What's new in Europe? Read on to find out what recently opened, what's changed, and what's hot in the most popular cities across the continent.
Amsterdam
Museum fans face a double whammy in Amsterdam. The Rijksmuseum, Holland's top museum, continues its years-long partial closure for renovation, with "only" the finest paintings by the Dutch Masters and some other elements of the collection on display in the sole wing that remains open. In 2004, the modern art Stedelijk Museum also closed for a period of years, for rebuilding. The Stedelijk's collection should be back on display in 2005, somewhere, once appropriate temporary accommodations have been secured.
In at least partial compensation, a glittering new piece in the mosaic of Amsterdam's old-harbor redevelopment should be in place, with the opening of the Muziekgebouw concert hall on the waterfront just east of Centraal Station. This ultramodern facility will be the new home to the BIMhuis jazz and De IJsbreker contemporary and experimental music operations.
Athens
The Greek National Tourist Office (GNTO), also known as the Hellenic Tourism Organization (EOT), closed its main office just off Syntagma Square, and re-opend at 7 Tsochas St., Ambelokopi (tel. 210/870-0000; www.gnto.gr), well out of central Athens. At press time, the GNTO announced plans to open several smaller information centers in and around Syntagma Square.
Take advantage of the newly pedestrianized streets that link Athen's main monuments: You can stroll from Hadrian's Gate, past the Acropolis and Ancient Agora to the Kerameikos. There are often exhibits and sometimes concerts along the way.
Both the Grande Bretagne and the Hilton have reopened after extensive renovations; it's well worth taking a glance at the ornate gold gilt lobby of the Grande Bretagne and the sleek lines of the Hilton's vast lobby.
Aigli (tel. 2210/336-9363), the very chic, very pricy bistro in Athens's Zappeion Gardens, just off Syntagma Square, has reopened. Aigli has both cafe and restaurant sections, so you can have a coffee at a table in the cafe and enjoy watching stylish Athenians at nearby restaurant tables toying with their fois gras and oysters.
A number of museums, including the National Archaeological Museum in Athens and the archaeological museums in Olympia and Delphi, underwent renovations in honor of the 2004 Olympics. All should be open when you visit, but be sure to double-check before you head to Delphi: There are persistent rumors that Delphi's important archaeological museum (tel. 22650/82-312) may open for the Olympics (Aug 2004) and then close again for further renovations.
If you are driving from Athens Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport to the Peloponnese, be sure that you have an up-to-date map showing the new Athens's ring road, which saves you plowing through Athens's perpetual gridlock.
Barcelona
Barcelona has been buzzing about the arrival of Forum 2004, a summer-long event of performances, speeches, and exhibitions, concluding soon after this book goes to press. If you arrive after Forum departs, don't fret -- it'll leave behind a new convention center; new parks; two entirely new neighborhoods, Diagonal Mar and 22@, east of the city center; and loads of new hotels. Most of the hotels are higher-end properties, but good budget options include the new Banys Orientales hotel, located in the center of town at Argenteria 37 (tel. 93/268-8460); it may be one of the city's best buys. It's 3 blocks from the cathedral, sparkling clean, and reasonably priced. It even sits above a classy yet inexpensive restaurant. The Nouvel, Santa Ana 18-20 (tel. 93/301-8274), and Ciudad Condal, Mallorca 255 (tel. 93/215-1040), have also gotten attractive face-lifts.
Recent moves by Barcelona's public transit company have made it easier to get around town. The same ticket now works on all subways, buses, and commuter trains within the Barcelona metro area. Reflecting the new regime, several train lines have been renumbered. Outside of town, the newly restored Montserrat Rack Railway (www.cremallerademontserrat.com) provides a tremendously picturesque way to get to the popular mountaintop monastery complex.
Berlin and Potsdam
The final soccer game of the 2006 World Cup is expected to take place at the Berlin Olympiastadion on July 9. Since Berlin is expecting a sell-out crowd, book early for hotels.
Euraide, geared toward English-speaking travelers and answering questions on train travel and local sightseeing, has moved from its obscure location inside Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten to the station's more visible Reisezentrum (Travel Center). Incidentally, in 2006 Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten's status as main train station will end with the opening of the Hauptbahnhof farther east (presently Lehrter Bahnhof).
Berlin Tourismus has changed its website to www.berlin-tourist-information.de.
The price of a single journey on Berlin's public transportation network has decreased from 2.10€ to 2€ ($2.30), but this is no great savings. Before, you could travel as much as you wanted within a 2-hour period, including round-trip excursions; the new ticket is good for only one journey in one direction.
The Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2 (tel. 030/20 30 40), has partly reopened following many years of expansion and renovation. An addition by I. M. Pei, housing special exhibits, is now open for business.
The Story of Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 207-208 (tel. 030/88 72 01 00), which portrays 8 centuries of the city's history, has added a nearby 1970s underground bunker to its exhibits. Luckily, the bunker, built to house 3,500 people in the event of an atomic bomb, was never called into action during the decades of the Cold War, since it was equipped with only enough food and water to last 2 weeks.
Bern and the Berner Oberland
The ridiculously low ceiling that the Swiss government used to place on bets in its gambling casinos has been removed. Switzerland will never be Las Vegas, but its casinos are now gambling parlors that have become, well, at least more serious. Typical of the reorganized casinos in the country is the newly reopened Grand Casino Kursaal, Kornhausstrasse 3 (tel. 031/339-5555), which attracts an international crowd, often in the diplomatic corps.
Brussels
The city has introduced the Brussels Card, a chip-equipped plastic card, to smooth access for visitors. The card, which costs 30€ ($35), is enabled for 3 days, and affords free or reduced admission to around 30 city museums and attractions, along with free use of public transportation, and discounts on a range of other services.
Budapest & Lake Balaton
As of 2004, Hungary will be a member of the European Union, and the current plan calls for adoption of the euro as currency in 2007.
Groundbreaking for the long-planned new metro line (from Keleti Station in Pest across the river to Southern Buda) remains on hold, due to funding problems. Construction may start in 2004 with E.U. infrastructure money.
Nagymezo utca between Andrássy and Bajcsi-zsilinszky utca, the "Broadway of Budapest," has been at long last turned into a pedestrian-only area. The floodlights in the pavement and the fountain have turned the once ugly area into a most attractive hub of the city's theater life, providing a pleasant atmosphere for an evening stroll.
The biggest reconstruction project in the downtown area of Pest in recent years is St. Stephen's Basilica and the spacious square in front of it, which has been turned into a Mediterranean "plaza" with lots of plants and terraces in the summer.
Copenhagen & Helsingør
Once again, The Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue), one of Copenhagen's most enduring monuments, had to suffer yet another attack by vandals in 2003. By now the city has become adept at restoring limbs or lost body parts to this bronze statue, created in 1913 and inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's famous fairy tale. The good news is that it's been restored and will be posed on an offshore rock waiting to greet you at the Copenhagen harbor at the time of your visit.
Dublin
The newest addition to Dublin's public transportation network -- the sleek light-rail tram known as LUAS -- is due for completion in mid-2004. Traveling at a maximum speed of 70kmph (45 mph) and departing every 5 minutes in peak hours, LUAS aims to appease Dublin's congestion problems and bring the city's transportation into the 21st century. Three lines will link the city center at Connolly Station and St. Stephen's Green with the suburbs of Tallaght in the southwest and Dundrum and Sandyford to the south. For further information, contact LUAS (tel. 01/703-2029; www.luas.ie).
Though eating out has gotten more expensive in recent years, some restaurants still offer exceptional bang for your buck. Our favorite affordable eateries include Mimo Cafe, the superlative vegetarian restaurant Juice, and Aya @ Brown Thomas's conveyor-belt sushi bar. They all prove that you don't have to sacrifice taste and trendiness when you want to save money.
Hoping to bring home some chic souvenirs? The hippest new shopping destination is the up-and-coming Old City neighborhood, just west of Temple Bar. The area is centered on the pedestrianized Cow's Lane and is particularly good for fashion and smart, craft-based housewares. On weekends, a clothing and crafts market is set up in the district, accentuating the bohemian feel.
Edinburgh & Environs
As prices in the heart of Edinburgh soar higher and higher, more frugal visitors head to the outskirts of town for cheaper living costs. Because of the good public transportation network, this is no hardship. In 2003 more readers than ever wrote in praising A-Haven, 180 Ferry Rd. (tel. 0131/554-6559), only a 5-minute bus ride north of the main rail station. Guest rooms overlook the Firth of Forth.
As the cuisine of Auld Reekie continues to improve, more and more British food magazines have discovered such recently uncovered delights as Duck's at Le Marché Noir, 2/4 Eyre Place (tel. 0131/558-1608), with its sophisticated blend of Scottish and French cuisine and one of the best fixed-price lunch deals in town. Another recent discovery is Dubh Prais, 123B High St., Royal Mile (tel. 0131/557-5 732). "The Black Pot" (its English name) is one of the best places to introduce yourself to moderately priced and old-fashioned Scottish cuisine, such as suprême of freshly caught salmon or saddle of venison in juniper sauce.
Florence
Santa Croce, the last of Florence's three major churches, has capitulated and begun charging admission ($4.60), a disturbing trend that began with Santa Maria Novella and then San Lorenzo.
In late 2003, Michelangelo's David started getting a thorough, 7-month scrubbing that left the artistic icon sparkling clean in May 2004 -- just in time to celebrate his 500th birthday.
Another development making us a bit wary of rising prices is that several of the famously cheap hotels lining Via Faenza are renovating and going mid-scale on us. Luckily, rates have barely budged at the Albergo Azzi, even though they've added TVs, air-conditioning, and other amenities to the rooms and jumped up a price category. The similar work on its neighbor, Albergo Mia Cara, was just getting started when this edition went to press; it will be transformed into a three-star, moderate hotel-at nearly double the present rates.
In other Tuscan news, although we already announced in the last edition that the Leaning Tower of Pisa finally reopened to the public after more than a decade, that happy event had only just occurred when we went to press. Turns out that someone decided the already lofty price they were charging to climb the tower when it first opened, $13, wasn't enough, and the cost has skyrocketed to $20 -- the priciest single admission to a major sight or museum in all of Italy. Ah, well. It's still worth it.
Lisbon & Environs
The clean, efficient Metro system has been upgraded and is being extended even further. The 52-hectare (130-acre) Expo '98 site, which has been converted to permanent uses, including a grand aquarium and shopping center, now boasts a sweeping waterfront plaza that is the largest of Lisbon's burgeoning list of wireless Internet hotspots. The initial designs for a new casino, slated for construction in Lisbon's port area, are finally getting underway after much discussion.
London
Brick Lane (over in the city's East End), with its numerous Indian restaurants, is booming and blooming. It has seen the emergence of several classy, cafe-style restaurants where it is still possible for two people to enjoy quality Indian food inexpensively.
As far as accommodations go, the budget end of the market is being badly neglected as hoteliers expand upmarket. It's nice to see that the previous urban jungles that once surrounded the Tower of London have been replaced by an altogether more pleasing landscape that includes several hotels which, although not budget hotels, are at least situated in the heart of the old city.
Speaking of the old city -- those of you who have visited in the last couple of years may have noticed an eye-catching, conical building that has come to dominate the very center of the city (in truth, it's impossible to miss). This is the new Swiss Re building, designed by Norman Foster (also responsible for the Millennium Bridge); Londoners have affectionately nicknamed it the "erotic gherkin."
In 2003, the old tel. 192 directory assistance was replaced by a plethora of new directory services, all with the prefix tel. 118. Warning: If you phone any of them, the operator will ask if you want to be put through to the number. If you do, you will be charged a premium rate for the call. It's better to track down the number and make the call yourself.
Madrid
Art lovers rejoice! Three major Madrid museums will fly with new wings by late 2004. Both the Prado and the Museum Thyssen-Bournemiza will use their new spaces to display more of their impressive permanent collections, which at the Prado stretches to 20,000 works. At the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, the new wing is devoted to temporary exhibits. The Thyssen extension opens in March, the Reina Sofia extension in June, and the Prado should be ready by October. Another museum, the Museo Lázaro Galdiano, should be done with its multi-year renovation by the end of 2004, but call ahead.
Madrid's museum renovators aren't out of work, though. They're busy refitting the Museo Municipal and Museo Romántico, so if you intend to visit either of those, check to see if they're open.
The owners of high-quality hostal T.I.J.C.A.L. got tired of turning people away, so they opened T.I.J.C.A.L. 2, Cruz 26 (tel. 91/360-4628) near the Puerta del Sol, in 2003. So far, it seems to be held to the same high standards as the original. The Europa, Carmen 4 (tel. 91/521-2900), also opened 35 attractive rooms in a new wing in 2003, improving its rank among Madrid's budget hotels.
Madrid's subway Line 8 from the airport has also been extended to Nuevos Ministerios nearer the center of town, and you can check in for many airlines at the Nuevos Ministerios station. It's only a 12-minute trip from Nuevos Ministerios to the airport. That makes taking a cab to Nuevos Ministerios a cheaper alternative to riding all the way to the airport.
Munich & Neuschwanstein
The opening soccer game of the 2006 World Cup is expected to take place in Munich on June 9. Since Munich is expecting a sell-out crowd, book early for hotels.
Planet Hollywood has closed its doors, but another world-renowned institution, the Hard Rock Cafe, has taken up residence at this great location just across from the Hofbräuhaus at Platzl 1 (tel. 089/242 949 0).
The Deutsches Museum, Museumsinsel 1 (tel. 089/217 9 1), the world's oldest and largest technological museum, has added a children's section, called the Kinderreich, with interactive displays geared for kids 8 and younger.
The Pinakothek der Moderne, Barer Strasse 40 (tel. 089/238 05-360), which opened in 2003 and houses four major collections under one roof -- art, graphics, architecture, and design -- is now Munich's second-most visited museum after the Deutsches Museum.
After many years of renovation, the Antikensammlungen, Königsplatz 1 (tel. 089/59 98 88 30), with its Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities, is again open to the public.
Munich nightlife suffered a blow when the massive Kunstpark Ost closed in 2003. It has been resurrected, however, as Kultfabrik, Grafingerstrasse 6 (tel. 089/49 00 90 70), offering more than two dozen concert venues, themed bars, and dance clubs.
To avoid long lines at Neuschwanstein, Bavaria's most popular castle, reserve admission tickets in advance online at www.hohenschwangau.de.
Nice
The new Terminal 2 at Nice Airport has opened and construction is finally complete at all roads leading to both terminals. The new space is airy and bright and has a few excellent cafes, bars, and one fine-dining restaurant. The shopping area (past security) is excellent and includes several specialty stores selling Provençal goods.
Check out the website for budget airline easyJet (www.easyjet.com), which has been increasing service to Nice and offering incredibly low fares.
The highly recommended Hotel Le Lido (tel. 04/93-88-43-15), a block from the sea, has been renovating its very affordable rooms. The most talked-about hotel in Nice is the Hi Hotel (tel.04/97-07-26-26), opened in 2003. The ultra-modern decor is attracting a steady stream of European yuppies. Its basement Happy Bar pulls in local young professionals who come to see and be seen.
On the popular Cours Saleya, 'Eclat du Cours (tel. 04/93-85-68-76) is our latest bargain discovery. It offers a delicious three-course meal for only 15€ ($17). You can opt to sit on the sun-splashed terrace or in the cozy dining room. Also in Vieux Nice, near the beautiful place Rosetti, the new Samsara (tel. 04/93-80-70-63) offers an elegant and intimate dining experience at an affordable price; the three-course prix fixe menu is 17€ ($19).
If you're heading to Cannes, the newly renovated Hotel America (tel. 04/93-06-75-75) is one of the best splurge choices on the Cote d'Azur. A block from the sea and close to the Film Festival building, it boasts luxurious rooms with spacious marble bathrooms at reasonable prices. In high season, doubles are 145€ ($167).
Paris
Due to a decline in visitors, many hotels have decided not to raise their rates in 2004, and some restaurants have kept their prices untouched from 2002.
After several delays, the Air France terminal 2E finally opened at Paris's Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport in July 2003. Sleek, modern, and user-friendly, the terminal will reduce congestion from terminals 2C and 2D. Be sure to check which terminal you will be arriving at or departing from. Most Air France and Delta flights from the U.S. are expected to arrive at the new terminal, while Air Canada will continue to use 2A.
Many hotels seem to have taken the dip in occupancy rates in 2003 as an opportunity to begin renovations. On a charming narrow street a few minutes from the Eiffel Tower, Hôtel de L'Alma, 32 rue de l'Exposition, 7e (tel. 01-47-05-45-70), is renovating all of its rooms and has added minibars, safes, and marble bathrooms.
New dining venues just keep opening up. One of our favorites, and celebrity chef Alain Ducasse's latest creation, is the exquisite Aux Lyonnais, 32 rue St-Marc, 2e (tel. 01-42-96-65-04), which serves surprisingly affordable and delicious authentic dishes from Lyon.
Prague & Environs
The latest addition to Prague's hotel address book is the Hotel Neruda, Nerudova 44 (tel. 257-535-557; www.hotelneruda-praha.cz), a renovated and refurbished place with a perfect location for exploring the Prague Castle just a few steps up the hill.
For a fine-dining experience, visit the Hergetova Cihelna, Cihelná 2b (tel. 257-535-534; www.cihelna.com), which offers an international menu in a great location on the bank of the Vltava River next to Charles Bridge. This expansive former brick factory has been divided into a restaurant, cocktail bar, cafe, music lounge, and large summer terrace.
Another place with a close connection to the Vltava was recently rebuilt and opened to the public. An old mill on Kampa Island, called Sovovy Mlýny, has been transformed into Museum Kampa (tel. 257-286-147; www.museumkampa.cz) and now presents an exhibition of Czech and eastern European modern art.
Rome
There's now a shuttle bus direct from Ciampino Airport downtown (though it costs 8€/$9 compared to the old public transport's 2€/$2.30).
The no. 64 bus no longer carries you all the way to St. Peter's! In fact, no cross-town bus does anymore. Now they all stop at Piazza Pia next to Castel Sant'Angelo (the most convenient bus there is the no. 40 Express from Termini), where you can either walk the 4 long blocks or grab the no. 62, which circles continuously to St. Peter's and back.
Those convenient J-line buses (put in place for the papal Jubilee crowds of 2000) have been retired as planned.
Nearly all Roman hotels have been bit by the renovation and inflation bug. A slew of the wonderfully cheap old standbys (including the Abruzzi and Smeraldo) have been renovated into three-star blandness, and are now charging the inflated prices to prove it. Several others (including the Coronet) have similar plans in the works. It's getting hard to find a double room in Rome for less than $100. On the plus side, one hotel, the Marcus, actually got cheaper.
Many of Rome's galleries, museums, and sights now offer advance reservations through a single reservations service called Pierreci (www.pierreci.it) for 1.50€ ($1.75) per ticket. The sights covered are some biggies: the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine and Palatine Museum, Capitoline Museums, Baths of Caracalla, Castel Sant'Angelo, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, Crypta Balbi, Baths of Diocletian, Centrale Montemartini, Domus Aurea, Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella, Villa dei Quintili, Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli, and Museo Arceologico at Palestrina.
Admission to the Vatican Museums went up yet again, to 12€ ($14). Still worth it, though.
The restoration of Michelangelo's Moses in San Pietro in Vincoli church has been finished.
In November 2003, Renzo Piano's gorgeous new Parco della Musica complex of performance halls opened on the north side of town, near the Stadio Falminio. The premier Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia musical association was the first outfit to take up residence in one of its auditoriums.
Salzburg & Innsbruck
It costs more to get around in Salzburg nowadays, as both buses and taxis have raised their rates. A single bus trip now costs 1.70€ ($1.95), while taxi fares start at 3€ ($3.45). The Salzburg Card, which allows unlimited transportation and includes admission to virtually all the city's attractions, now costs 19€ ($22) for 24 hours, except from mid-June to mid-September when it costs 2€ ($2.30) more.
A new museum is taking shape atop Mönchsberg. The Museum der Moderne Salzburg (tel. 0662/80 42-2541), slated to open its doors at the end of 2004, will feature changing exhibitions of art and photography from the 20th and 21st centuries.
The hottest attraction in Innsbruck is currently the redesigned Bergisel (tel. 0512/58 92 59), a ski jump first built in 1925. The sleek and futuristic-looking tower houses an observatory and a cafe.
Seville & Andalusia
One of Seville's oldest buildings is now one of its newest hotels. The Hotel Convento La Gloria, Argote de Molina 26-28 (tel. 95/429-3670), dates from 1363. It's not the only new historic hotel in Andalusia, though; Granada seems to be crawling with them. The most affordable of Granada's new/old bunch is the Casa del Capitel Nazari, Cuesta Aceituneros 6 (tel. 95/821-5260), in a building dating from 1503.
Also in Granada, Iberos y Patagonicos, Escudo de Carmen 36 (tel. 95/822-0772), has recently opened to serve exciting "new Spanish" cuisine, a long shot from typical stick-to-your-ribs Andalusian food.
Back in Seville, Sol Café Cantante, Sol 5 (tel. 95/422-5165), says it's a new kind of flamenco studio for a new generation. They specialize in young local performers and offer dance lessons; the two, obviously, are linked. They're a good alternative to the beaten path of tablas.
The place to be for youthful nightlife in Seville nowadays is the Alameda de Hercules, a long plaza just north of most of the tourist attractions. A slew of bars around the plaza attracts a crowd of patrons from 18 to 35, both straight and gay.
Depending on when you read this, you may see work for Seville's first Metro line around town. The line, scheduled to open in 2006, won't be of much use to tourists.
Stockholm & Environs
It's a rare day when a moderately priced hotel opens in central Stockholm, but Hotel Rival, Mariatorget 3 (tel. 08/545-789-00), made its debut in 2003 on Södermalm in the center of the much-frequented restaurant district. Much of the hotel honors old movies, including the Gösta Berling saga that starred Greta Garbo. Scandinavian modern design is showcased here.
Stockholm's much-attended Moderna Museet, Skeppsholmen (tel. 08/519-552-00), underwent a massive rejuvenation in 2004 and is now much more user friendly. Combined with the Museum of Architecture, the showcase of modern paintings has a permanent collection of 20th-century masters but keeps abreast of post-millennium developments by its roster of changing exhibitions that feature new themes.
Venice
The Phoenix has risen from the ashes! La Fenice opera house, devastated by a fire in 1996, has been painstakingly reconstructed and held an inaugural concert in December 2003. However, until the theater begins hosting a regular schedule in November 2004, performances will continue to take place at the Palafenice (a giant tent near the city parking lot).
As St. Mark's Basilica no longer allows you to bring in bags, they've set up an experimental "left luggage" service outside.
A number of museums now allow you to reserve tickets and entry times before you arrive, including the Accademia (where it can be worth it during the ling lines of summer) and the Ca d'Oro (where it's really unnecessary).
Admission prices have risen (by a whopping 25% to 35%) at some top sights, including the Accademia, which now costs 9€ ($10), and the Peggy Guggenheim, which now charges 10€ ($12).
The Church Association which regulates entry to most of Venice's top churches now offers cheap (.50€/60¢) audioguides at most of its member churches.
In nearby Padova, restoration of the Scrovegni Chapel, completely frescoed by Giotto, has been finished -- and the admission has more than doubled to 11€ ($13). And that doesn't count the absolutely necessary 1€ ($1.15) booking fee that you need in order to snag one of the limited, timed entries available each day.
Vienna & Krems
Vienna Tourist Information has changed its website; you'll now find it at www.info.wien.
Two museums that were closed many years for renovations have now reopened. The Albertina Museum, Albertinaplatz 1 (tel. 01/534 83-540), houses one of the world's largest collections of graphic art, only a portion of which is shown in exhibitions that change every 3 months. The Liechtenstein Museum, Fürstengasse 1 (tel. 01/319 57 67-252), is housed in a palace filled with a private collection of Renaissance and baroque portraits, Dutch still lifes and landscapes, and Biedermeier art. The Historisches Museum der Stadt Wien, in an attempt to create a new image, is now called the Wien Museum, Karlsplatz 4 (tel. 01/505 87 47-0), with a new addition of temporary exhibitions complementing the museum's displays of Vienna's 7,000 years of history.