Despite the uncertain travel environment worldwide, Mexico tourism remains strong. During 2002, more than 19.7 million international visitors arrived, a decrease of less than 1% from the previous year. Many tourists from the U.S. and Canada, who in the past might have gone to Europe, are making their way to Mexico. The U.S. remains Mexico's main market, representing 88.2% of international arrivals. The peso has declined against the dollar (about 20%) while the euro has risen, making Mexico cheaper and Europe more expensive for Americans, Brits, and Canadians. And the present political climate has changed perceptions of Mexico. Before terrorism became a major concern for travelers, many perceived Mexico as a riskier destination than Europe; today, the reverse is the case. Still, the economic slowdown is keeping many at home, and this means that there are still deals to be found in Mexico.
Politically and socially, Mexico remains stable. Like the U.S., it is experiencing economic hard times. A common expression heard here is, "When America sneezes, Mexico gets the flu." There are growing signs of discontent with NAFTA, an issue that will probably not go away until the economy turns around. President Vicente Fox will have his hands full trying to convince his fellow citizens that he has Mexico on the right track by tying its interests more closely to the U.S., while at the same time showing them that he isn't kowtowing to Washington.
Tourists will find good value, thanks to the favorable exchange rate. But they will also have to spend a little more here and there. For example, the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), the agency that oversees the administration of museums and archaeological sites, has ended its policy of allowing tourists free admission on Sunday.
According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, travel to Mexico currently accounts for one-third of the total number of U.S. residents traveling abroad. With its "Closer than Ever" ad campaign, Mexico is positioned as one of the few destinations outside of the United States that offers North American travelers proximity, security, and a welcoming atmosphere.
Planning Your Trip
Las Brisas hotels have a new "freedom to travel" cancellation policy. Instituted in the wake of the Iraq war, it allows travel agents and consumers to change reservations without penalty for any reason, at any time before departure. It provides full credit for unused portions if the vacation has already started and is interrupted in the event of conflict or terrorist activity. Las Brisas operates hotels and resorts in Acapulco, Huatulco, Manzanillo, Ixtapa, Mexico City, and Querétaro.
Mexico City
Over the past 2 years, spurred by the Academy Award-winning film biography of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, "Frida Fever" has sparked a renaissance of interest in this dynamic city. Majestic Mexico Tours (tel. 877/639-6392; www.mexico-tours.com) offers a 5-day "Frida Kahlo Tour" of Mexico City, which explores her world and the city's arts and culture.
The super-hot hotel group that owns Mexico City's trendy Habita and Playa del Carmen's Deseo has a new venture on the horizon. Condesa is a new hotel planned for the Mexico City neighborhood of the same name. It's slated to open by late 2004 and will feature a signature lounge and a rooftop terrace "hammam" (an Arab-influenced wellness center or spa).
Latin America's first W Hotel (www.starwood.com) is expected to be in operation by summer 2003 in Mexico City's posh Polanco neighborhood, at the corner of Campos Eliseos and Andres Bello. The 237-room hotel will include a business center, meeting space, a spa, and a restaurant.
Starwood Hotels & Resorts opened the Sheraton Centro Histórico hotel and convention center, Av. Juárez 70 (tel. 800/325-3535 in the U.S.; www.sheraton.com), in 2003. Its 457 guest rooms hold state-of-the-art technology work areas with high-speed Internet access, as well as flat-screen TVs with Internet capability.
The hot nightlife spots are in the Condesa neighborhood, known as the "SoHo of Mexico City." Hip clubs also dot the posh Polanco neighborhood. Trendy destinations in Polanco include Bar Cosmo and AREA at the Habita hotel; if you're in Condesa, head for Cinna Bar, Rexo, or Rioma.
Silver Cities
San Miguel de Allende has something new for visitors to do -- take cooking classes at a new school, Sazón (www.sazon.com). It offers a variety of lessons taught by visiting chefs as well as tours of the local market. ETN, the deluxe bus company that serves cities in western Mexico, now operates in San Miguel, with departures to and from Guanjuato and Guadalajara.
Querétaro continues to be the Mexican model for renovating historic colonial city centers. Still relatively unknown by foreigners, it is one of the biggest surprises awaiting visitors. This year a restaurant and retail concern called San Miguelito (tel. 442/224-2760) renovated and opened a grand old colonial house, La Casa de los Cinco Patios. It serves good food to match the gorgeous setting.
A new highway linking Michoacán's highlands with the resort of Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo (www.ixtapa-zihuatanejo.com) is just about complete and has shortened travel time by 3 hours. A vacation that mixes beach time with an exploration of Mexico's fascinating highlands is now more feasible than ever.
In Guadalajara Villa Ganz #1739 Col. Lafayette, (tel. 33/3120 1416 or 01/800/813 23 33; www.villaganz.com), a charming boutique hotel, has opened on the near west side of the city. Good location, beautiful rooms, and personal service make it a great option. The hot restaurant of the moment, I Latina, serves fusion cooking with a Mexican flair.
Puerto Vallarta & The Central Pacific Coast
The Condé Nast Traveler readers' poll voted Puerto Vallarta the friendliest city in the world. The movie Puerto Vallarta Squeeze, with Harvey Keitel and Scott Glenn, filmed here in 2002, it's due for release in late 2003. Farther down the coast in Careyes, Quentin Tarantino was filming Kill Bill, starring Uma Thurman, Michael Madsen, and David Carradine. Look for it in theaters in the fall of 2003. Puerto Vallarta first caught the attention of international travelers during the filming of the 1964 John Huston film Night of the Iguana. The city will play host to 40th-anniversary celebrations throughout 2004, with the La Jolla de Mismaloya resort, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco 48300 (tel. 01/322-22606-60; www.lajollademismaloya.com) offering special Night of the Iguana packages.
Puerto Vallarta's malecón (boardwalk) was revamped after suffering hurricane damage in late 2002. It now offers ramp access at numerous spots. The main street of restaurants and storefronts, which bore the brunt of the storm damage, was restored within weeks, resulting in a newly polished look for Vallarta's central downtown zone. Several hotels, including the Sheraton Buganvilias resort, (tel. 011/52 322 226 0404; www.sheratonvallarta.com), also were "inspired" to renovate. In addition, a new pedestrian bridge has been constructed over the mouth of the Río Cuale, which extends the malecón from the Rosita Hotel all the way south to Playa Los Muertos.
Los Flamingos Club de Golf, 653 Circuito Universidad, Colonia San Nicolas (tel. 52 332 290 0030;www.vistavallartagolf.com has just completed a $3 million renovation and is under new ownership and management. The improvements at Vallarta's first golf course, built in 1978 and designed by Percy Clifford, include new carts, a remodeled clubhouse and guest facilities, cart-path improvements, and new irrigation and drainage systems.
Two sleek new clubs have opened: deSantos, adjacent to the popular deSantos restaurant and bar, and Bianco, on the banks of the Cuale River. Hilo, a massive dance club, joined the nightspots along the malecón, while several smaller lounges -- Liberté, Benito's, and Chill Lounge -- opened in the downtown area.
Acapulco & The Southern Pacific Coast
Acapulco
Fonatur, the federal agency responsible for investment in tourism infrastructure, announced a massive urban renovation plan for Acapulco. It calls for the investment of $450 million over the next 25 years. Improvements will begin with the town's beaches, water and waste treatment facilities, and waste management. The plan also aims to update Acapulco's image, in much the same manner as South Beach Miami or downtown Las Vegas.
The former Plaza Las Glorias hotel has changed ownership and is now the Avalon Excalibur, Costera Miguel Aleman # 163 (tel. 800/950-1363; www.avalonresorts.net) is undergoing a multimillion-dollar facelift.
The Fairmont Acapulco Princess opened a new 4,200-sq.-m (14,000-sq.-ft.), $3.5 million spa, Willow Stream, Playa Revolcadero s/n Col. Granjas del Marques (tel. 52/744/469-1000 or 1800 441/1414; www.willowstream.com). One of the most expansive spas in Mexico, Willow Stream boasts multiuse treatment rooms, couples massage suites, Jacuzzis, steam, and sauna, as well as a complete fitness center, beauty salon, and other services.
Within the super-hot nightclub Enigma, there's a new after-hours venue, Privado, whose doors open at 4:30am and close when the last person leaves.
In Huatulco Las Brisas Resorts has opened a new resort on Tangolunda Bay, at the site of the former Club Med. The 350-unit Las Brisas Huatulco, Bahia Tangolunda Lote 1, Bahias de Huatulco, Oaxaca (www.las-brisas-huatulco.com) has four restaurants and bars, 12 tennis courts, three squash courts, three swimming pools, a spa and health club, and meeting facilities.
A highway between Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo and Morelia, capital of Michoacán state, is nearly complete. The Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Convention & Visitors Bureau, Plaza Los Patios, Ixtapa, Guerrero, Mexico (tel. 553-1067; info@ixtapa-zihuatanejo.org) hopes to promote visits to the region that combine beach and colonial themes, starting in one place and departing from the other.
La Casa Que Canta (tel. 888/523-5050 in the U.S.; www.lacasaquecanta.com.mx) has expanded to include a villa, El Murmullo, Zihuatanejo, Guerrero 40880 (tel. 011/52/755-555-7000 or 1-888-523-5050; www.elmurmullodelacasaquecanta.com) whose four suites all have private plunge pools.
Chiapas
Archaeologists continue work on Structure 13 at Palenque, where they are trying to excavate subterranean chambers. Rancho Esmeralda, a small ecolodge near Ocosingo, is no longer open, having been invaded by peasants from a nearby village.
Puebla
Scheduled to reopen in early 2004 after extensive renovation, Puebla's Museo Bello y González will be a can't-miss attraction. The collection abounds with fine decorative work from three continents, and the house is unique.
Canún
Pleasant Holidays (www.pleasantholidays.com) is boosting service into Cancún aboard scheduled nonstop ATA Airlines flights. The round-trip service leaves from both Los Angeles and San Francisco.
The first Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course in the Cancún area has opened at the Moon Palace Golf Resort, Carretera Cancún-Chetumal (tel. 1/800-523-8699; www.palaceresorts.com), along the Riviera Maya. Two additional PGA courses are planned for the area just north of Cancún in the next 2 years.
Magic Sky (tel. 998/885-1720; www.tbfmiami.com/magicsky/) offers panoramic helicopter tours of Cancún and the surrounding areas, with day and evening flights available. Tours to the ruins and flights south along the Riviera Maya are also an option, as are customized tours. A 25-minute ride over the Cancún Hotel Zone costs $120.
Another option for taking in the view from above is in the new rotating sightseeing tower, La Torre Cancún, at the El Embarcadero Marina (www.elembarcadero.com). Also recently opened at El Embarcadero is the House of Mexican Folk Art, a museum featuring colorful folk art, including traditional masks, regional costumes, Virgin of Guadalupe images, toys, musical instruments, and more. Admission is $5 per person, $3 for children ages 5 to 11. Open daily from 9am to 9pm.
Bulldog Café has replaced the once-dominant disco Christine. The atmosphere is now much more casual, and the music is pure dance.
Isla Mujeres
Among the most newsworthy of Mexico's unique inns is the recently opened Secreto (tel. 52/998/877-1039; www.hotelsecreto.com). A stylish enclave in this otherwise funky village, it's on a secluded cove on the northern end of the island, close to the activity of "downtown" Isla.
Avalon Resorts has opened the 144-room Avalon Reef Club (tel. 888/497-4325; www.avalonresorts.net), an all-inclusive resort at the northern tip of the island.
The Riviera Maya
Puerto Morelos & Environs have now four luxury spa resorts near Puerto Morelos. Each offers a different angle on how to pamper its guests, with "pamper" being the operative word.
In Playa del Carmen new restaurants and new hotels add variety to this destination, which keeps growing at an astonishing rate.
In Costa Maya highway work continues between Bacalar and Limones and between Limones and Majahual. It slows the trip from Tulum to Chetumal by about 30 to 60 minutes.
Río Bec Ruins suffered damage from Hurricane Isidore, and access to certain buildings and the inner chambers has been restricted until the buildings can be made structurally sound.
Merida, Chichen Itza & The Mayan Interior
In Mérida the only signs left from the extensive damage caused by Hurricane Isidore are the missing trees. In Uaymitún, the observation tower for viewing flamingos remains closed for repairs.
A new company, Expreso Maya (tel. 999/944-9393; www.expresomaya.com.mx), operates monthly train tours connecting Mérida, Uxmal, Campeche, and Palenque.
Los Cabos & Baja California
The October 2002 APEC summit resulted in new investment in roads, infrastructure, and technology services for the Los Cabos area. One of the most notable improvements is the new highway between the airport and Cabo San Lucas. Fiber-optic cable has been installed to boost high-speed Internet connections, and the Cabo San Lucas water treatment facilities have been improved. Aeromexico (www.aeromexico.com) launched nonstop service from Ontario, Calif., to Los Cabos in July 2003, with four flights per week.
The grande dame of Los Cabos resorts, the Hotel Palmilla, San Jose Del Cabo (tel. 52/624 146 7000; www.palmillaresort.com) is under new ownership and currently closed. After a multimillion-dollar renovation, it plans to reopen in late 2003.
Auberge Resorts opened the 56-room luxury Hotel at Esperanza (tel. 866/311-2226; www.esperanzaresort.com), a collection of 50 "casita" suites and six private villas on the bluffs of Punta Ballena. Designed to resemble a typical Mexican village, it spreads across 17 acres overlooking coves along the Sea of Cortez. Resort facilities include an elegant spa, plus a series of pools and the gourmet Cocina del Sol restaurant.
In December 2003, Hotel Marquis will open the $44 million, 238-unit El Encanto Marquis (tel. 877/238-9399) between the El Dorado and Cabo Real golf courses. The all-suite resort will feature the largest conference center in Los Cabos, as well as an 8,100-sq.-m (27,000-sq.-ft.) full-service spa.
The Camino Real Loreto Baja (tel. 1/800/297-2576) opened in Loreto in 2003. It has a golf course and 156 rooms overlooking Nopolo Bay.
Lounge-style bars are heating up Cabo nightlife -- or at least adding a new sophistication to the rowdy style that has dominated the scene here for years. CinaMomo Cucina and Lounge, at the trendy new Puerto Paraíso mall, is the best of the bunch.