Despite the recent downturn in international tourism, Costa Rica remains a vibrant and growing tourist destination. Changes, both big and small, are nearly constant. Here are some of the highlights.
Planning Your Trip
The first phase of the long-awaited remodeling and expansion of San José's Juan Santamaría International Airport is complete and construction is well underway on the second phase. Arriving and departing passengers now enjoy a modern and spacious new terminal. The baggage claim and customs areas are a huge improvement over the former setup, although lines at the immigration counter can still be long and slow during peak hours. Most major car-rental agencies have desks inside the terminal, directly in front of the Customs area exit. A full array of shops and services is currently being installed in the new terminal, although a food court is part of the second phase. The chaos of finding a taxi driver upon exiting the terminal has been greatly reduced with the construction of a little kiosk just outside the terminal exit where travelers pre-pay for a taxi ride to the hotel or destination of their choice.
Sansa (tel. 221-9414; www.flysansa.com) has begun offering an in-country "air pass," at $199 for 1 week and $249 for 2 weeks. Theoretically these allow for unlimited flights inside Costa Rica, although limited seating, overbooking, and preference given to full-price ticket buyers might make these air passes a slightly less appealing bargain. For its part, Delta Airlines (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com) has begun offering regularly scheduled flights between its Atlanta hub and the Daniel Oduber International Airport in Liberia. These flights run three times weekly and are a great option if you're only interested in visiting the beaches and volcanoes of Guanacaste.
San Jose
The Amón Park Plaza is now called the Hotel Amón Plaza (tel. 800/575-1253 in the U.S., or 257-0191; www.hotelamonplaza.com). The name change is the only significant difference here.
The biggest development on the restaurant front is the opening of a half dozen or so new restaurants in the Plaza Itskatzu shopping center, located just off the highway and sharing a parking lot with the Courtyard San José hotel. Here you'll find Tutti Li (tel. 289-8768), a good Italian restaurant and pizzeria; Fresk Co. (tel. 228-2279), a salad bar and lunch joint; Icarus (tel. 215-2079), an upscale Continental restaurant; Chancay (tel. 289-6964), which serves Peruvian and Peruvian/Chinese cuisine; as well as Las Tapas de Manuel (tel. 288-1633) and an Outback Steakhouse (tel. 288-0511) franchise.
Don't be fooled by the name and small smattering of mariachi bands loitering around: The new Bar La Esmeralda on Avenida 2 is a very far cry from the former landmark bar and restaurant of the same name. This new incarnation is a poorly lit, tiny space with virtually no ambience.
On the east side of town, the raucous All-Star Bar & Grill has closed its doors, while over in Escazú, the very popular and trendy Café Urbano quickly, quietly, and inexplicably did the same thing.
Guanacaste & The Nicoya Peninsula
By the time you read this, the Tempisque River bridge should finally be open and functional. The bridge will greatly ease travel and reduce drive times to most destinations on the Nicoya Peninsula, including all of the Guanacaste beaches south of Playas Flamingo, Conchal, and Potrero.
The Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica on the Papagayo Gulf is also very near to completion and is expected to open by early 2004. Check the Four Seasons' website at www.fourseasons.com for updates on the opening.
The Meliá Playa Conchal has been rechristened the Paradisus Playa Conchal, 4005 San Antonio Belen - Heredia (tel. 888/336-3542 in the U.S., or 654-4123; www.solmelia.com). Implicit in the name change is the property's conversion into a premium all-inclusive resort, where a whole host of food, drink, and activity options are included in the price.
In Tamarindo, locals and visitors alike are swatting and chasing balls around at the new Tamarindo Tennis Club (tel. 653-0898), which has two outdoor nightlit courts. After a brief stint at yet another location, Pachanga restaurant appears to have closed for good.
In Malpais, Flor Blanca Resort(tel. 640-0232; www.florblanca.com) has recently opened. This just may be the most luxurious intimate resort in the entire country, with large and exquisite private villas, a beautiful beachfront setting, and excellent food and service.
The Northern Zone
The Original Canopy Tour (tel. 645-5243; www.canopytour.com), recently expanded its Monteverde operation, which now has 11 platforms and two rappels, while retaining the unique ascent made on the hollowed-out interior of a strangler fig tree.
Central Pacific
The newest attraction in Puntarenas is the Parque Marino del Pacífico(Pacific Marine Park) (tel. 661-5272) a modest collection of saltwater aquariums highlighting the sea life of Costa Rica.
Club del Mar Condominiums & Resort (tel./fax 643-3194; www.clubdelmarcostarica.com) finished its remodel and upgrade and is currently hands down the most upscale and appealing option in Jacó.
Meanwhile, over in Playa Hermosa, The Backyard (tel./fax 643-1311; www.backyardhotel.com), a perennially popular surfer bar and restaurant, has added some comfortable midrange rooms right in front of one of the best beach breaks in the country.
Down in Quepos, the folks at El Gran Escape have closed their popular Epicentro bar and opened a new Japanese restaurant, Tropical Sushi (tel. 777-0395), right next door to their restaurant. The fish is very fresh and the food here is excellent.
The Southern Zone
Travelair (tel. 220-3054; www.travelair-costarica.com) and Sansa (tel. 221-9414; www.flysansa.com) are both now offering direct flights to the small airstrip in Drake Bay and this is now the principal route taken, replacing the plane, van, and boat trip required when traveling via Palmar Sur and Sierpe.