Perhaps the major development for all travelers since the last edition is the heightened concern for security. Greece has proven to be about as safe as any other place -- and indeed it is probably far safer than many places. During the Olympics year of 2004, Greece will be even more security conscious than ever. The price one pays for this, of course, involves a few concessions: arriving at airports well in advance of flight departures, protecting unexposed film from the more powerful x-ray machines that process checked baggage.
Speaking of the Olympics 2004, if you are only now thinking of making plans to attend events, it is probably getting a bit late to obtain tickets-at least for the more popular events. Those with a special interest in some of the less popular events might find tickets, but even these are now most likely part of "package deals" sold by travel agencies. Hotels in and around Athens, in fact, are also pretty much booked up by these same travel agencies. In any case, prices for hotels are to be raised extremely high-in all fairness, as happens in all Olympic cities. (Hotel prices in this article were accurate at press time but hikes of 50% to 300% for hotels in and around Athens are said to be planned for the period surrounding the games, while increases of 20% or more for hotels throughout Greece are rumored as hoteliers anticipate increased traffic from the August Olympics.) We would advise people not intent on seeing the 2004 Olympics to avoid Athens while the games are in session, August 13 though 29, and instead travel elsewhere in Greece, visiting Athens before or after. You might figure, too, that many of the thousands of people who will converge on Athens from all over the world will be traveling in the days immediately before and after the games.
Since the last edition, Greece has converted to the euro €. As the €/US$ exchange rate has fluctuated considerably, we give prices only in euros; we advise everyone to check the rate when on the scene.
Another change in Greece is in their phone numbers: all now have a 2 before the area/city code and a 0 at the end of same. The net effect is that every number dialed in Greece now must have 10 digits.
Greek hotels are only beginning to offer smoke-free hotel rooms and to provide access to the handicapped. We try to single out such, but Greece has a long way to go before it gets gold stars for either. Also, since November 2002, smoking has been banned in many public areas and restaurants are supposed to offer smoke-free areas, but the law is loosely enforced. If it matters, ask before sitting down in a restaurant.
Another major development is the use of online sites for making travel plans and reservations. All very well, but read the small print about cancellation policies: they can be pretty unforgiving!
Still another new development is the desire by travelers to maintain access to the Internet -- at last for e-mail. Increasing numbers of hotels are claiming internet access, but most travelers are probably better off leaving their laptops at home and going into one of the many Internet cafes now found throughout Greece: just make sure you are signed on with some service that allows you to get into your e-mail from a third party.
Oh yes, that other accoutrement of the modern traveler -- cellphones. Again, make sure your phone has the hardware and service that will work in Greece; otherwise it might be best to rent a phone in Greece.
Visitor Information
Since 2001, the Greek National Tourist Organization (GNTO, or EOT in its Greek-language acronym) has drastically cut back its operations. In North America, for instance, only the offices in New York City and Toronto remain open. The office in Athens remains open at 2 Amerikis (tel. 210/331-0562) but all other offices in Greece have been turned over to regional tourism "directorates." In most instances, these retain the same offices and phone numbers as the former GNTO; it remains to be seen whether these offices have the budgets for the services formerly provide by the GNTO.
Travel Within Greece
In recent years there have been numerous attempts to start airlines that could compete with Olympic with domestic flight. Most have fallen by the way, but one seems to be surviving -- Aegean Airlines, (tel. 801/11-20000; www.aegeanair.com) often referred to simply as Aegean Air. It offers a limited number of flights between major destinations and offers some choice when you are on the scene. Its main office in Athens is at 572 Leoforos Vouliagmenis (tel. 210/998-8300).
Several of the major Greek national tourist sites have taken to selling "combination tickets" that may represent some small discount over those bought separately. Such combinations include the Acropolis, agora, National Archaeological Museum, theaters, etc. of ancient Athens; Knossos and the Iraklion Archaeological Museum; Delphi site and museum. Visitors are advised to inquire about the possibilities.
The Aegean Islands
Completely renovated since 2000, the Chios Chandris Hotel (tel. 22710/44-401) at the far end of the waterfront of Chios Town, offers many of the amenities of a resort hotel -- including a pool -- with the convenience of walking-distance to the town's attractions.
Meanwhile, a new recommendation at Molivos, on the northeastern coast of Lesvos (Mitilini), is the Octopus (tel. 2330/71-332); actually one of the oldest restaurants along the harbor, it offers a no-nonsense ambience with an authentic island menu.
Athens
By the time that you visit Athens, The Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma Square (tel. 210/333-0000; www.grandebretagne.gr) and the Hilton Hotel, 46 Leoforos Vas. Sofias (tel. 210/728-1000; www.hilton.com) will both have reopened after complete renovations and redecoration. At press time, precise details on changes were not available, but the Grande Bretagne, formerly with no pool, now boasts two pools-while the Hilton has improved its outdoor pool.
If you haven't been to Athens for a few years, you'll be pleased to discover that Aigli (tel. 210/336-9363), the long-time favorite just off Syntagma Square in the National Gardens, is back beside the Zappion Building, serving gourmet meals and snacks. Aigli offers some compensation for the closing of another long-time Athenian favorite just off Syntagma Square: Zonar's, for decades the city's best known cafe.
Exploring Athens is easier than ever thanks to the new Metro system -- and pleasanter than ever thanks to the pedestrianized walks linking the major archaeological sites. If you stop in at the main Metro station in Syntagma Square, you can get a map of the system. The Greek National Tourist Office (EOT) at 2 Amerikis (www.greektourism.com) promises to have maps of the "Archaeological Park," which stretches from Hadrian's Gate past the Acropolis and Ancient Agora to the Kerameikos. As you explore Athens, on foot and by Metro, be sure to take in the two new museums in the Acropolis and Syntagma Metro stations, with displays of antiquities found during the Metro excavations.
Central Greece
Kalambaka, the stopping-off point for visiting the Monasteries of the Meteora, has a new museum: the Center of Contemporary Art, 38 Patriarchou Dimitriou (tel. 24320/22-346), which houses the extensive private collection of Leonidas Belsios. The contrast with the art work of the monasteries could hardly be greater, and travelers may enjoy the museum for just that reason.
In Ambelakia, the enchanting mountain-top village facing Mount Olympus, the Schwartz House (no phone), an 18th century mansion, has been undergoing restoration, making its elegant woodwork and frescoes even more handsome.
Crete
Greek hotels are constantly renovating and updating but one of the more impressive makeovers within the last couple of years is that of the Lato Hotel in Iraklion, 15 Epimenidou (tel. 2810/226-103). The lobby and dining room have not changed that much, but the decor and furniture of bedrooms are now strikingly stylish, bathrooms are state of the art, and several suites are quite grand.
The Cyclades
The Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira (tel. 22860/22-217; www.culture.gr) opened in 2000 and has several frescoes from the Minoan site of Akrotiri, as well as elegantly decorated pottery found there.
The world-class restaurant Selene, Fira (tel. 22860/24-395) now offers cooking classes where you can learn about local delicacies, learn to make local dishes, and then get to eat the results!
It's long been possible to explore Santorini's huge caldera, the bay left when the island's volcano exploded around 1450 B.C. on small boats. Now it is possible to explore what's under the surface, on a "Touristic Submarine."
The Dodecanese
Patmos (agn.hol.gr/hellas/dodecan/patmos.asp) is one of the better secrets of those in the know about Greek islands -- a place that offers both a restful retreat and stylish diversions. One of the nicer places that has recently upgraded itself is the Petra Hotel and Apartments at Grikos on the southern coast (tel. 22470/31-035). In particular, it now offers meals that make this family-operated hotel more memorable than ever.
The Ionian Islands
At the very crossroads of Corfu Town, the totally renovated -- virtually rebuilt -- Hotel Arcadion is now reopened at 44 Kapodistriou (tel. 26610/30-104; www.magicaljourneys.com/Corfu). It should appeal to all who prefer to stay at the heart of an historic city and also appreciate up-to-date facilities (including computer dataports in each bedroom).
Perhaps not high on everyone's list of things to do while in Greece, a day excursion to Albania might appeal to someone who's "been there, done that." The Petrakis Line, 9 Venizelou, Corfu town (tel. 26610/31-649,) offers several 1-day excursions a week in high season.
Northern Greece
There are two new boutique" hotels in Thessaloniki: the 44-unit Andromeda, 5 Komminion (tel. 2310/373-700; click here) just off Aristotle Square, is every bit as luxurious and welcoming as one would expect of the owners of the Andromeda in Athens. The 16-unit Capsis Bristol, 2 Oplopiou & Katouni (tel. 2310/506-500; www.capsishotel.gr) in the Ladadika district, is decorated with antiques and paintings.
Displays at the new Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki, 13 Ayios Mina (tel. 2310/250-406; www.science.co.il/Jewish-Museums.asp) tell the story of what was for centuries one of the city's most influential groups. Of the 60,000 Jews living here when World War II began, only 1,800 survived deportation and the death camps.
First Athens had one and now Thessaloniki does: the city's Concert Hall, Megaron Mousikis, 25 Martiou & Paralia (tel. 2310/895-800; www.tch.gr) opened in 2001 and has a full program of concerts.
The Peloponnese
By the time that you visit Greece, the new Rio-Antirio bridge, scheduled to be completed by the end of 2004, may be open. The bridge will replace the ferry service across the Gulf of Corinth and cut as much as an hour off traveler's journeys between Central Greece and the Peloponnese. You can follow progress on the bridge at www.gefyra.gr.
Patras, (tel. 0030/2610-225-461; solar@otenet.gr) the largest port in the Peloponnese, has a new hotel, the first "boutique" hotel in that city. The 14-unit Primarolia Art Hotel, 33 Othonos and Amalias (tel. 2610/624-900) has already made it into Odyssey magazine's list of the best hotels in Greece for its elegant rooms and the art on display throughout the hotel.
There's another very welcome new hotel in the Peloponnese: For years, Andritsena, the delightful village near the Temple of Bassae, has been years served by only one desultory hotel. Now the 5-unit Epikourias Apollon, the Plateia (tel. 26260/22-840), under efficient and caring family management, makes it a pleasure to spend the night in this perfect mountain village.
Theater buffs will want to take in the new Epidaurus Festival Museum, (www.helsun.gr/sp3.asp) near the entrance to the site, usually open on performance days. There are displays of costumes, masks, theatrical memorabilia, and entrance is free.
The Saronic Gulf Islands
At press time, both Minoan Flying Dolphins and Ceres Flying Dolphins had been absorbed by Hellas Flying Dolphins, (tel. 210/41-99-100; www.dolphins.gr)which serves the Saronic Gulf Islands. There may be -- there almost certainly will be -- changes in nomenclature and service by the time you arrive, so do double-check all island boat information before you travel. And, it is a good idea to keep in mind that the recent proliferation of high speed flying dolphin service to these islands has made it increasingly imperative to have both transportation and hotel reservations in summer. A couple of websites are www.saronicnet.com and www.magicaljourneys.com.
The Sporades
On Skopelos, not a new shop but a new find for us is Ploumisti, midway along the Paralia (tel. 24240/22-059; kalaph-skp@skt.forthnet.gr); it sells beautiful Greek rugs, blankets, jewelry, pottery and crafts, and its friendly proprietors, Voula and Kostas Kalafatis, are full of helpful information for visitors, especially about the rembetiko music scene.