These days Mexico seems to have entered a political holding pattern, with structural reforms taking a back seat to the country's economic problems. President Fox has reached the halfway point of his 6-year stay in office, and the midterm elections were not kind to his party, the PAN. It lost many seats to its major competitors, the PRI and PRD. Voter turnout was weak and may reflect more of a disenchantment with the PAN than enthusiasm for the other parties. But one result of the elections is that further political reforms will probably proceed very slowly.
The president and the legislature are discussing ways to boost the economy, but a turnaround in the short-term largely depends on what happens beyond the country's borders. Though Mexico is an oil-exporting country, it is so dependent on trade with the U.S. that its currency, the peso, shadows the dollar's moves. When the dollar dropped in value against other major currencies, so did the peso, but to an even greater degree. This makes Mexico a relative bargain for travelers compared with most other international destinations. Here is a quick rundown on what else is new and noteworthy in Mexico:
Morelia
The city and state governments have installed nighttime illumination for three colonial buildings, including the cathedral -- a stunning sight. There are some new tourist information offices, including a kiosk on the Plaza de Armas (main square). Among the materials available to tourists is a new guide, published quarterly by the tourism folks, called "La Guía de Morelia." It's quite helpful and contains a calendar of events. This city is also sponsoring free concerts and dance performances Sunday nights on the Plaza de Armas. And on Thursday nights, a band plays classic Mexican tunes from the 40s and 50s.
Guadalajara
El Sacromonte, Pedro Moreno 1398, west side (tel/fax 33/3825-5447) one of the best restaurants in Guadalajara, has opened a cantina next door, called El Duende (same phone as restaurant, reservations accepted only for large groups). In addition to the main courses, you can get classic Mexican botanas (dishes that are meant to accompany drinks, like Spanish tapas). This new spot has a relaxed environment similar to that of the original restaurant, but keeps longer hours.
The Tequila Express, a popular weekend excursion by train to Amatitán, the home of Herradura Tequila, now has a web page for information and reservations: www.tequilaexpress.com.mx.
Huatulco
Las Brisas Resorts has opened a new resort on Tangolunda Bay, at the site of the former Club Med. The 350-unit Las Brisas Huatulco (www.las-brisas-huatulco.com) has four restaurants and bars, 12 tennis courts, three squash courts, three swimming pools, a spa and health club, and meeting facilities.
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo
A highway between Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo and Morelia, capital of Michoacán state, is nearly complete. The Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Convention & Visitors Bureau (www.ixtapa-zihuatanejo.com) hopes to promote visits to the region that combine beach and colonial themes, starting in one area and ending in another.
La Casa Que Canta, on Playa La Ropa, in Ixtapa, (tel. 888/523-5050 in the U.S.; www.lacasaquecanta.com.mx) has expanded to include a villa, El Murmello, whose four suites all have private plunge pools.
Puebla
Scheduled to reopen in early 2004 after extensive renovations, Puebla's Museo Bello y González will be a can't-miss attraction. The collection abounds with fine decorative work from three continents, and the house is unique.
Cozumel
The car ferry that used to depart from Puerto Morelos now uses the Calica Pier south of Playa del Carmen. There are 4 departures per day at 7am, 1pm, 5pm, and 9pm. The cost is $78 for a standard car, and the trip takes about an hour. Arrive one hour before departure. Call Marítima Chancanaab (tel. 987/872-0916) for more details. In addition, there are now two passenger ferry companies running boats between Cozumel and Playa, using the same piers.
The Riviera Maya
Beware of all time-share offers. Just when you thought that the bottom-feeders couldn't go any lower, travelers are reporting new extremes in the deceptive and coercive tactics of time-share salespersons. Remember that these sorts of activities go unregulated in this part of the world.
Playa Del Carmen
A new passenger ferry pier is being build at Av. Constituyentes in spite of considerable opposition from local business people and conservationists, who make a good argument that a new pier is not needed.
Tulum
Freedom Paradise (tel. 866/LIVE-XXL; www.freedomparadise.com), north of Tulum, is a new all-inclusive resort that caters to larger folks but welcomes people of all sizes.
Costa Maya
Highway construction between Bacalar and Limones and between Limones and Majahual is now complete. It takes 20 minutes off the drive to Majahual. Now it looks like the highway department will start widening the road between Bacalar and Chetumal. Be prepared for delays.
Mérida
The city tourism office has changed its phone number. The new number is 999/942-0000, ext. 133. The location remains the same. Also, the web page is much improved; see www.merida.gob.mx.
Construction has begun on the new city market, designed to include green space and better parking. But until it's completed, expect an increase in traffic tie-ups just southeast of the main square due to construction.
The Copper Canyon
The problems and uncertainty surrounding the car ferry between Los Mochis and La Paz seem to have come to an end with the arrival of a new boat and new ownership. There is one departure per day from Los Mochis (but no departure on Saturday). The trip takes 7 hours. For info and to purchase tickets contact Viajes Flamingos (tel. 668/812-1613).