For what seemed like an eternity this fall, TV reporters screamed, "Paris is burning!," and the whole world watched in horror as angry youth rioted in the suburbs of the City of Light (or fire?). On the ground, in Paris, callous as it may sound, business went on as usual. Shoppers shopped, art lovers lined up at the Louvre and visiting kids gawked at the Eiffel Tower. Few visitors changed their plans, and by December the situation had completely calmed down. The French are engaged in an ongoing and lengthy national debate on immigration and race relations, but there's no outward display of violence on the ground. For the foreign visitor, Paris is as charming and seductive as ever.
Since the book went to press, the dollar has strengthened slightly against the euro, trading at $1.20 as opposed to $1.25. So, hopefully, by the time you get to Paris things will be slightly cheaper than stated in our guide.
Getting There
Starting December 2005, you can now book Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) seats up to 4 months prior to your trip (previously you could only book 2 months before departure). This is excellent news for the budget traveler trying to find a cheap seat on Eurostar services from London's Waterloo to Paris Gare du Nord as those seats sell out very quickly. If you can, try and book your seats exactly 4 months prior to your travel dates to get the lowest possible fare.
Budget airlines Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) continue to expand service to Paris from a variety of European cities. It is now much cheaper to fly from a plethora of cities in Italy and Germany to Paris than to take the train. The two airlines offer rock-bottom fares (as low as 35€ $43 for one way flights) from Rome, Pisa, Milan, Naples, Berlin or Venice to Paris. Flights from Glasgow, Dublin and Stockholm are now also offered for very low rates. Note that fares change frequently; try and book early, especially for spring and summer travel.
Getting Around
Recent wide-spread TV news spots reporting that the RER train from Charles de Gaulles airport to the center of Paris was pelted with rocks discouraged some travelers from this mode of transportation. Though the subway and train are quite manageable if you're traveling without baggage, the most convenient-- and safest -- mode of transport from either of the Paris airports to the city center are the comfortable coaches operated by Air France. The one way fare is 10€ ($12) and roundtrip is 17€ ($20), and buses run every 10 to 15 minutes.
Where to Stay
Budget hotels in Paris have started a craze this fall to provide wireless internet to their guests.
The highly recommended Hotel Little Regina (89 blvd. De Strasbourg; tel. 01/40-37-72-30; www.paris-hotel-little-regina.com) has added free WiFi for guests in its lobby and the affable owner, Mr. Corbel, can even arrange for an inexpensive laptop rental if you're traveling without yours.
WiFi has also been added at Hotel de France (102 blvd. De la Tour Maubourg; tel. 01/47-05-40-49; www.hoteldefrance.com). The entire establishment is proud to have just become a "hot spot."
The excellent Hotels Familia (11 rue des Ecoles, tel. 01/43-54-55-27; www.hotel-paris-familia.com) and its sister property next door, Hotel Minerve (13 rue des Ecoles; tel. 01/43-26-26-04; www.hotel-paris-minerve.com), have added wireless Internet in every one of their charming rooms.
Where to Eat
Near the Quartier Latin, Vivario, the oldest Corsican restaurant in Paris -- has recently closed its doors. Another restaurant with different owners is slated to open in that location, but plans have not been solidified yet.
Seeing the Sights
After several years of renovations, the main exhibition space at Le Grand Palais (3 av. du Général Eisenhower, 8e tel. 01/44-13-17-24; Métro: Franklin-D-Roosevelt. Admission 10€ $12.50), home to the city's most important temporary art exhibits, reopened in September 2005. Call ahead for reduced admission prices for exhibits.
On December 10, 2005, Le Petit Palais (av. Winston Churchill, tel. 01/42-65-12-73; Metro: Franklin-D-Roosevelt), home of the Paris Museum of Fine Arts, re-opened after an extensive four-year renovation. The building now has 65% more space for its permanent collection which includes prints and paintings by Renoir and Toulouse-Lautrec. The lovely mosaic floors, large windows and marble columns have all been restored. The renovation reportedly cost $80 million and the temporary exhibit space will host its first show in April 2006. Admission is free to the permanent collection.
If you're heading to Paris before February 2006, take advantage of the beautiful new ice-skating rink at the first level of the Eiffel Tower, (www.tour-eiffel.fr) 57 eters (187') above the ground with fantastic views over the city. It's capable of accommodating 100 skaters at a time and is open daily from 9:30am to 11pm. Skate rental is included in the price of admission to the 1st level of the tower.
After much haggling last year, the French authorities finally granted permission to Ron Howard to film scenes for his upcoming movie The Da Vinci Code at the Louvre. Sony has just announced that the worldwide release date for the movie, starring Tom Hanks, will be May 19, 2006. Watch out for spectacular scenes of Paris and the Louvre in this film destined to be one of the major blockbusters of 2006. Several guides offer private "Da Vinci Code" tours of the Louvre-- but those are horridly expensive, costing upwards of 95€ ($114) per person.
Talkwith fellow Frommer's travelers about saving money while in the the City of Light on our France Message Boards today.