London is the most volatile and ever-changing city in Europe. "The scene" is constantly shifting. Here are some of the latest developments:
Treasure Trove of Modern Art Goes Up in Flames
On May 26, 2004, a fire swept through a warehouse in East London, destroying millions of pounds worth of work done by some of the leading British contemporary artists of today such as Damien Hirst. Art Collector Charles Saatchi suffered the greatest loss, as many of the painters he championed since the early 90s lost art that went up in flames.
Ironically, one of the art works destroyed was "Hell", by the Chapman brothers, a series of nine miniature landscapes in glass tanks depicting scenes of disaster and destruction like the fire itself. Saatchi himself commissioned "Hell" for a retrospective at his gallery for half a million pounds.
The art collector was reportedly "devastated" by the staggering loss to the British art scene. Works were also lost by Chris Ofili, whose dung-covered Virgin Mary so offended then-Mayor Rudolph Guliani when it went on display in the Brooklyn Museum.
Even though the works lost are considered irreplaceable by leading British art critics, it will not affect visitors to the Saatchi Gallery (www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk) in 2005. They will be treated to a vast array of some of Saatchi's greatest treasures. The warehouse held art works that were going to be displayed at his gallery on a rotational basis or lent to other leading galleries in Britain or abroad.
Accommodations
A forever swank address in Knightsbridge, The Berkeley, Wilton Place, S.W.1 (020/7950-5490, www.the-savoy-group.com/berkeley), is experiencing rebirth with the opening of not one, but two, world-class restaurants. Hailed as London's greatest chef today, Gordon Ramsay is the guiding force behind the less grand and somewhat whimsical Boxwood Café. For more formal and elegant dining -- and more expensive -- Marcus Wareing, hailed as one of the rising new chefs of England, operates the Pétrus.
For those frugal travelers, a new discovery is the Ashburn Hotel, 111 Cromwell Rd., SW7 (020/7370-3321, www.ashburn-hotel.co.uk), in the Royal Borough of Kensington. Within walking distance of such major attractions as Kensington Palace (former home of Princess Di), it is old-fashioned yet comfortably up to date. And in pricey London, its charges are most affordable.
St. George Hotel, 49 Gloucester Place, W.1 (020/7486-8586), has been recently restored and is now offering visitors an affordable yet central choice a short walk from Oxford and Baker streets. Furnishings are of a high quality, and the comfort is first rate.
Dining
Visitors to "The City," the business district of London, are flocking to a new and fashionable brasserie and brewery, Pacific Oriental, 1 Bishops Gate, EC2 (020/7621-9988), serving a Pacific Rim cuisine. Its location is only a 10-minute walk from Liverpool Street. Market-fresh produce combined with the restaurant's own brew make this an ideal choice to feast on Asian cuisine, mainly Thai influenced.
Garnering the most publicity in 2003 was a restaurant called Fifteen, 15 Westland Place, N1 (020/7251-1515), serving a British and continental cuisine. Jamie Oliver, author of The Naked Chef, caused a media blitz when he opened his place-touted on the Food Network. He takes what he calls "disadvantaged" youths and turns them into chefs almost overnight. Far from culinary disasters, London's food critics continue to heap high praise on the viands dished up here.
As fashionable London pushes into the East End, Eyre Brothers, 70 Leonard St., EC16 (020/7613-5346), is all the rage in trendy Shoreditch. The cuisine, surprisingly, is Portuguese. The chef is inspired by frequent visits to Portugal itself, and many of the dishes were also based on recipes from former Portuguese colonies in Africa.
Long a London dining legend, the Savoy Restaurant, in the Savoy Hotel, The Strand, WC2 (020/7592-1600), has made a comeback with a brightened décor and a modern menu of alluring taste, created by Marcus Wareing, one of the country's premier chefs. The modern British cuisine served here has never been better, and once again, celebrities, among others, are making "Savoy at the supper" a hot ticket.
The once staid restaurant at the Savoy's competitor, the Connaught Hotel, has also made a comeback. Menu, 16 Carlos Place, W1 (020/7592-1222), is under the domain of a female chef, Angella Hartnett, and she has breathed new life and exciting tastes into the revised menu here. The dining room is also considerably brightened under Nina Campbell's decorating.
In chic Knightsbridge, Britain's wonder chef, Marco Pierre White, has take over the once famous, Drones, 1 Pont St., SW1 (020/7259-6166). The place had gone stale, but not any more. The continental cuisine served here is light, sophisticated, and delicately prepared. A trendy crowd, often celebrities, is showing up at the doorstep.
The best for last. The hottest new dining ticket in London today is Sketch, 9 Conduit St., W1 (0870/777-4488), a sensation ever since it was inaugurated in 2003. Food, art, and music are artfully harmonized in the various venues open to you here. Wear your most fashionable young attire and be prepared for "a happening."
Exploring
Tate Britain, Milbank SW1 (020/7887-8000), and the Tate Modern, Bankside SE1 (020/7887-8008), on opposite sides of the River Thames, is now linked by a "Tate to Tate boat" (020/7887-8888), taking art lovers from one stellar museum to the other. Long the residence of the late Queen Mother, Clarence House, Stable Yard Gate, SW1 (020/7766-7303), has now opened its doors to the public. The John Nash-designed mansion has now been restored and is now the official residence of the Prince of Wales.
In 2003, nine more underground Cabinet War Rooms, Clive Steps, SW1 (020/7930-6961), were restored and opened to the public for the first time. Churchill, his family, and key staff members rode out some of the worst of World War II's Nazi blitzkrieg in these bunker-like rooms. Newly opened are Churchill's kitchen and dining room and Mrs. Churchill's bedroom.
London's newest museum is the Fashion & Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey St., SE1 (020/7403-0222, www.ftmlondon.org), on the south bank of the Thames River. A Mexican architect took a warehouse and converted it into this vibrant museum, the first of its kind in the United Kingdom devoted to textiles and contemporary fashion. It's all here, including some of the more daring apparel from London of the "Swinging Sixties."
Shopping
New outlets selling top quality merchandise keep opening in London. One of the finest of these is Emmet, 380 King's Rd. SW3 (020/7351-7529), selling one of the best selections of shirts in town. Shirt styles are sold in limited editions of about two dozen each. One of the most delightful discoveries is The Couverture Shop, 310 King's Rd., SW3 (020/7795-1200), which is like an emporium of the unexpected, placing an emphasis on "bedroom must-haves."