There will always be an England, or so the saying goes, and that may be true, but it won't always be the same country. The landscape is constantly shifting and being redefined at all times. For example, in 2003, Britain distanced itself from Europe in two significant ways: It joined the U.S. in ousting Saddam Hussein in Iraq, and it reportedly has decided against adopting the euro, retaining the British pound sterling as its mode of currency. Here are some more of the latest developments:
London
In chic Knightsbridge, Britain's wonder chef Marco Pierre White has taken over the once famous Drones, 1 Pont St., SW1 (tel. 020/7259-6166). The place had gone stale, but no longer. The Continental cuisine is light, sophisticated, and delicately prepared. A trendy crowd, often including celebrities, is showing up at the doorstep.
The Tate Britain (Milbank, SW1; tel. 020/7887-8000) and Tate Modern (Bankside, SE1; tel. 020/7887-8008), located on opposite sides of the River Thames, are now linked by a "Tate to Tate boat" (tel. 020/7887-8888), taking art lovers from one stellar museum to the other.
Long the residence of the late Queen Mother, Clarence House, Stable Yard Gate, SW1 (tel. 020/7766-7303), has opened its doors to the public. The restored John Nash-designed mansion is now the official residence of the Prince of Wales.
The Thames Valley
One of the best restaurants around the university city of Oxford actually floats. It's Rosamund the Fair, Tooley's, Banbury Museum, Spiceball Park Road, in Banbury (outside Oxford; tel. 01295/278690). A purpose-built narrow boat restaurant, this floating dining room serves a superb Continental and British cuisine as it cruises along the Oxford Canal. The cruise and dinner take about 2 1/2 hours, a bit of an enchantment on a summer night with the swans gliding by.
Hampshire & Dorset
In the village of Chawton, an Elizabethan manor has been converted into the Chawton House Library (tel. 01420/541010). The manor, once owned by the brother of Jane Austen, is a center of study for early English (1600-1830) women's writing. The collection contains some 6,000 volumes and manuscripts.
Wiltshire & Somerset
More and more visitors are renting a bike to explore the spa city of Bath. The best place to go for rentals is The Bath & Dundas Canal Company, Brass Knocker Basin at Monkton Combe (tel. 01225/722292).
Bath is fabled for having a bevy of the finest restaurants in the West Country. The most excitement today generates around Pimpernel's, 15-16 Royal Crescent (tel. 01225/823333), in one of the city's most deluxe hotels. Chef Steven Blake dazzles palates with his innovative British cuisine.
In the city of Bristol, the popular hotel, Jarvis International Bristol, has changed stripes and become the Ramada Plaza Bristol, Redcliffe Way (tel. 01179/260041). The establishment still has the Jarvis's amenities and an unbeatable location in the town center.
Devon
The grandest address in this shire is Bovey Castle, North Bovey (tel. 01647/445016), an elegant 1906 estate within a national park. It's been converted into one of the most luxurious accommodations in the southwest. For those seeking the ultimate retreat, where comfort and taste reign supreme, this is the way to go -- providing you can afford the steep tariffs.
The Cotswolds
Among the most charming places to stay in all the Cotswolds is Barnsley House, in the village of Barnsley, outside Cirencester (tel. 01285/740000). A hotel was installed in a 17th-century manor house in the midst of some of England's most spectacular private gardens, the creation of a world expert on gardens, the late writer Rosemary Verey.
Shakespeare Country
In Stratford-upon-Avon, the newly reorganized Callands, 13-14 Meer St. (tel. 01789/269304), has become the restaurant of choice for most discerning visitors to the Bard's hometown. In the heart of town, near the Shakespeare Centre, Callands serves an eclectic and international cuisine with market-fresh ingredients.
In England's second city of Birmingham, the opening of the grand department store, Selfridges, Bullring Centre (tel. 0870/837-7377), has been heralded as part of the new Renaissance of this once tarnished industrial wasteland. This new fashion emporium is dramatic in concept, its architecture inspired by a dress.
Cambridge & East Anglia
A hotel of charm and grace has opened in Norfolk, the Victoria, Park Road (tel. 01328/711008), in the little town of Holkham, 39km (24 miles) northwest of Norwich. On the grounds of the coast-bordering Holkham Estate, the motif of the restored property has been characterized as a "manor house meets the Raj" decor, with furniture and accessories from the state of Rajasthan in north India.
Liverpool
In the city of Liverpool, Mendips, 251 Menlove Ave. (tel. 01517/427-7231), the childhood home of John Lennon, has been restored and opened to tours for the general public. Yoko Ono purchased the late 1950s property and turned it over to the National Trust. Lennon composed many of his early songs on the front porch of this modest abode.
Yorkshire & Northumbria
In the far northern city of Leeds, Quebecs, 9 Quebec St. (tel. 0113/244-8989), is part of the neo-Renaissance of this once industrially blighted city. An 1891 red-brick Victorian shell has been gutted with certain architectural features preserved and turned into a hotel of real charm and grace. Right in the center of the city, the hotel pays homage to the past while preserving much of the style of the Victorian era.
Wales
In Cardiff, the Hanover International Hotel & Club, Schooner Way, Atlantic Wharf, Cardiff Bay (tel. 029/2047-5000), has emerged as a solid runner-up hotel to the city's stalwart, the St. David's Hotel & Spa. In the heart of Cardiff's waterfront development, the restored, part-Victorian warehouse has already become something of a landmark, with its modern, cruise-liner-style architecture and dramatic maritime theme.