Since 2000, when the peace process faltered, millions of tourists have been waiting to visit Israel. But there are times, especially at the Jewish and Christian holidays, when the country is filled with visitors. At press time, tourism to Israel, Sinai and Jordan is running well above the low point in 2001-2002, but below the pre-2000 levels. This means there are bargains everywhere, and there won't be hordes pressing on every major tourism site.
Another pleasant surprise: Israel is one of the few western countries where the local currency -- the shekel -- has fallen in tandem with the US dollar. For things like meals, taxis, museum entrance fees, or even a can of cola, American visitors will not be hit with the sticker shock they find in Europe, and travelers from the UK and Europe will be even happier with the prices.
Jerusalem
Despite the tumultuous political situation, tourism in Jerusalem is thriving. The sprawling outdoor Model of Jerusalem in the Late Second Temple Period is a fascinating new attraction drawing crowds at the Israel Museum (www.imj.org.il). Created in the 1960s by archeologist Michael Avi-Yonah, this detailed model has been constantly updated according to new archeological discoveries, and is a very helpful tool for understanding what ancient Jerusalem looked like.
After being closed for three years, The Temple Mount or Haram Es Sharif, which houses the Dome of the Rock and the El Aqsa Mosque reopened to non-Muslim visitors and tourists in late 2004. Visiting hours are generally Sundays through Thursdays, 9am to 11am, but are subject to change.
For a dining experience with ambience try 1868 Café (34 Bethlehem Rd.;tel. 02/672-5336), a new kosher dairy restaurant (also serving fish) affiliated with the pricy and upscale 1868 meat restaurant (10 King David St.; tel. 02/622-2312). The café is set in a charming old stone bungalow from British Mandate times, and is much less expensive than its carnivorous relative. Cavalier (1 Ben Sira St.; tel. 02/624-2945) is a small restaurant hidden in a remote alleyway that serves elegant fare in contemporary French style. Cacao at the Cinematheque (tel. 02/671-0632), an informal restaurant overlooking the Hinnom Valley, is currently undergoing construction, and should reopen by July 2007.
For over half a century, Ophir Jewelry (38 Jaffa Rd.; www.ophir-jewelry.com), was tucked under a staircase at the back of a remote Jaffa Road building. Now this treasure chest of a store has expanded into a large, elegant showroom that is packed with moderately priced hand-designed creations.
Tel Aviv
Atlas Hotels, a moderately-priced Israeli hotel chain, has completely refurbished its Center Hotel (tel. 03/526-6100) at Dizengoff Square, restoring the building's original 1930s Bauhaus design. Atlas Hotels is also renovating its popular boutique hotel, Melody Hotel (220 Ha-Yarkon St.; tel. 03.527-7711), which is scheduled to reopen by June 2007.
Like many hotels in Israel, the Dan Panorama Tel Aviv (10 Kaufman St.;tel. 03/519-0190) has refurbished its upper price range guestrooms. For those on a budget, Dizengoff Street Apartments (89 Dizengoff St.; tel. 03/524-1151; www.hotel-apt.com/dsa) offers a variety of rooms and suites with kitchenettes for one to five people.
Falafel is undoubtedly Tel Aviv's fast food of choice, and although you'll find it everywhere, there are alternatives. Contrary to popular belief, grilled chicken schnitzel and fresh salad served in pita bread (not falafel) is the real hamburger of Israel. One of the best schnitzel sandwich stands in town is a nameless little spot next to a small branch post office on Ha-Yarkon Street near Nes Ziona Street. A great antidote to falafel burn-out!
Agadir Burger Bar (tel. 03/510-4442) near Nahlat Binyamin Pedestrian Mall is as close to (non-kosher) hamburger heaven as you'll come in the Big Orange, For a burger with a view (also non-kosher), try Mike's Place (86 Herbert Samuel Esplanade; www.mikesplacebars.com) where a dedicated staff of Israeli-Americans hand grind sirloin burgers on the spot , then grill the meat on charcoal.
American-style restaurants are surfacing across Israel. In 2004, the American chicken wing debuted in Tel Aviv at Wings and Chips (167 Ben Yehuda St.). And, this summer, Hooters (www.hooters.com) is even planning to open its first branch in Tel Aviv.
Haifa
Placid, easy-going Haifa was unexpectedly hit by hundreds of Katyusha rockets during the month-long Lebanon War in the summer of 2006, but you'd never know it to see the city six months later. Everything is up and functioning again, and the city, with its magnificent vistas and mixed Israeli Arab and Jewish population, remains a fascinating metropolis to explore.
The Haifa Tourist Board Visitor's Center (48 Ben Gurion Blvd.; tel. 04/853-5606; www.tour-haifa.co.il) has moved to the Ben Gurion Promenade complex in the German Colony.
For a city not famous for its restaurants, Hanamal 24 (24 Hanamal St.; tel. 04/862-8899) is a rare standout. Tucked away in an ugly area bounded by the port and the railroad tracks, this restaurant is a luxury dining hideaway with an exciting and inventive Mediterranean menu.
The Galilee
The greenest and most beautiful part of Israel suffered from the Katyusha rockets during the summer of 2006. Fires ripped through the richly forested areas close to the Lebanese border, but reforestation projects are already underway. It will take decades for the trees to regain their former glory, but the region is still magnificent.
Although the area's tourism infrastructure has mostly been repaired, several sites are still suffering. The Hacienda Forestview Hotel (tel. 04/957-2255; www.shalomplaza.co.il) outside Ma'alot Tarshisha in the Western Galilee countryside is still being repaired at press time (it was hit by seven Katyushas during the Lebanon War), but should reopen by the spring of 2007.
Nazareth
The Fauzi Azar Inn (Old City, Nazareth Center; tel. 04/602-0469) is a new guest house set in a converted old stone Nazareth mansion.
Tiberias
Sheraton Moriah Tiberias (www.sheraton.com), one of the best mega hotel choices in Tiberias, has completed a massive renovation of 170 of its 258 rooms, and has added a luxurious new spa.
Caesarea
For the first time in almost 2,000 years, a kosher restaurant is calling Caesarea home. Set among Caesarea's historic ruins, Aresto (tel. 04/636-3456) serves fresh salads, pastas, and fish, and is the very first kosher restaurant in the area.
West Bank
The West Bank -- including Bethlehem, Jericho, Hebron, and Nablus -- is closed to Israeli visitors, and most western governments have advised their citizens not to visit the area until the political situation improves. Those wishing to visit the site of Jesus' birth in Bethlehem should consider joining an escorted tour. Check with the Christian Information Center (02/627-2692) for more information.
Talk with fellow Frommer's travelers on our Israel Message Boards.