Accommodations
If you're looking for the crème de la crème, try the new Hôtel Le A, 4 rue d'Artois (tel. 55-33-16-55; www.paris-hotel-a.com). Its 25 guestrooms are equipped with all of the modern amenities needed and each has an ensuite bathroom with tub and/or shower. Located near the Champs-Elysees, this luxury hotel may entice your soul, but rates are harsh on the wallet.
At Hôtel Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 36 Rue Bonaparte (tel. 43-26-00-19; www.hotel-paris-saint-germain.com), guests are embraced by lavish art pieces, grand furniture, and staff members awaiting your immediate requests. Each of the 30 rooms is individually decorated and is outfitted with bathrooms containing a shower or tub. This government-rated, three-star hotel evokes the countryside of Paris but is equipped with modern amenities, even providing a complimentary continental breakfast included in the moderate rates.
Pavillon de la Reine, 28 Place des Vosges (tel. 40-29-19-19; www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com) is an old favorite that stands on the most beautiful square of Paris. It was getting tarnished by time; however not anymore. Receiving a four-star rating from the government, it has been renovated and spruced up to match the precision of its Louis XIII styling. Today, it is winning new friends with its balance between modern sophistication and ancient elegance. The hotel's comfort level resembles that of the Ritz, with its 55 delectable units and 24-hr room service. Breakfast is served in the stone covered basement.
Transporting its guests back into the Parisian past, the newly discovered Hôtel Eldorado, 18 rue des Dames (tel. 45-22-35-21), is an inexpensive place run by the quirky, Anne Gratacos. Splashes of blues, yellows, and deep reds dance on the walls with zebra stripes and leopard prints. Climbing the crooked wooden stairs, you will find the 33 African or Asian influenced accommodations containing shower and/or tub. Don't expect luxe living, but this place is a trip.
Top-of-the-line and totally chic, Hôtel San Régis, 12 rue Jean-Goujon (tel. 44-95-16-16; www.hotel-sanregis.fr), has made a comeback. It offers all of its charm to accommodate you in comfort and style. This historic building is delightful to the eye, and the service is equally grand. The 44 individually decorated units come with the necessary amenities and plenty of space to roam around. Room no. 61 is the best. Its first-class restaurant, Le San Régis, serves traditional cuisine with new twists.
Dining
One of Paris' best kept secrets is Café Panique, 12 rue des Messangerie (tel. 47-70-06-84), where locals frequent for its easygoing atmosphere and delectable cuisine. Although this cafe opened its doors 12 years ago, foreign visitors and the press are only now discovering its mellow ambiance and scrumptious food. Even though it's been around for some time, it is the cafe's newly improved kitchen and menu that is putting it on the culinary map for the first time. Such delights as magret de canard (duckling) attract serious Parisian foodies as well as a constant stream of visitors who have only recently heard about its trendy location and charm.
Chez Ramulaud, 269 rue Faubourg St.-Antoine (tel. 43-72-23-29) may seem like the average Parisian restaurant from the outside, and on most days it pretty much is, but on any given Sunday, you will encounter the friendlier side of Paris in this almost completely gentrified neighborhood. A trio of musicians chanter French golden oldies, and a few empty wine bottles later, the foodies are singing along. The wine prices are reasonable, but the à la carte menu is about 80€ ($104) plus tip for the musicians. So, almost overnight, Chez Ramulaud has become the place to be in Paris on a Sunday.
Hordes of foodies are lining up outside Maison Kayser, 8 rue Monge (tel. 44-07-01-42), which serves the best croissants in town. This boulangerie has been making waves with its light, fluffy, yet rich croissants. Their up-to-date stainless steel oven also produces fine baguettes and loaves of bread. Prices are reasonable, and the food is well worth it.
Jean-Paul Hévin, 231 rue St.-Honoré (tel. 45-51-99-64; www.jphevin.com) reopened its doors at the end of August 2005. Chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin has mastered the fusion of chocolat with fromage. Sweet luscious chocolates with tart cheeses like Camembert or Roquefort are infused to satisfy the chocolate lover's sweet tooth. Savory chocolates are also served without cheese. The aroma leaves you captivated. New offerings on its fall menu have caused his place to become acclaimed as the finest chocolatier in Paris.
Sights
A $20 million donation has strengthened ties between the Louvre (tel. 40-20-57-60) and the world of Islam. Slated to open in 2009, the $67 million project will incorporate thousands of Islamic art through the ages. Prince Walid bin Talal agreed to donate the money to mend the relationship between France and Islam, and to better the representation of its art. The wing will be built on the Louvre's Visconti courtyard, and will resemble "a flying carpet made from an iridescent cloud," in the words of the prince. The two-level display, the lower level for light-sensitive pieces, will contrast the neo-classical Visconti courtyard, but also bridge the culture gap.
Paris' latest art gallery is right in the center of its art district, La Bastille. La Maison Rouge, 10 Blvd. de la Bastille (tel. 40-01-08-81; www.lamaisonrouge.org), is a 14, 000 sq. ft. (1,300 sq. m) contemporary space that exhibits the work of various artists. The red house, created by Antoine de Galbert, has an ever-changing decor with artists compiling new scenes at every corner. Opening hours are Wed to Sun 11am-7pm (9pm on Thurs). Admission is 6.50€ ($8.45) adults, 4.50€ ($5.85) students 3 to 18, senior citizens, and full-time artists.
Nightlife
The previous lounge, Le baron, 6 Av. Marceau (tel. 47-20-04-01), has received new owners that evoke ultra-chic European hipsters. The raunchy rouge walls, nude tiles of 1920s vixens, and the trendiest furniture attract the same type of chic customers under new management. The dance floor exudes cool and is often packed. The drinks are costly, but so is being trendy.
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