Edinburgh and Glasgow continue to be the two most dynamic centers in Scotland. Edinburgh has added the title of world literature capital to its already strong cultural credentials, while Glasgow is riding high on the reflected glory of producing the hottest UK band of recent memory: Franz Ferdinand.
The second Scottish Parliamentary elections in May 2003 brought a host of new parliamentarians from more innovative smaller parties. They have injected a breath of fresh air to Scottish politics, although some of the country's populous remain unimpressed with their own parliament.
The new building that houses it, which opened in the summer of 2004, however, has impressed almost everyone who has visited. The modern, strong architecture has won over many of the critics who felt it cost too much money to build. Indeed, the edifice has become a major tourist attraction, drawing thousands of visitors.
Planning Your Trip
The US dollar's continuing weakness against the British pound after the presidential elections in 2004 makes Scotland a more expensive destination from visitors from the United States and may put some people off. Still, Edinburgh and Glasgow benefit from being English-speaking destinations with lots of attractions, free from any over-riding concerns of global terrorism. Air links from North America are strong, especially in the summer, and getting around both cities is a breeze once you've arrived. The train franchise was given to a new operator, First Scotrail, who has promised to invest more in the system. Perhaps they might consider running more trains between Edinburgh and Glasgow, especially late at night, which would be a boon to both cities. We'll see.
Where to Stay
There haven't been any huge changes in the accommodation scene in either city. One small hotel in Edinburgh near the Botanic Gardens, the Botanic House Hotel (formerly the Marina; tel. 0131/552-2563; www.botanichousehotel.com), has been renovated and provides comfort slightly off the beaten track on Inverleith Row. Budget-minded travelers to Glasgow, should get onto the Internet and see what bargains may be obtained at the large brand name hotels -- as well as some of the more basic guest houses on Garnethill in the City Center.
Where to Dine
Eating out in Edinburgh and Glasgow means being quite spoiled for choice, and there are almost always new venues on the horizon. In Edinburgh, we are sad to report the apparent closure of Rogue restaurant, however. Good news is that the people behind the great Italian deli Valvona & Crolla have opened a new café near St. Andrew's Square called VinCaffe, 11 Multrees Walk (tel. 0131/557-0088). On the Royal Mile in the heart of Old Town, lovers of burgers will appreciated the whopping and freshly prepared ones at Relish, 217 High St. (tel. 0131/225-8770). In the capital's New Town, Urban Angel, 121 Hanover St., (tel. 0131/225-6215) makes a point of featuring wholesome, organic, and free-trade produce on its menus.
In Glasgow, star of local TV cooking shows, John Quigley, is just about to open a new café/diner worth visiting: Red Onion, 257 West Campbell St., in the commercial center. And in the West End, Oran Mor, at the top of Byres Rd. (tel. 0141/357-6200), is an innovative restoration of an old church, with bars, live music, drama, dance and two restaurants. At the bottom end of Byres Rd. is the new and very stylish White restaurant and the 500 Club (tel. 0141/337-2433). And for some simple but satisfying pub food, go to the Goat, an comfortable new bar, 1287 Argyle St, (tel. 0141/357-7373).
West of the city, near Erskine, Mar Hall (tel. 0141/812-2255; www.slh.com) is a new luxury inn with a restaurant featuring the impressive modern Scottish cooking of chef Jim Kerr.
Sightseeing
As already mentioned, the new Scottish Parliament Building (www.scottish.parliament.uk) may now go near the top of people's itineraries during a visit to Edinburgh. On the Mound in the Princes St. Gardens, the Weston Link has provided a modern subterranean "bridge" between the Scottish National Gallery and the neighboring Royal Academy, with a new café/bar/restaurant, gift shop, and computer terminals that help visitors to understand the national art collection and history.
In Glasgow, the soaring observation tower at the Science Centre (www.glasgowsciencecentre.org) on the River Clyde has reopened to the public after some nagging problems and repairs.
But what is most eagerly anticipated is the re-opening of the Glasgow Art Gallery and Museum in Kelvingrove (www.glasgowmuseums.com). The multi-million pound repairs and improvements to the red sandstone Victorian building which houses the masterpieces of the city's impressive collection should be completed in 2006.