It's still boom time in India, with new malls opening almost weekly in urban centres around the country -- best avoided of course, unless you wish to see first-hand what the country's growing middle classes are spending their money on. A more pleasant consequence of India's booming economy is the ongoing improvement in many of India's national highways and roads connecting key places -- one of the benefits of massive infrastructural development projects. If the driving culture also improves, road travel between cities in India may yet become a real pleasure!
India was hit by several tragedies in October 2005: a massive earthquake in the northwest -- devastating to locals, but far from the tourist track -- and multiple, simultaneous bombings in Delhi's crowded markets on October 29; a grave reminder that whether it's London, New York or Delhi, large cities are all at a risk to random terrorist attacks.
Note that toll free numbers in the country that previously began with 1600 will change to 1800 during 2006. Both services will be available until mid-April, after which they will be available as 1800 only.
Getting There
The past few months have seen a slew of new low-cost airlines launched in India. Besides Air Deccan, airlines that have begun operations are Spice Jet, GoAir and Paramount Airways. One obvious benefit of the increased competition is that many of them don't charge foreigners the higher dollar fare but offer the low fares initially designed to attract local custom. It also means that cheaper fares are often easily available on busy sectors like the Mumbai-Delhi route.
The best domestic carrier is still the rapidly expanding Jet Airways, who bought out India's second largest domestic airline Sahara Airlines in January 2006. Relative newcomer Kingfisher Airlines is offering stiff competition, with a fast-growing reputation for excellent service and new routes being added every few weeks. Meanwhile Indian Airlines has become Indian, with a new logo and new aircraft, but sadly service standards have changed little and remain low.
The good news from Mumbai is that you can finally look forward to a decent domestic airport, with the opening of Mumbai's brand new Terminal 1B. The new domestic terminals, opening in a phased manner, are a far-cry from the ugly, disorganised, structure and facilities that have existed for so long, which you sadly will continue to encounter at Mumbai's drab international airport.
During December and January Delhi experienced one of its worst fog seasons and air traffic was badly disrupted -- on several days no departures took place until 2pm in the afternoon, severely hampering the plans and schedules of many tourists. The airport remains ill-equipped to handle waiting crowds, so be sure to pack some basic refreshments for the possibility of a long wait.
West Coast
For a leisurely travel option from Mumbai to Goa, Kochi and Lakshadweep, Star Cruises' Superstar Libra cruise liner now travels up and down the West Coast from Mumbai. This is an interesting and fun way to travel to Goa, especially if you have kids -- children are kept well entertained on these trips. But if you're looking for a peaceful, quiet cruise and spaciousness, give this a miss. Once in Goa, visit the recently restored Solar Souto Maior -- a 16th century Portuguese palacio in Old Goa and a lovely place to visit on your day off from sun and sea.
More and more private homes and estates in Kerala are opening their doors to visitors for home stays and a wonderful new option is the Olavipe Homestay (www.olavipe.com). Just one-hour from Kochi, the 100 year-old home and superb hospitality of the Tharakans alone is worth including a trip to Kerala in your itinerary.
Unfortunately, we've had some unfavourable reports from recent visitors to Tranquil, the homestay resort listed in our "Best of" section. Make sure you check all costs upfront and that the included sightseeing involves more than you being dumped into a car and packed off to a destination without a guide or escort. And continue to keep us informed of your experiences!
East Coast
Pondicherry, for many the most popular stop on India's East Coast, has yet another charming address, a 30-room luxury hotel with three restaurants, including a rooftop barbecue and grill. The Promenade (www.sarovar.com) lies on a seafront boulevard in the French Quarter, near the lighthouse; if you are staying there, a sea-facing room is a must.
Delhi
Rising from the banks of the Yamuna river in east Delhi is the Akshardham temple complex, Delhi's latest landmark. The main temple -- built, like so many of Delhi's monuments, in pink sandstone and white marble -- sits on the shoulders of 148 stone elephants, and is patterned like its namesake in Gujarat. Besides the obvious religious significance the complex includes a shopping complex and an IMAX theatre!
Though some routes on Delhi's new Metro rail have been in existence for a couple of years, visitors to the city will like the brand new link from Connaught Place to Karol Bagh; a quick, efficient and safe way of getting around instead of braving Delhi's road traffic and pollution.
Rajasthan
A huge collective sigh of relief must have coursed through Udaipur's hospitality industry with the onset of last year's heavy monsoon season, which finally filled the parched Lake Pichola. Good timing for the Taj's Lake Palace hotel, which has also recently been restored and refurbished. Expect steadied room rates from 2005 to go soaring unless another drought in 2006 affects lake levels again. And visitors to the luxurious Aman-i-khas in Ranthambhore will be pleased to hear that it now boasts a step well (bawadi), a 12 x 12m pool lined with natural sandstone where guests can cool off after a hot drive in the jungle, and sun themselves on the sandstone terrace.
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