As it has been for much of the world, 2007 was an economic rollercoaster in Ireland. Tourism figures stayed strong, but fears for the future grew as the U.S. economy faltered and the dollar remained very weak against the euro and the British pound sterling. As house prices plummeted 10 percent in Dublin, and more than 5 percent throughout the rest of the country, Ireland had economic worries of its own, of course, but overall the Irish economy seemed fairly stable. It was the spectre of a future world in which U.S. travellers tightened their belts and tucked their passports away that worried the Irish tourism industry. Still, it hasn't happened yet, and so the tourism industry rumbled on, expensive hotels and restaurants thrived, and entrance prices rose yet again at the country's most popular sights.
Planning Your Trip
For decades, flights to Ireland from North America were forced by international agreement to land at Shannon Airport (www.shannonairport.com), even when most of the passengers were really heading to Dublin. In 2007, though, the approval of the "Open Skies Agreement" meant that those old rules were dropped, and some feared this meant the end of plucky little Shannon Airport. Both American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Air Canada (www.aircanada.com) announced that they would cut back or end flights to Shannon, and even the Irish airline Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) dropped its regular flights to Shannon from London's Heathrow airport. Those moves were worrying enough to have regional tourism authorities spending millions of dollars marketing the usefulness of the so-called "Shannon Gateway." Still, though, it's far too early to write Shannon off. American and Air Canada never had many flights to Shannon, and in recent years the British budget airline, Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), has made Shannon a hub.
In 2007 travel figures through Shannon Airport hit record figures (in excess of 3 million people passed through the airport that year), so the airport did not appear to be in any danger of disappearing. However, projections for the future are not so optimistic -- some figures show that the number of flights to Shannon Airport from the U.S. could drop by 40 percent throughout 2008, while the number of flights to Dublin could increase substantially. Still, many people traveling to the popular scenic west coast of Ireland find it more convenient to fly direct to Shannon. So it seems hard to believe the airport's future is in doubt. Time will tell.
All of the speed limit signs in the Republic of Ireland are now fully metric. Previously some gave mileage as well as metric distances, but now all have gone the European route. This can cause confusion if you've been driving in the north of Ireland, which, as part of the U.K., still keeps its speed limit and distance signs in miles. Don't get confused or you could find yourself hurtling along at 90 mph when the speed limit is in kilometers per hour.
Dublin
The first phase of Dublin Airport's (www.dublinairport.com) expansion has now opened, to the relief of travellers who have had the misfortune to arrive in Dublin during one of the airports busy times, and found themselves caught in a crush. The new Pier D will be fully open by the end of 2008, with another terminal to follow in 2009. The government has also fast-tracked approval for improvements to the rail and road infrastructure linking the airport to the city in an effort to alleviate traffic congestion around the airport. By the time all the construction is finished, it is expected that the airport will see as many as 30 million passengers pass through its terminals each year.
In order for that to be viable, though, the government acknowledged that certain problems will have to be addressed, including the congestion on the M50 -- the key route to and from the airport, and really, the de facto gateway to Ireland. Plans are also underway to connect the airport to the city center by rail, which could make a tremendous difference for those who come to Ireland solely to visit Dublin.
Galway City
The entertaining and talented group known as Siamsa in Galway (or Siamsa na Gaillimhe) -- which worked to preserve and promote traditional Irish music, theater, and dance -- has announced it's closing in 2008, and many believe that it may not reopen. Although touristy, its delightful blend of traditional Irish music, clothes, dance and folk drama was a window into the country's cultural heritage. The similarly named Siamsa Tire in Tralee, though, remains open and busy.
Northern Ireland
Hotels in the north of Ireland are booming, and occupancy rates shot up 17 percent in the fall of 2007 over the same time period in 2006. New hotels -- such as the elegant Merchant (www.themerchanthotel.com) -- are giving travellers elegant places to stay, as they take in the north's more laidback tourist scene.
Many travellers are drawn to the region by its unspoiled atmosphere, not yet over-run by tour groups. Others are attracted by its scenic natural beauty: the Giant's Causeway is one of the world's great natural sights.
Increasingly travellers are emboldened to head north as its peace treaty holds, and the political situation takes on an increasing air of stability. Many are so-called "political tourists," who come to photograph the strident wall murals. Even the July "Orangemen" marches through the city -- which once sparked riots -- are increasingly attracting international tourists who want to see the banners and watch the parades. (The Orange marches mark the anniversary of the Battle of the Boyne in 1690, when the Protestant King William defeated the Catholic King James.) In previous years, even the locals abandoned the cities for marching week, and all shops and restaurants closed. But that's increasingly not the case.
Some hotels, such as the Malmaison Hotel (tel. 028/9022-0200), decorate their walls with photos of the city's notorious wall murals, and help to arrange Black cab tours for them of the areas in west Belfast where the troubles took place.
In 2007, the British Army pulled out of Northern Ireland after 38 years, which many see as a sign that peace here may have some permanence. As if to show that it, too, can relax a bit, Belfast has opened a giant Ferris wheel -- nearly 200 feet high -- that you can ride to see the sights from above. The Belfast Wheel (tel. 028/9031-0607) -- similar to the London Eye -- charges £6 ($12) a ticket, and is expected to be open throughout 2008.
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