coloradoparks.org), opened a new visitor center in late 2002, part of an overall expansion and improvement project at the park. The park covers almost 1,300 acres, with spectacular views and opportunities for camping, boating, and trout fishing.
Aspen--One of Colorado's finest restaurants, Renaissance, 304 E. Hopkins St., (tel. 970/925-2402; www.renaissancerestaurant.com), is offering wine tasting classes with accredited Sommelier Rob Ittner. The informative and fun classes range from general information about wine to comparisons of the wines of different countries and regions. Call for the current schedule.
Western Slope Update
Grand Junction--There are two more choices for those seeking reliable, moderately priced lodging in Grand Junction. A new Holiday Inn Express, 625 Rae Lynn St., (tel. 800/HOLIDAY or 970/245-8164) opened in 2002; and a Hampton Inn, 205 Main St., (tel. 877/307-5678 or 970/243-3222) is scheduled to open in the spring of 2003.
Glenwood Springs--Construction of a 4,300-foot scenic tram to take visitors to the historic Fairy Caves and other attractions at Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park (tel. 800/530-1635 or 970/945-4228; www.glenwoodcaverns.com) was well underway in late 2002, with plans for the tram to be operational by March 1, 2003, or shortly thereafter. This will allow the park to be open daily year-round (it's been open in summer only), with guided cave tours, a nature trail, exhibits, and other attractions. Also under construction and expected to open at the same time is a restaurant, which will offer American cuisine for lunch and dinner.
There are two new ways to experience the beautiful scenery in the Glenwood Springs area. Kuka Kennels Tours (tel. 970/947-0024) offers dogsled tours in the White River National Forest from November through March. Price for a 2-hour ride, which includes a snack and a hot drink, is about $150 for adults and $100 for children 10 and younger. Highlander Helicopter (tel. 970/309-0121; www.highlanderhelicopter.com) offers scenic helicopter tours for one to four people in the Glenwood Springs and Aspen areas year round, including custom tours and helicopter rides to celebrate special events. Cost varies depending on the number of people on the trip, but is often about $165 per person.
Southwestern Colorado Update
Durango--Air service between Albuquerque, New Mexico and Durango with Rio Grande Air ended in late December 2002, but flights to and from Albuquerque are still available with other carriers.
Telluride--It seems there's always something new at Telluride Ski Resort (tel. 800/801-4832; www.tellurideskiresort.com). Just in time for Christmas 2002, the resort opened Sprite Garden Terrain Park and Thrill Hill. The new terrain park offers a steeper half pipe and the latest jibs, along with additional terrain; and Thrill Hill provides opportunities for snow biking, tubing, and snow skating (using wheel-less skateboards designed for snow).
The Southern Rockies Update
Curecanti National Recreation Area--Personal watercraft use at Blue Mesa Reservoir in Curecanti National Recreation Area, as well as seven other national recreation areas, will not be permitted in 2003 while an environmental assessment is being prepared and public comments are being solicited. Personal watercraft is the generic term for small, high-powered boat-type vessels such as Jet Ski and Waverunner, and critics oppose their use because of their noise, water and air pollution, and safety concerns.
Great Sand Dunes National Monument & Preserve--This wonderful national monument and preserve, which is expected to be reclassified as a national park in 2003, is getting a practically new visitor center. The project, expected to be completed in early 2004, includes a new auditorium for a showing of an introductory film on the dunes, new exhibits, and expansion of the exhibit space and bookstore. In the meantime, though, the existing visitor center has been closed, and a temporary visitor center has been set up in the parking lot.
Southeastern Colorado Update
Pueblo--The El Pueblo Museum (tel. 719/583-0453; www.coloradohistory.org) remains closed for a major expansion project, but is expected to reopen in August 2003, with twice the exhibit space, a special children's gallery, and an archeology exhibit, in addition to a replica of an 1840s adobe placita and the El Pueblo Trading Post. The museum, operated by the Colorado Historical Society, will also have a new name: the Pueblo History Museum.
La Junta--Southeastern Colorado has its first state park, John Martin Reservoir State Park (tel. 719/829-1801; www.coloradoparks.org), a prime boating and fishing destination that was previously managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Colorado State Parks has vowed to spend close to $5 million on improvements, including new and better campgrounds, a visitor center, and upgraded boat ramps. The park is located along U.S. 50 about 35 miles east of La Junta.
Frommer's Colorado, 7th Edition will be in stores in February, but you can preorder your copy today from our online bookstore by clicking here.