American tourists can now stay 3 months in Hong Kong without a visa, up from the prior 1-month limit.
The departure tax at the Hong Kong International Airport has increased from HK$50 (US$6.50) to HK$80 (US$10), but it's generally already in the price of your plane ticket.
Note, too, that since the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, American airlines have suspended check-in services at Hong Kong Station and Kowloon Station.
Getting to Know Hong Kong
All that construction you see on the tip of Kowloon, along Salisbury Road, is in preparation for the new East Tsim Sha Tsui Station, which will finally provide a convenient link between the MTR subway system and the KCR Kowloon-Canton railway with service to the New Territories and China. Until its completion in 2004, travelers must still board the KCR in Hung Hom or Kowloon Tong Station. At the end of 2003, a new KCR West Rail will open linking Kowloon with the west part of the New Territories.
The Hong Kong Tourist Board (HKTB) is an excellent source for tourist information. Before coming, check out their website at www.discoverhongkong.com.
Where to Stay
The biggest buzz in Hong Kong hotel news is the transformation of the long-revered Regent into the Hotel InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 800/327-0200 in the U.S. and Canada). Hotel staff remains the same, but changes include new executive floors, an expansion of the health spa, the installation of wireless broadband that will allow guests to access the Internet even from poolside, and the closing of its renowned restaurant Plume. Yü is still there, while Cantonese restaurant Lai Ching Heen changed its name to Yan Toh Heen.
Sadly, the Furama Hotel, with its revolving restaurant and great location, has closed, as has the New Astor.
A welcome addition to the hotel scene, however, is the Best Western Rosedale on the Park, 8 Shelter St., Causeway Bay (tel. 800/528-1234), a high-tech boutique hotel sure to appeal to budget-conscious business travelers.
Where to Dine
Hong Kong can't seem to escape outbreaks of Avian flu, though no deaths have occurred since the first epidemic in 1997, which resulted in the culling of all the territory's poultry. Hypochondriacs who fear that the strict preventative measures now in place could fail might want to stick with imported seafood.
The Peak Café has a new owner, a new international menu, and a new name, The Peak Lookout, 121 Peak Rd., Victoria Peak (tel. 852/2849 1000). The verdict is still out on whether the reincarnation will continue to woo crowds, but with its sublime outdoor terrace, the odds are in its favor.
On the waterfront, Central's City Hall Chinese Restaurant has closed and is sorely missed by budget diners who flocked there for inexpensive dim sum and great harbor views. Until something takes its place, try the almost-as-good Serenade Chinese Restaurant, across the harbor in the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 852/2722 0932).
Chic new restaurants are popping up all over, but Aqua, 49 Hollywood Rd., Central (tel. 852/2545 9889), is one of the most successful, with a talented chef who creates his own fusion cuisine combining ingredients from throughout Asia.
In Stanley, check out the newly renovated Murray House for its restaurants offering alfresco dining with views of the sea, including Chilli N Spice, Stanley Plaza (tel. 852/2899 0147), with its Thai and Southeast Asian dishes.
Exploring Hong Kong
A new museum pass, good for 1 week, allows admission to the Hong Kong Museum of Art, Hong Kong Museum of History, Hong Kong Space Museum, Hong Kong Science Museum, and Hong Kong Heritage Museum for HK$30 ($3.90).
A new attraction, Madame Tussaud's, has opened on the Peak in the Peak Tower (tel. 852/3128 8288).
Meanwhile, several tours, including 1-hour Star Ferry tours and tram tours, have ceased operation.
On the plus side, the Meet the People program offered by the Hong Kong Tourist Board continues to provide free tours, seminars, and lectures on traditional Hong Kong, with a new series beginning in March 2003.
Ocean Park, Aberdeen (tel. 852/2552 0291), has turned Middle Kingdom into a restaurant, but the amusement park's future remains questionable once Hong Kong Disney opens in 2005.
Hong Kong After Dark
You could lose sleep trying to keep up with Hong Kong's ever-expanding nightlife scene, but good starts include Agave, 33 D'Aguilar St., Central (tel. 852/2521 2010), famous for its tequila, and Alibi Bar and Brasserie, 73 Wyndham St., Central (tel. 852/2167 1676), the place for the in crowd.
For dancing, head to C Club, 30-32 D'Aguilar, Central (tel. 852/2526 1139), which packs 'em in with underground and noncommercial sounds created by international and house DJs, or to Curve, 2 Arbuthnot Rd., Central (tel. 852/2523 0998), Hong Kong's gay bar/disco of the moment but open to all persuasions.
Trying to keep up by revamping their image is JJ's in the Grand Hyatt Hotel, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai (tel. 852/2588 1234, ext. 7323), which now offers a supper club featuring contemporary Latin music, tapas, enough rum varieties to keep things rolling, and Brazilian bartenders.
Likewise, Club 97, 9 Lan Kwai Fong, Central (tel. 852/2810 9333), the granddaddy of Hong Kong discos, has transformed into a sophisticated cocktail lounge, but its youthfulness shines through in weekly gay happy hours complete with drag shows and Sunday reggae nights.
Macau
Construction and land reclamation continues on Macau. One obvious addition to the Macau skyline is the Macau Tower, Lago Sai Van (tel. 853/933339), with its convention center, 730-foot-high observatory, and, my favorite part of the tower, the 360 Café (tel. 853/9888660), which offers buffet meals with a view. For thrill seekers, plans are in the works for tours outside on the tower ramparts.