Québec's economic boom continues. That's only fair, since Canada's second largest province suffered a decade-long economic recession in the 1990s and early 2000s, when Americans were experiencing a long period of prosperity. The impact of these good times is less salubrious for visitors, however. Montréal and Québec City are no longer the bargain havens they were in 2003, when one U.S. dollar cost $1.50 Canadian, effectively granting a 33% discount on just about all goods and services north of the border. At this writing, the cost hovers between C$1.14 and C$1.18 for every US$1.
That still amounts to a decent discount, and Québec remains a highly attractive, easily reached, comfortingly familiar yet faintly exotic vacation or business destination. For evidence, log on to www.tourism-montreal.org/lastminute. The tourist office of Greater Montréal offers deals for impromptu visits that include discounted hotel rates at several national and international chains as well as reduced-fee admission to many local attractions.
Should you visit Québec in the first half of 2006, you are likely to encounter an atmosphere of heightened political activity. The governing Liberal Party of Prime Minister Paul Martin is trying to shake off the drag of a lingering financial scandal, emboldening the New Democratic and Conservative Parties and the revitalized Bloc Québecois. Canadian politicians often find it useful to wag their fingers at the actions of their counterparts to the south, thereby deflecting attention from their own deficiencies. Don't take it personally. Canadians are still among the most hospitable people on earth.
Accommodations
While the possibly irrational exuberance that provoked a spasm of hotel construction in recent years has slowed, it hasn't expired. New on the Montréal scene is the very central Le Square Phillips Hotel & Suites (1193 place Phillips; tel. 866/393-1193; www.squarephillips.com). Following laudable local architectural custom, the developers retained the historic Ernest Cormier exterior while stripping and refurbishing the interior in minimalist contemporary mode. The Latin Quarter's store of B&Bs is highlighted by the Auberge Le Jardin d'Antoine (2024 rue St-Denis; tel. 514/843-4506; www.hotel-jardin-antoine.qc.ca), which recently completed a top-to-bottom overhaul. It retains its late 19th Century core. Nearby is the newly introduced Montréal Espace Confort (2050 rue St-Denis; tel. 514/842-1887; www.montrealespaceconfort.com), a non-smoking inn that offers kitchenettes and high-speed Internet access in its 25 rooms.
Noteworthy changes and additions have been completed in several existing hotels, as well. Having added a flashy new restaurant, Aix Cuisine du Terroir, the boutique Hôtel Place d'Armes (55 rue St-Jacquesl; tel. 514/842-1887; www.hotelplacedarmes.com) has expanded further with 48 additional luxury suites and a spa that incorporates, among other features, a Turkish bath. The singular Institut d'hôtellerie du Québec trains young people to enter the culinary and hospitality trades. An important part of its facility is the Hôtel de l'Institut (3535 rue St-Denis; tel. 514/282-5120; www.hotel.ithq.qc.ca), a fully functional lodging run primarily by students that accepts guests from the general public. It has been made more attractive with renovations to the entire building that includes an updated lobby and a restaurant of serious gastronomical aspiration. Finally in Montréal, the Accor Novotel (3535 rue St-Denis; tel. 514/861-6000; www.novotelmontreal.com) has invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in 40 luxury units and an ambitious lounge-restaurant called simply Ô. Early 2006, by the way, isn't too soon to make hotel reservations for the immensely popular Festival International de Jazz, scheduled for the first two weeks in July (www.montealjazzfest.com).
The boutique fashion has spread to the Laurentians, too. The spectacularly luxurious Hôtel Quintessence opened in 2005 in the Tremblant resort, and will soon be joined by Château Beauvallon (www.chateaubeauvallon.com), a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World consortium, opening in Mont-Tremblant. The lakeside suites-only hotel will have 70 units and can be assumed to meet the highest international standards.
In Québec City, the ongoing movement to convert old buildings to new uses has lately resulted in the new 71 Hôtel (71 rue St-Pierre). On an ancient block between the estimable Hôtel Dominion and Auberge St-Antoine, it occupies a site that once held Canada's first fire insurance company. Still under construction at the time of our last visit, it nevertheless promises to be yet another worthy addition to the capital's lodgings, with a pool, exercise room, café, and business center among its amenities. Le Château Bonne Entente, an ever-expanding resort hotel at the western edge of the city has been accorded membership in the exclusive Leading Hotels of the World organization. This is the result of over $12 million lavished not only on its central facility but on an elaborate spa and a nearby golf course of international distinction.
Dining
Dining options in Montréal multiply at a breakneck pace. A few new ones we haven't tried yet: Ô Chalet (1393 bd. René-Lévesque est; tel. 514/527-7070) earns plaudits for food that draws inspiration from the French, Italian, Basque, and Catalan kitchens. The enthusiasm for Spanish cookery that has blazed across North America of late has yet another outpost in Old Montréal's Version Laurent Godbout (295 rue St-Paul est; tel. 514/878-2232). Chef-proprietor Laurent Godbout opened it a few steps away from his popular Chez l'Epicier (331 rue St-Paul est; tel. 514/878-2232). The older one is a contemporary French bistro, while his new venture traffics in tapas, or at least small dishes which use that Spanish invention as a point of departure. Over in the Anglo-flavored Rue Crescent district, the Frenchified Bistro l'Aromate (1410 rue Peel; tel. 514/847-9005) is catching the roving eyes of trend-spotters. Its name -- "Seasoning" -- announces its intent, with Mediterranean dishes permeated with the pungent aromas of herbs, oils, vinegars, and spices specially mixed on the premises.
The Gay Village is known for its substantial number of moderate to economical eateries, often with bring-your-own-wine policies. (Just beware of the BYOW places that then try to sell you $8 bottles of designer water.) Élla-Grill (1237 rue Amherst; tel. 514/523-5553) is a stylish purveyor of Greek comestibles, elegant in design, traditional in menu, professional in execution, while O Thym (1112 bd. de Maisonneuve; tel. 514/525-3443) goes for edgy, elegant creations that adhere to no particular discipline. More restaurant activity can be expected as Montréal gears up for the first World Outgames from July 26 to August 5, 2006. While the event has an obvious gay orientation, everyone is welcome, regardless of race, ethnicity, gender, religion, and et cetera.
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