Efforts to improve the links and cooperation between Edinburgh and Glasgow can mean travel between the two cities becomes easier for visitors. In 2007, there are plans to run more trains between Scotland's two primary metropolises -- at least in the summer months -- particularly later into the early morning hours. Talks continue on creating a faster railway link, as well, between Edinburgh and Glasgow, although there is no timeline as such for such a development. Even without any high-speed trains, the trip often takes as little as 50 minutes during the day, when carriages leave either city bound for the other four times an hour.
Where to Stay
There have been no major changes to the hotel scene in either Edinburgh or Glasgow. However, across Scotland (as well as England and Wales), the collapse of the Swallow group of hotels into receivership has led to some temporary closures as new buyers are sought. One such victim was the Station Hotel in Ayr, southwest of Glasgow, which shut it doors in December 2006. A new owner promised to reopen the landmark hotel in 2007, however.
Where to Dine
The restaurant market in Edinburgh and Glasgow remains as dynamic as ever with new openings in both cities. One of the more exciting developments has occurred in Leith. The accomplished chef/owner Tony Borthwick moved his Michelin starred restaurant, the Plumed Horse, to the Scottish capital's waterfront in late 2006 from its original rural location in Southern Scotland. The menu has gourmet offerings such as slow-braised pig's cheek, served with a smoked paprika-crusted loin and braised belly of pork, beetroot and red cabbage. It is at 50-54 Henderson Street (tel. 0131/554-5556; www.plumedhorse.co.uk).
Also in Leith, newcomer chef Tom Kitchin has many people talking about his Kitchin. A native of Scotland, Kitchin returns to his home country after working at some top restaurants in London, Paris and Monte Carlo. His menus favor modern Scottish creations. Kitchin restaurant is located at 78 Commercial Quay (tel. 0131/555-1755; www.thekitchin.com).
Edinburgh's oldest and most respected Indian restaurant relocated in late 2006, as well. Khushi's is now found in Old Town, near the castle, at 9 Victoria Street (tel. 0131/220-0057).
In Glasgow, the owners of the esteemed Gamba restaurant have opened a new, large and cosmopolitan bar and restaurant in the heart of the city center. At Urban Bar and Brasserie, executive chef and co-owner Derek Marshall combines his skill at preparing seafood and fish dishes with plenty of meaty options, such as veal chops or roast lamb loin. Urban Bar and Brasserie is located at 23/25 St. Vincent Place (tel. 0141/248-5720; www.urbanbrasserie.co.uk).
To assist the ethnic diversity, OKO sushi bar was revived at a new location after closing earlier in 2006. OKO Express offers typically tasty and freshly made Japanese rolls of cold rice and raw fish, as well as hot dishes such as teriyaki. OKO Express is at 78 Queen Street, in the Glasgow city center (tel. 0141/248-9666).
Finally, the venerable Papingo restaurant did not change hands, but was re-branded as Manna in autumn 2006. While the interiors were redone, it remains a fine, sturdy option in the city center of Glasgow.
What to See & Do
In Edinburgh, areas of the Palace of Holyroodhouse that were closed for multi-million dollar renovations have been reopened to the public. Much of the work, which took six years to complete, was to ensure that the historic rooms of the palace were adequately fire-proofed. Still a royal residence when the Queen and court visit Edinburgh, Holyroodhouse wants to avoid the fate of the royal family's Windsor Palace in England, which was ravaged and very seriously damaged by an accidental fire in the 1990s.