In the vanguard of world tourism, Italy is always changing, but, like the city of Rome itself, the country remains eternal. Here are some of the latest developments.
Rome
Management opened Glass, Vicolo del Cinque 58 (tel. 06-58335903), in "an attempt to give Trastevere back to the Romans." Lots of glass (including the floors) gives this place a modernist aura, but its food is strictly Roman with many time-tested old favorites not seen on menus in a long timeÂ?such as the pigeon in a berry sauce encased in chicory pie.
Casina Valadier, Villa Borghese, Piazza Bucarest (tel. 06-69922090) was once one of the hottest dining tickets in Rome. It's back, and is better than ever, serving the savory Roman specialties that once made it the favorite choice of the glitterati.
The Golden House of Nero (Domus Aurea), where the crazed emperor lived, had reopened in 1999 after a closure of 15 years for restoration. However, in 2006, it closed once again for restorations, with no scheduled reopening date. Check locally to see if it's open at the time of your visit, as it had been one of the most popular attractions of Rome.
A retired Italian-American perfume executive, Carlo Bilotti, donated his private collection of modern art to Rome, and it's showcased at the Museo Carlo Bilotti, Villa Borghese (tel. 06-820-59-127). The treasure trove predictably goes from Andy Warhol to Salvador DalÃ.
On the site of a former army barracks, MAXXI (National Museum of Art of the XXI Century) has opened in Flaminio at Via Guido Reni 10 (tel. 06-320-2438). In addition to the museum's permanent collection, the gallery hosts the most avant-garde exhibitions of modern art in Italy.
Mussolini and his family lived at Villa Torlonia on Via Nomentana (tel. 06-442-311-85) for 12 years. Today the 1802 villa has been opened to the public and turned into a museum dedicated to the Roman school of 20th century art, with an impressive collection, including sculpture by Antonio Canova. The villa also houses a Museum of the Holocaust, dedicated to the 2,000 Jews deported from Rome during its Nazi occupation.
In a former brewery, MARCO, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4 (tel. 06-6710-70400) opened to rave reviews; it's hailed as Rome's first contemporary art museum. In addition to a permanent collection of avant-garde art, it also is the venue for frequently changing temporary exhibitions from around the world. MARCO also has an annex in Testaccio, south of the center of Rome. The new complex has become a major cultural center, with, among other attractions, a media library and an art studio.
Florence
In the historic zone, Hotel Cellai, Via 27 Aprile 14, 52R (tel. 055-489291) is a restored 18th-century building turned into a hotel of charm and comfort. From its roof terrace, with its jasmine-scented bar, to its individually decorated bedrooms, to its dazzlingly white bathrooms, this one has become an immediate winner.
If you're seeing Florence on a budget, check into the recently restored Hotel Anna's, Via Faenza 56 (tel. 055-2302714), a former low-budget pensione that has upgraded itself to a government-rated 2-star hotel near the train station. In spite of all the improvements around here, its prices are still among the most reasonable in the area of the train station.
Another good choice for value is the recently renovated 1871 mansion, Residenza Casanuova, Villa della Mattonaia 21 (tel. 055-234344130), which is now one of the best B&Bs in Florence. In a prime location near Piazza Santa Croce, it retains much of its original architectural style, though it's been completely modernized with up-to-date amenities.
Florentines are asking, is UNA Hotel Vittoria, Via Pisana 59 (tel. 055-22771) a disco or a hotel? It's actually the most innovative and stunningly modern hotel in this antique city. Bedrooms are adorned with black leather walls and fiber optic lights, and the sleek lines of the décor are so avant-garde they look like what hotels might resemble 20 years from now. It's far too way out and modern for traditional tastes, but it has its devotees.
Among restaurants, the hot new dining ticket in Florence is the J.F. Lounge, Piazza Santa Maria Novella 9-10R (tel. 055-2645282), the most high-tech looking restaurant in this city of the Renaissance. The modern Italian and Tuscan cuisine is among the city's best, and the food is market fresh. After dinner guests head downstairs to an all-white cocktail bar where some of the most chic of Florentines gather.
Chianti Country
A former monastery on 2,000 acres (809h) in this wine district is now receiving and feeding guests in grand style. La Badia a Coltibuono, Località Badia a Coltibuono in Gaiole in Chianti (tel. 0577-744832), has been extensively restored with an addition of an outdoor pool set in an ancient abbey garden. Guests can choose between former monks' cells or more spacious bedrooms. Tuscan wines and a fine regional cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant.
Bologna
Our favorite inn of character has opened in Bologna: Art Hotel Novecento, Piazza Gallilei (tel. 051-7457311), its design inspired by the Art Deco style of the 1930s. In the heart of Bologna, it is completely up to date in its amenities, and has such extras as the best hotel breakfast in the city. Each of the bedrooms is individually decorated, and even the bathrooms are stylish.
Verona
In the Valpolicella countryside, outside of Verona, Dino Facchini, owner of the fashion label, Byblos, has opened the most stunning hotel in the province, Byblos Art Hotel, Via Cedrare 78, Corrubbio di negarine (tel. 045-6855555), a hybrid of a contemporary art museum and a grand palace resort. The hotel is the most theatrical in Italy and is housed in an elegant and restored 15th-century Venetian villa, which has been turned into a bastion of deluxe living with grand comfort, style, and cuisine.
Milan
In this city of fashionistas, a funky little hotel, Sabotino, Viale Sabotino 16 (tel. 02-58308797), has opened near La Scala, offering good value and plenty of Italian kitsch. It has a homelike atmosphere in its small but comfortably furnished rooms.
Genoa
Overlooking the Piazza Duomo in the heart of Genoa, Locanda di Palazzo Cicala, Piazza San Lorenzo 16 (tel. 010-2518824) is a restored little boutique hotel occupying a 17th-century palace's second floor. It has been completely modernized, although its antique features were preserved. Some of its rental units are suitable for families.
Ravello
Greta Garbo no longer checks in, but her former hideaway, Hotel Caruso, Piazza San Giovanni del toro 2 (tel. 089-858801) has been stunningly restored. The Orient Express took it over and overhauled it to the tune of $40 million. Standing atop a limestone cliff, overlooking the Gulf of Salerno, it is a stylish classic. Its Jackie O Suite is the most luxurious on the coast, although a nude former First Lady can no longer be seen swimming in its private pool.
Palermo
A restored palazzo, Grand Hotel Federico II, Via Principe di Granatelli 60 (tel. 091-7495052), has been turned into one of the newest and best hotels in the center of this Sicilian capital. Bedrooms are elegantly decorated in marble and adorned with ceramics, with many antiques and old paintings. A first-class restaurant has been installed on the fifth floor, and there is also a roof garden for al fresco dining in fair weather.
Share your travel tales and ask your questions on our Italy Message Boards today.