Russia is unquestionably back on the world stage, making it an excellent time to visit its two star cities and see what makes them tick and buzz. Moscow and St. Petersburg are still growing apace, and hotel and restaurant prices growing accordingly, but so are visitors' options. Brush aside talk of a new Cold War and meet the diverse people of two historic and innovative cities determined to be international players of the 21st century.
Politically, 2008 is a pivotal year in Russia, at least on paper: Vladimir Putin is leaving office as president in May. While Dmitry Medvedev won the election as Putin's successor, most also expect Putin to keep a handle on power as prime minister. Time magazine named Putin person of the year for 2007, noting that he restored order and Russia's sense of pride, though through methods that have not always pleased the West. That pride can be seen in the glistening shop windows, buoyant new rich and ornate hotel lobbies. Museums, too, are slowly undergoing face-lifts, largely thanks to government oil profits.
Planning Your Trip
Visa formalities are getting both easier and harder: All hotels are now allowed to register visas, a service that small hotels in the past sometimes couldn't provide. At the same time, rules are tightening on those who apply for a visa in a third country. So if you are a U.S. citizen, it is strongly recommended that you apply through the Russian Embassy or consulates in the United States, not another country.
When you arrive in Russia, all visitors must now fill out a migration card, available on the plane or in the baggage claim area. Half of the card is collected by the immigration official upon arrival, the other half you hand over on departure. I suggest tucking it in your passport for the duration of your stay so you don't lose it.
Security issues are much the same as in any major world city: watch your pocket, and report any abandoned parcels on public transport. For the most part, though, folks you will meet in Moscow or St. Petersburg are keen to show off their cities and their culture, so long hidden and often misunderstood by the rest of the world.
Note that Moscow's telephone prefix has changed, from 095 to 495.
Getting Around
Moscow's airports are finally, though gradually, catching up to modern needs. The chief international terminal at Sheremetevo-2 is undergoing a piece-by-piece facelift that makes for occasional inconveniences but should be a boon for passengers by the end of 2008. Domodedovo Airport remains my personal favorite, especially now that passengers can check in with some airlines at the train station in the center of town, lie back and ride the rails to the terminal and avoid the city's increasingly packed roads.
Where to Stay
The mini-hotel is the fastest-growing and most exciting accommodation trend in both Moscow and St. Petersburg. Mini-hotels are either a few floors of an apartment building converted into a hotel, or a few floors of a Soviet-era hotel cleaned up to meet international standards. Whichever the method, the result is great value for money. They're usually away from the center of town but near public transport. St. Petersburg started the trend but Moscow is catching up.
One shining example is the Irbis Hotel (tel. 495/788 7272; www.maximahotels.com/irbis.htm), a surprising corner of charm and service next to the Botanical Gardens in northwest Moscow. Comfortably firm mattresses, Scandinavian-style furniture and subtle pastel décor make for a tranquil experience. Once you're on the metro, you are just 15 minutes from Red Square. If the Irbis is full, try the nearby Zarya Hotel (www.maximahotels.com/zarya.htm), run by the same company and offering the same standards and similar prices.
Another intriguing option is the aviation-themed Aeropolis (tel. 495/782 0188; www.aeropolis.ru), formerly the official hotel of flagship Russian carrier Aeroflot. Look past the drab exterior and land a room on the 12th floor, where all rooms have been recently renovated. It's great for sports fans, as it is within walking distance of the CSKA (formerly Red Army) and Dinamo hockey and soccer stadiums. It's perhaps the best deal you'll find in the moderate price range this close to the center of town.
In St. Petersburg, the Novotel St. Petersburg Centre (tel. 812/335-1188; www.accorhotels.com) has been offering impressive discounts, making it one of the most accessible in the upper-end categories. Just off the beaten path but still quite convenient to key sights, it has a quiet sophistication that the flashier facades on Nevsky Prospekt lack, along with fairly spacious rooms and luxurious French linens.
Wi-Fi internet access is a welcome addition to nearly all the upper-end hotels and many of the mid-range ones as well. Many hotels offer it for free, but be sure to ask about charges at check-in, since some tack on exorbitant connection fees. Tip: In many cases you can log on with a laptop in the hotel lobby for free.
What to See & Do
The Bolshoi Theater (www.bolshoi.ru/en) in Moscow was supposed to reopen in March 2008 after much-needed reconstruction, but increasing signs suggest it will stay shuttered through the end of the year. The columned landmark had deeper structural problems than originally thought, but the magnificent Bolshoi Ballet and Opera Company is still performing at an elegant neighboring stage. It's highly worth a visit, especially if you can swing tickets for a weekday performance of an unusual work rarely shown in your hometown. Tickets can be purchased at the old ticket office, to the left of the main theater. The Mariinsky Theater (www.mariinsky.ru/en) in St. Petersburg is operating as usual, and has a knockout program for 2008 of Mozart opera, Prokofiev ballets and more.
Shopping
The most original gifts you'll find in Russia these days are in a group of new shops opening up around Moscow by vibrant and irreverent artists and designers. Their flagship store is Byuro Nakhodok or "Lost and Found" (7/9 Smolensky Bulvar), where you'll find anything from embroidered wall-hangings to hand-carved wooden office supplies. Two offshoots are Apteka Podarkov or "Gift Pharmacy" (68 Bolshaya Ordynka) with its love potions, herbal balms and other alchemy, and Ministerstvo Podarkov or "Gift Ministry" (12/27 Maly Gnezdikovsky), flavored with Soviet kitsch.
After Dark
The bar and club scene is ever-changing in both cities. An un-missable addition to Moscow's night life is the Kalina Bar, on the 21st floor of a new office tower (8 Novinsky Bulvar; tel. 495/641-2500). This is a worthy place to dress up a bit and fill up on elegantly prepared Russian or Asian specialties, or just sip a cocktail with a view of a city that rarely sleeps.
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