Planning Your Trip to Greece
By now most people are aware of the decline of the U.S. dollar in relation to the euro, Greece's currency. The decline has taken place so rapidly that even the latest edition of Frommer's Greece has not been able to keep up with it. As to how this translates into the cost of your travels in Greece, there is no denying that it has added that 15% to the costs of most items since our last edition. And yes, this means that some prices will seem a bit steep. But the fact remains that most prices, including restaurant meals, are still relatively reasonable, especially if compared to prices in most other European nations these days.
Over the years, a number of startup airlines have announced new services in Greece yet when it comes to the crunch, they often can't deliver, so that for most people, Olympic Airlines (www.olympicairlines.com), the old standby, and the more recent Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com), are the two that provide the most options. In 2007, a third competitor appeared on the scene: Airsea Lines (www.airsealines.com), promising to provide hydroplane service between selected points. A still newer airline is Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr), which flies small 18-passenger planes out of Crete (most from Iraklion, some from Chania) to several islands around the Aegean (including Rhodes, Santorini and Mykonos).
As Greece is requiring more and more electricity to meet the demands of touristic facilities, not to mention its own domestic needs, it is beginning to turn to the one of the oldest sources of energy: wind power. Wind farms are beginning to appear on the landscape throughout Greece. In a country that is so dependent on imported sources of energy, wind turbines seem at least a temporary necessity.
Cruising the Greek Islands
Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou's EasyCruise (www.easycruise.com) continues to add new routes to its bargain priced Greek island cruises. Thompson Cruises (www.thomson.co.uk/cruise) has added a one-week cruise starting in may 2008 on its liner the Calypso. What's unusual here is that while most Greek cruises begin and end in Athens's port of Piraeus, this one begins and ends in Thessaloniki, the largest city in Northern Greece. Ports of call include popular favorites Heraklion in Crete, Santorini and Mykonos in the Cyclades, the island of Rhodes in the Dodekanese and Kusadasi (in Turkey).
Settling into Athens
In renaissance Athens, even tourist favorite Plaka is going through its own revival and reinvention as young entrepreneurs are buying up or renting spaces in beautiful neo-classical buildings to offer something funkier and different than the usual postcard and T-shirt fare. Designer homes, accessory specialty stores, funky furniture and design stores, independent record label stores, galleries, atelier, specialized pastry shops and funky performance spaces are amongst the many newcomers in this always charming and beautiful neighborhood.
Hotel aficionados will be thrilled to know that the W hotel chain just opened its first Greek property (and it's a stunner!) at coastal Astir Palace (www.astir-palace.com).
Owner-chef of the excellent and legendary seafood restaurant Varoulko (www.varoulko.gr.com) Lefteris Lazarou has just opened his new restaurant Parea (Group of Friends) inside the Eridanus Hotel in urban-chic Gazi (www.eridanus.gr).
Celebrated chef Aris Tsanaklides has opened a new restaurant in beautiful Thissio that has become the talk of the town. Named simply Kuzina (Kitchen), it serves forgotten traditional dishes which are recreated by the famous chef into new and exciting fare. Make sure to try the lobster tail with Greek noodles (tel. 210/324-0133).
Another very successful mezedopoleio from northern Athens has just opened a new branch smack in the center of downtown: Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (The Cricket and The Ant). Excellent house cheese pies, shrimp with ouzo and cream, crispy golden-tomato fritters, baked onions stuffed with smoked pork and spinach and excellent barrel wine, all at very affordable prices (tel. 210/324-7607).
On very popular Persefonis Street, next to the ultra successful Mamakas restaurant are two new tavernas competing for your attention. Both are quite excellent and reasonably priced; Butcher Shop (tel. 210/3413-440) is for meat lovers and Sardelles (Sardines) for seafood lovers (tel. 210/347-8050).
Exploring Athens
In October 2007, the Greek Archaeological Service began to winch, lift, and lower 330 artifacts from the Acropolis Museum (tel. 210/321-0219) on the Acropolis to The New Acropolis Museum at the foot of the Acropolis. The museum is slated to be partially open in 2008 and fully open in 2009. As not uncommon in Greece, controversy has plagued the museum: initial excavations for its foundations uncovered a swathe of Byzantine Athens which had to be documented before work could continue. Now, many preservationists are incensed that two important recent architectural monuments near the new museum are threatened. Museum authorities wish to tear down both a handsome art deco mansion and its neighbor, the neoclassical building owned by Vangelis Papathanassiou. Why tear down the buildings? Because the two venerable buildings interfere with the view of the Acropolis from the new museum. Papathanassiou is well-known in Greece as the composer of the score of "Chariots of Fire," the film on the 1924 Olympics and has organized protest at what some consider modern vandalism. The museum, designed by Swiss-American architect Bernard Tschumi was built at a cost of some $190 million for the express artistic and political purpose of welcoming home the Parthenon marbles (the Elgin Marbles) now in the British Museum in London.
In October 2007, work began on the oft-delayed face lift of Monastiraki Square. The published architect's plans suggest that the new square may have all the charm of Omonia Square after its make-over: lots of concrete, a few statues, the occasional tree, and a major repression of clutter, bustle, and life.
Until recently, visitors were only able to view the ancient Olympic Stadium, Panathenaic Stadium, from outside its gates. The stadium, known to Greeks as Kallimarmaro (Beautiful Marble), was first built in 330 BC, rebuilt for the first modern Olympics in 1896, and meticulously restored for the 2004 Olympics. As of September 2007, the Panathenaic Stadium opened its gates to all.
For a number of years, the Iliou Melathron, the home of famous archaeologist Heinrich Schliemman -- the excavator of Troy and Mycenae -- has served as the Numismatic Museum (tel. 210/364-3774). Recently, the house just off Syntagma Square on Panepistimiou Ave. has been restored to its late-19th century glory. Painted walls and ceilings have been restored and many of the original 24 statues that decorated the house's cornice are back in place. The garden has been replanted and a café is planned. Another new museum café is now open at the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art (22 Agios Asomaton, Psirri; tel. 210/325-1311; www.benaki.gr). The rooftop view toward the Kerameikos and Acropolis is spectacular and the fresh orange juice and coffee are excellent.
The completion of the renovation of the historic Army Pension Fund Building (also used as the Nazi headquarters during WWII) has led to the stunning CityLink complex, which covers an entire city block. One of the most impressive results of this renovation has been the Stoa Spyromilliou (Spyromilliou Arcade), which has become one of the city's most walked through pedestrian stoas, just off pedestrian Voukourestiou, and has brought new life to the area. Clemente VII (tel. 210/321-9340) has become a society watering hole and the excellent Pasaji restaurant (tel. 210/322-0714) is packed with locals and tourists. The buildings' arcades and hallways link city streets in exciting new ways and its winding staircases, sidewalk benches and art deco ceilings have been perfectly restored and bring back a touch of grand and elegant early 20th-century Athens in a very modern and interesting way.
The recently refurbished Flisvos Yacht Marina (www.flisvosmarina.com) has been a tremendous success and a wonderful place for a stroll by the sea, shopping, dining or enjoying a drink. The battleship Averoff (www.bsaverof.com), which played a decisive role in the Balkan War and both World Wars, has been restored and turned into a museum. It is berthed next to a stunning handmade replica of a 2,500-year-old Greek warship, powered by 170 oarsmen.
The Apple Store has recently opened a branch in downtown Athens (32 Akadimias. tel. 210/364-1211; www.applestore.gr). Have a few hours to kill at the airport before your flight? Why not shop? The new Factory Outlet at the Athens Airport Retail Park (tel. 210/354-1800) has been a massive success. With over 400 brands of discounted clothes and accessories in a large hangar-like building, it is shopping heaven for all. Just be careful not to get too carried away and miss your flight!
The Saronic Gulf Islands
The island of Spetses has a new chic luxury resort, the Xenon Estate (www.xenonestate.gr) in Kokkinaria, northwest Spetses. At present, there are three villas with such goodies as orthopedic coconut bark mattresses and LCD TVs. The three villas share a pool and that raises my only quibble: if we're talking luxury, do you really want to share one pool with the other two villas and have to hope that your neighbors are congenial?
In Greek resort lingo, "villa" does not always mean a separate unit. On Hydra, for example, the very comfortable Erato Villas (www.hydraerato.com) at Plakes, Vlychos, has two units in a traditionally-built stone house with an extensive garden near an almost-private beach. "Athena" has three bedrooms and three baths, while "Fivos" has two bedrooms and two baths. The décor is simple, with tile floors, wood beamed ceilings, and views of the surrounding countryside and sea. This would be a nice place for several families to have a self-catering holiday (with maid service). You can hire a car to get back and forth to tavernas and the main town, or take water taxis and walk.
The Peloponnese
The Peloponnese was ravaged by severe fires during the summer of 2007. The site and museum of ancient Olympia were seriously threatened. The trees on the Hill of Kronos, above the ancient site, burnt to the ground and the ancient stadium itself suffered some damage. Work continues on reforesting the hill, to bring back Olympia's magical green groves. Also, the hill is being shored up to prevent landslides onto the ancient site during the winter rainy season.
Crete
As the high season was winding down in 2007, The Archaeological Museum of Iraklion (tel. 2810/226-092), home of the world's premier collection of Minoan and early Cretan art, closed down for major renovations and enlargement. It was scheduled to be reopened in time for the tourist season of 2008. In the meantime, the museum has done something extremely visitor friendly: in a new wing, it has set up a temporary exhibit that includes virtually every one of the highlights of the collectionÂ?in effect, the best of the museum's displays. Perhaps the only major gap is that so few of the original frescoes can be displayed. The limitations of the space available can make it extremely crowded, so more than ever, if you have a choice, either go very early or very late in the day. But in any case, go!
In recent years increasing numbers of Greek hotels have discovered the appeal of offering drinking and dining facilities on their rooftops where you can enjoy both the al fresco atmosphere and often a superb view. Now there is a rooftop restaurant of the Lato Boutique Hotel in Iraklion (tel. 2810/228-103; www.lato.gr).
The Ionian Islands
If you'd like to help save the endangered loggerhead sea turtles, you can work with the Sea Life Center scientists and volunteers at Gerakas Bay on the Ionian island of Zakynthos. You can participate in the program from 2 to 12 weeks; for information on prices and schedules visit Global Vision International (www.gvi.co.uk).
If you like to windsurf and want to become a qualified windsurfing instructor, contact Flying Fish (www.flyingfishonline.com). This British company turns novices into RYA Level 1 windsurfing instructors in six weeks and says it has found jobs for 95% of its graduates. The school is based on the Ionian island of Lefkas.
Highlights of Northern Greece: Thessaloniki, Mount Athos & the Philip and Alexander Sites
A new restaurant and a new hotel are causing quite a buzz in Greece's Second City, Thessaloniki. The restaurant, near Thessaloniki's iconic White Tower, is Entryfish (5 Pavlou Mela; tel. 2310/230-031). The ambiance is casual, with marble-topped tables, but the seafood is seriousÂ?and very fresh. If you like eel, this is the place to try some. If you have trouble deciding between pasta and seafood, don't despair: there are lots of pasta and seafood dishes. A lot of Thessaloniki hotels cater to businessmen more interested in conference rooms and convenience than comfort, but the cozy 49-room Daios (www.daioshotels.com), near the White Tower and the Thermaic Gulf, has the ambiance of a boutique hotel.
The Ministry of Culture announced in October 2007 that Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great is scheduled to get a new museum in 2008. The museum will commemorate the life of the charismatic world-conqueror and the history of Macedonia and the Macedonians. Very little in Greece is not political, and this is no exception. The Ministry of Culture announcement stressed that a fifth-century curse tablet in Doric, an ancient Greek dialect, will be displayed in the museum, proving that the Macedonians spoke Greek. Other scholars would suggest that the curse tablet proves that someone speaking Doric Greek left the tablet at Pella.
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