After a few years of relative quiet, the simmering issue of Québec separation from the rest of Canada is bubbling up yet again. In a daring move, Prime Minister Stephen Harper made the surprising proposal that the province be recognized as a nation "within a united Canada." The House of Commons swiftly and overwhelmingly approved the measure. While Harper was clearly attempting to deflect actions by the separatist Bloc Québécois, critics say that he has simply given an opening to Québec nationalists to exploit in the future.
Politics aside, Québec is enjoying an extended period of prosperity. The strength of the Canadian dollar in relation to its U.S. counterpart is a mixed blessing, to be sure, making Québec more expensive than it was at the start of the new century. But the obvious advantage of being within driving or short flying distance of millions of potential American visitors -- as opposed to Europe -- helps minimize the narrowed financial advantage.
Montréal
The explosive boom in boutique hotels has cooled, but there are a few entries in a subgroup that might be called "elevated bed-and-breakfasts". In the Latin Quarter, a fetching possibility is the Auberge Le Pomerol (819 blvd. de Maisonneuve; tel. 514/526-5511; www.aubergelepomerol.com). Housed in a granite-sided three-story that appears to date to the early 1800s, guests in its 27 distinctively decorated rooms are accorded access to a nearby fitness center. A similar enterprise is Auberge le Jardin d'Antoine (2024 rue St-Denis; tel. 514/843-4506; www.hotel-jardin-antoine.qc.ca), also in the lively Latin Quarter, with 25 recently renovated units of varied dimension and décor. Some rooms have whirlpool tubs, and most overlook the interior courtyard.
The city enjoys an ever-higher profile for alert travelers, with cascades of newspaper and magazine articles extolling its charms, including a full issue of Gourmet last spring. There is no end to the almost weekly openings of new restaurants, adding to an already extensive roster.
One of the most celebrated newcomers is Raza (114 av. Laurier oueste; tel. 514/227-8714), which symbolizes its nuevo latino menu with the projected image of a Peruvian farmer. The owner started out with tapas-like small plates, but then shifted to five- and seven-course tasting menus. His lauded signature appetizer is a crusty empanada stuffed with silky foie-gras. Brontë (1809 rue Sherbrooke oust; tel. 514/934-1801) has been around a little longer and is mentioned in the same breath with Toqué (place Jean-Paul-Riopelle; tel. 514-499-2064), widely acclaimed (except by a few contrarians) as the city's gastronomical standard-bearer. Call Brontë Italian fusion, call it stately and expensive, but recognize that it tramples categories.
On our list for future review is Garçon! (1112 rue Sherbrooke; tel. 514/843-4000), said to have downright startling food and a handsome waitstaff; Meatmarket (4415 blvd. St-Laurent; tel. 514/223-2292), a classy sandwich shop to offset the rich comestibles and tabs at the others mentioned; and La Bête Humaine (1637 av. Van Horne; tel. 514/278-0001), which gets your attention with hefty portions of duck, venison, bison, and wild boar served on hot stone platters.
Slight years ago, the neighborhood called Mile End was barely a blip on the radar screen. Still rather seedy in parts, it occupies an area of uncertain boundaries to the northwest of trendy Plateau Mont-Royal and east of residential Outremont. Avant-garde eateries are moving in, notably L'Atelier (5308 blvd. St-Laurent; tel. 514/273-7442), which follows the vogue for small plates. So far, though, Mile End is better known for its extremely cool bars and lounges. The vibe is epitomized by Baldwin Barmacle (115 av. Laurier ouest; tel. 514/276-4282), perhaps the hippest of them all-- at least a nanosecond ago.
Québec City
In Québec, the resurgent, downtown neighborhood of St-Roch, to which we alerted readers three years ago, continues to evolve as a nightlife and dining destination, growing ever more popular with adventuresome gourmands, young artists and professionals. There aren't too many touristsÂ?yet. The Scanner Bistro (291 rue St-Vallier est; tel. 418/523-1916) is a new alt-bar offering several microbrews, free Internet access, and a DJ nightly from ten o'clock on. Newish L'Amour Sorcier (789 côte Ste-Geneviève; tel. 418/523-3395), has a largely lesbian clientele.
Not far away, in the railway station that echoes the Château Frontenac (they had the same architect), is the Charbon Steakhouse (Gare du Palais; tel. 418/522-0133), filled with businesspeople by day and couples and singles at night. In front of the station is the Pub Thomas Dunn (369 rue St-Paul; tel. 418/692-4693), a persuasive replication of its British cousins featuring 75 scotches and 150 different beers and ales. We keep meaning to mention Café Le Saint-Malo (75 rue St-Paul; tel. 418/692-2004), one of a cluster of bistros that wrap around the intersection of rues Sault-au-Matelot and St-Paul. Its menu of country French fare includes what many locals consider the best cassoulet in town.
The Québec City calendar is packed with events, year-round, but do notice this advisory: The enormously entertaining winter Carnaval de Québec is rolling from January 26th to February 11th, 2007. It's a two-week-plus festival as suitable for families as for rollicking singles, with parades, dog-sledding, river races, snow sculptures, fireworks, and a hotel made entirely of ice. Start to seek reservations right this minute to have even a snowball's chance of snaring a room. Call tel. 866/422-7628 or check out www.carnaval.qc.ca to get started.
Most of the choice hotels are likely to be booked up, but here are some less fancy but reasonable alternatives: Hôtel des Coutellier (253 rue St-Paul; tel. 888/523-9696; www.hoteldescoutellier.com); Hôtel le Saint-Paul (229 1/2 rue St-Paul; tel. 888/794-4414); and Hôtel Royal William (360 blvd. Charest est; tel. 888/541-0405; www.royalwilliam.com). The first two are in the Lower Town near the antiques district, the last on is in the hot St-Roch district.