Montana and Wyoming are known for their rugged beauty, outdoor recreation opportunities, Wild West history, and wide-open spaces. These are sparsely populated areas, where getting around means long hours in a car and visitors get to see a section of America that is little changed from the way it was when pioneers moved through in covered wagons. Change comes slowly here--that's one of the things we like so much about these states -- but gradually we are seeing more paved roads, more chain motels and restaurants, and at least a few of the more upscale facilities we expect to find in America's more modern cities.
Following are some of the recent changes in Montana and Wyoming, and we'll be watching with anticipation, and just a bit of trepidation, as these states move toward joining the modern world.
Glacier National Park
Fires took a heavy toll on the park in 2003, charring more than 10 percent of the total acreage. But much of the park is as pristine as ever, as are 33 bright Red Jammer Buses, (tel. 406/892-2525; www.glacierparkinc.com) now back in service after a restoration project that began in 1999.
Missoula, The Flathead & The Northwest Corner
Missoula
A changing of the guard took place in the local dining scene, with longtime stalwart Marianne's at the Wilma closing its doors and Two Sisters, 27 W. Alder (tel. 406/327-8438) emerging as a relatively new standout. Also, a fantasy-themed playground, Dragon Hollow, opened immediately next to the carousel in Caras Park.
Bigfork
The Swan River Inn, 360 Grand Ave. (tel. 406/837-2220), added three new guest rooms, including an enchanting Arabian-themed suite. The Mountain Lake Lodge, 1950 Sylvan Dr. (tel. 877/823-4923), has established itself as one of the best new modern properties to open here since 2000, featuring an incredible Flathead Lake view from the pool courtyard.
Whitefish
Few people thought sushi would catch on in remote Whitefish, but it is thriving at Wasabi, 419 E. 2nd St. (tel. 406/863-9283), which has added an adjacent casual grill and an upstairs oyster and wine bar since 2001.
Helena & Southwestern Montana
Helena
A sparkling new commercial development, the Great Northern Town Center replaces a recycling yard northwest of downtown. Anchored by the new Best Western Great Northern, 835 Great Northern Blvd. (tel. 800/829-4047), the area also includes restaurants, shops, and the hand-carved critters of the Great Northern Carousel, 924 Bicentennial Plaza (tel. 406/457-5353; goldwest.visitmt.com/listings/13488.htm). Plans for an adjacent children's museum are in the works.
Butte
To stem the polluted waters seeping into the Berkeley Pit, (tel. 800/735-6814) a newly constructed water-treatment plant began operating in November 2003. The city formally buried the hatchet with Butte native and onetime local juvenile delinquent Evel Knievel in 2002, with the first Evel Knievel Daze, (tel. 406/494-2825; www.knievelweek.com) an annual festival held in late July or early August that commemorates Knievel's life and features stunt shows, parades, and kids' events. A modern bed and breakfast, Toad Hall Manor, 1 Green Lane (tel. 866/443-8623; www.bbonline.com/mt/toadhallmanor) opened in 2003 in a mansion on the golf course, with what might be the best room -- Sir Badger's Suite -- in town.
Dillon
Montana High Country Tours, 35 miles west of Dillon at 7500 Scenic By-way, Polaris (tel. 406/834-3469; https://www.mhct.com), opened a brand-new guest lodge with double rates starting at $75 per night.
The Hi-Line & North-Central Missouri River Country
Indigo, 518 Central Ave. in Great Falls (tel. 406/453-1760), emerged as the city's leading culinary light and an anchor of a slowly revitalizing downtown.Bozeman, South-Central Montana & The Missouri Headwaters
BozemanThe American Computer Museum relocated from downtown to 2304 N. 7th Ave. (tel. 406/582-1288; www.compustory.com). The Savory Olive, 105 W. Main St. in the Baxter Hotel (tel. 406/586-8320) replaced the Baxter Grille, serving some of the best food in town -- an eclectic mix of Mediterranean fare with an emphasis on organic regionally grown ingredients. A new casual dining option is the Naked Noodle, 27 S. Willson Ave. (tel. 406/522-0800), specializing in noodle dishes from all over the world.The Madison River Valley
The Potosi Hot Springs Resort near Pony (tel. 888/685-1695; www.potosiresort.com) entrenched itself as one of the best new lodging options around, renting four deluxe cabins on Willow Creek and offering a plethora of outdoor activities, including its eponymous hot springs pools.
Yellowstone National Park
The grand Old Faithful Inn (tel. 307/344-7311; www.westyellowstonenet.com) celebrates its 100th birthday in 2004 with a number of different events. The park's concessionaire changed its name from AmFac Parks & Resorts to Xanterra Parks & Resorts (www.xanterra.com/properties/yellowstone.htm). A U.S. District Court judge puts a hold on President Bush's attempt to reverse the snowmobiling ban imposed by the Clinton administration. If you want to go snowmobiling in Yellowstone, be sure to first call the park for a regulatory update. Norris Geyser Basin (www.yellowstoneparknet.com) and the floor of Yellowstone Lake (www.yellowstoneparknet.com) were unusually active in terms of geothermal changes in the summer of 2003; stay tuned for further developments.Jackson Hole & Grand Teton National Park
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, (tel. 307/733-2292; www.jacksonhole.com) just keeps getting better, with new developments that more than double the guest capacity. In 2002, Teton Mountain Lodge, 3385 W. Village Dr., Teton Village (tel. 800/801-6615; www.tetonlodge.com) opened its doors, featuring high-end studios and suites. At press time, the new Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole, 7680 Granite Loop Rd., Teton Village (tel. 307/732-5000; www.fourseasons.com) opened in early 2004.Pato, 680 E. Broadway (tel. 307/739-9191), opened in 2001, serving fusion dishes from "places that are warm" and Latin dance parties on Friday nights.
Cody & North-Central Wyoming
The Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 720 Sheridan Ave. (tel. 307/587-4771; www.bbhc.org) opened its fifth wing in 2002, the Draper Museum of Natural History. Rivaling similar facilities in major cities, the Draper is chock full of interactive exhibits that focus on the greater Yellowstone ecosystem. Cody Trolley Tours, 1192 Sheridan Ave. (tel. ) recently began operations, delivering fun, fact-filled tours of Cody and vicinity in a restored trolley.
Sheridan & Eastern Wyoming
The new National Historic Trails Interpretative Center, 1501 N. Poplar St. in Casper (tel. 307/261-7700; www.wy.blm.gov/nhtic) opened in 2002, giving us modern travelers an idea of what life on the "road" was like for the emigrants who passed through here in the mid-1800s on the Oregon, Mormon, California, and Pony Express trails.Southern Wyoming
The newly restored Cheyenne Depot, 121 W. 15th St. (tel. 307/632-3905; www.wtmlc.org)opened in late 2003, featuring the Wyoming Transportation Museum, Number One Depot Square, 115 West 15th , Cheyenne (tel. 307/632-3905; cheyennedepotmuseum.org) the Cheyenne Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, (tel. 307/778-3133 or 800-426-5009; JanetC@cheyenne.org) and a microbrewery.