Editor's Note: The 3rd edition of Frommer's Peru contains a number of production errors in the text, for which we apologize to both the reader and the author. In the "Peru in Depth" appendix, for example, "Inca" appears as "Incann," and throughout the book where the text should read "Inca" it instead reads "Incan." Wiley deeply regrets these errors, which will be corrected in the second printing.
In the ever-surprising (some might say depressing) world of Peruvian politics, former President Alan García (1985-1990) won a runoff election over a controversial former military man and was sworn in as president in July 28, 2006. The return of García -- who left office in disgrace and spent nine years in exile in Spain and France -- was an improbable turn of events. The race between García and the ultra-nationalist Ollanta Humala, an ally of muck-raking Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez, was widely seen in Peru as a choice between the lesser of two evils, or the election of un mal menor.
García took office with a dire warning that Peru, coming off the unpopular term of Alejandro Toledo, is a "time bomb." García hopes that his pro-business agenda will move Peru forward while reducing chronic poverty. Otherwise, he said, he anticipates that his administration will be met with widespread, crippling protests.
Another disgraced former president, Alberto Fujimori, who had been living in exile in Japan, made an attempt to return to Peru in November 2005, ostensibly to enter the presidential election in April 2006, but was arrested upon touching down in Santiago, Chile. Fujimori remains in Chile while Peruvian authorities seek to have the ex-president extradited to Peru, where he is wanted on 22 charges, from "hijacking democracy" to "directing death squads."
France recently suspended financial aid destined for the excavation and restoration of Choquequirao, a major archaelogical site of Inca ruins in the Andes (west of Cusco). France pulled out of the project because of allegations of financial mismanagement by the former First Lady, Belgian-born Eliane Karp de Toledo, who presided over the project. To date, France has invested US$3.3 million in the project. Both the French embassy in Lima and the governor of Cusco, Carlos Cuaresma, have publicly stated their hope that the suspension of payments is temporary; $1.7 million has been put on hold until an independent audit is initiated. Even before the controversy over the project's management, conservationists in Peru had criticized it, claiming it was initiated without proper technical consultation or sensitivity to the zone's biodiversity and cultural patrimony. Choquequirao has emerged as a tourist attraction and alternative to Machu Picchu, and critics claim that the importance of tourism has outweighed considerations for preservation and restoration.
The Chan Chan Archaelogical Zone, one of the most spectacular sites along Peru's north coast, remains on UNESCO's "World Heritage in Danger" list. Peruvian authorities no doubt breathed easier when they learned that sacred cow Machu Picchu did not make the list of the 100 most endangered sites, even though UNESCO had repeatedly warned in recent years that the so-called Lost City of the Incas could have its World Heritage status withdrawn if Peru did not begin to follow and enforce UNESCO's conservation recommendations for the site.
Planned construction of the Carrilluchayoc bridge, designed to connect the Santa Teresa district in the Urubamba Valley with Machu Picchu, is one of the environmental concerns still being fought over. Peru's Law of Protected Areas and Cultural Heritage prohibits construction in the zone, and an Urubamba court rejected the proposal. However, local authorities contend that the bridge is necessary to improve transportation of agricultural products of Santa Teresa's farmers and say that they intend to move forward with construction.
Another concern is the Heliexplorer, a newly revived tourist helicopter service that ferries well-heeled travelers from Cusco to Machu Picchu. Inkaterra, the hotel group that operates the upscale Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel and luxurious ecolodge Reserva Amazonica, is behind the helicopter service. A similar service existed several years ago, but was suspended over concerns that helicopters hovering above the forest, part of the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary, a national park, disturbed the wildlife's fragile ecosystem. Inkaterra contends that its Heliexplorer service is "consistent with our philosophy of environmental sustainability" and that "new technology ensures that the helicopter generates a minimum of noise and produces less carbon dioxide pollution than other means of transport." Tourists already have luxury means to visit Machu Picchu. In 2003, Orient-Express and PeruRail introduced a white-gloved luxury train service, the Hiram Bingham, to MP, tipping the scales at nearly $500 roundtrip.
Personally, I think it much better, and more consistent with the history and ethos of this magical place, to take a train (or even better, walk!) and then climb to the top of Huayna Picchu for a spectacular birds-eye, panoramic view of the ruins.
For those who do wish to travel by helicopter, the service ($895 to $2210 per person) departs Cusco Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 11am and returns at 5:30pm. On Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, it leaves Cusco at 8am and returns at 2pm. The heliport is located at the edge of the Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. For more information, call tel. 800/442-5042 or tel. 1/610-0410, or visit www.inkaterra.com.
Where to Stay
The Casa Andina hotel chain is definitely on the move. It has inaugurated a new Cusco hotel, with another on the way. Casa Andina Cusco San Blas, in the artsy and hilly San Blas quarter, has spectacular views of the city. The three-story hotel, which offers 41 rooms and is built around a traditional colonial courtyard, is located at Chihuampata, 278, San Blas, Cusco (tel. 84-25-2400; fax 84/24-2050). Rates are $96 double.
Scheduled to open imminently (August 2006) is Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco, the newest member of the chain's burgeoning luxury roster. The 72-room hotel occupies a large 16th-century colonial house only a few blocks from the main square, and features a spa, gourmet restaurant, and three courtyards. It's located on Plazoleta de Limacpampa Chico, 473, Cusco (tel. 84/23-2610; fax 84/23-2629).
The brand-new, 32-room Casa Andina Private Collection Puno is now open on the banks of Lake Titicaca. Find it at Av. Sesqui Centenario 1970-1972, Sector Huaje, Puno (tel. 51/36-3992; fax 51/36-4082). Rates are $99 double.
Check out www.casa-andina.com for further information about this hotel chain and all its locations.
The Sacred Valley of the Incas, outside Cusco, is also taking off as a luxury country-hotel destination. Libertador Tambo del Inka Urubamba will remain closed from June 2006 until February 2008 for extensive renovations, in its mission to become the only five-star hotel in the Sacred Valley.
Where to Dine
One of the fanciest new restaurants in the city was just opening when I was last in Lima, and it's worth checking out if you'd like to dine in a 350-year-old colonial mansion, a veritable house-museum with paintings on loan from the Institute of Culture: Casa Hacienda Moreyra, Av. Paz Soldán, San Isidro (tel.01/444-4022).
Lima's cosmopolitan dining scene was hailed as "the surprising new foodie destination" in the August 2006 issue of Gourmet, which highlighted celebrity chef Gastón Acurio's Astrid y Gastón, Cebichería La Mar, and T'anta restaurants (all favorites of mine and listed in Frommer's Peru). "In another ten years," says Acurio, "Lima will be like Paris. People will come here just to eat."
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