In 2004, the Bush administration stepped up its pressure on curtailing travel to Cuba by virtually eliminating the granting of license applications for educational and people-to-people exchange programs, while also limiting the right of Cuban-Americans to visit the island. However, these policies are widely perceived as an effort to garner short-term political gain amongst the Cuban-American population in the key electoral state of Florida. Many observers feel that no matter who wins the 2004 election, the travel restrictions will most likely be lifted sometime in 2005.
Cuban authorities have been cracking down on tourists bringing in DVDs and DVD players. They have even been confiscating a certain percentage of laptop computers equipped with DVD players, although owners can pick them up upon departure.
The departure tax has been raised to $25, which must be paid in cash at the airport upon your departure.
As we went to press, the Horizontes hotel chain ceased operations. There's a consolidation process going on, and no one is yet sure who will remain standing. It looks like everything will soon fall under the control of Cubanacán and/or Gaviota. Look out for name changes at former Horizontes properties (i.e., Horizontes Hotel Vedado may become Cubanacán Hotel Vedado, or simply Hotel Vedado), but phone numbers should remain the same; as for websites, it's too soon to tell.
Havana
The lovely Hotel Raquel on Calle Amargura, at the corner of San Ignacio (tel. 7/860-8280; www.habaguanex.com), is one of the newest additions to the Habaguanex chain, housed in a beautifully restored old building with impressive marble floors and a stunning stained-glass atrium lobby.
The former Novatel Coralia Miramar hotel is now the Occidental Miramar, Avenida 5, between Calles 78 and 80, Miramar, Playa (tel. 7/204-3584; www.occidental-hoteles.com). Aside from the name and management company, little else has changed at this luxurious business-class hotel.
During my last visit, La Torre (tel. 7/832-5650) was closed for remodeling. Rumor had it that longstanding chef Frank Pecol had left as well, and it's unclear if, when, and in what form the hotel will reopen.
Taberna de la Muralla, set on a corner of Plaza Vieja (tel. 7/866-4453), is an excellent new brewpub and casual restaurant.
The newest entry in the world of live music clubs is the Jazz Club Irakere, Calle A no. 314, between Avenidas 3 and 5, Miramar (tel. 7/206-4219).
Viñales & Western Cuba
Horizontes has added 20 new rooms apiece at their Cayo Levisa and Maria La Gorda hotels.
On Cayo Largo del Sur, the Barcelo Cayo Largo (tel. 45/24-8080; www.barcelo.com) is the newest resort to open, while word has it that the Sol Meliá group is planning to build a super-luxurious Paradisus resort here as well.
Varadero & Mantanzas Province
The new luxury Gran Lido Varadero (tel. 45/66-7200) has gotten off to a rocky start, since soon after opening, the Jamaican Superclubs chain was forced to relinquish its management contract, turning the hotel over to Gaviota, a Cuban company. As of press time they still have no website or any means of taking direct bookings, although travel agents are selling packages here.
The former LTI Varadero Beach Resort is now the Maritim Varadero Beach Resort (tel. 45/66-8822; www.maritim.de). Little besides the name has changed here.
La Comparsita, Calle 60 and Avenida 3 (tel. 45/66-7415), is an excellent new club in Varadero featuring nightly cabaret shows and concerts.
Trinidad & Central Cuba
The large and luxurious Meliá Cayo Santa María (tel. 42/35-0500; www.solmeliacuba.com) is the newest place to stay in la Cayería del Norte, the string of cayes north of Santa Clara.
The Cienfuegos Yacht Club, Calle 35, between Calles 8 and 10 (tel. 432/55-1275), has been beautifully restored and now features a working marina, as well as several restaurants and bars.
Camagüey & the Northeastern Coast
In the Jardines del Rey area, the Parque Natural El Bagá (tel. 33/30-1063) is an interesting new complex that features a series of nature trails and lookouts through mangroves, litoral forest, and on raised platforms over lagoons, as well as a small reconstruction of an ancient indigenous village, with periodic live shows of local actors engaged in recreations of Taíno dances.
In Camagüey, El Ovejito, Plaza del Carmen, Calle Hermanos Aguero between Onda and Carmen (tel. 32/29-2524), is an excellent new restaurant specializing in lamb dishes.
El Oriente
With 944 rooms, the new Playa Pesquero (tel. 24/3-0530; www.gaviota-grupo.com) is the largest hotel in Cuba.
The former Breezes Costa Verde is now called simply Playa Costa Verde (tel. 24/3-0520; www.gaviota-grupo.com), after the Jamaican Superclubs chain was forced to relinquish its management contract.
Hotel Escuela Telégrafo, Calle José Antonio Saco 108 (tel. 23/425510; www.ehtgr.co.cu), is a new training hotel in downtown Bayamo.
In downtown Baracoa, the Hostal La Habanera (tel. 21/4-5273) is an excellent new hotel option.
Santiago de Cuba
The newly refurbished Gran Hotel Escuela (tel. 22/65-3020; www.granhotelstgo.cu) is a comfortable option in the heart of downtown being run as a training school.
While a little further from the downtown, the recently restored Hotel Libertad (tel. 22/62-7710; www.islazul.cu) is also a good choice, just off Plaza de Marte.