Just a few months ago, when things were going almost unthinkably well for sports-obsessed, Democratic-voting, naturally pessimistic (but also notoriously festive) Philadelphians, two Philadelphia artists designed a t-shirt. The artists, Andrew Jeffrey Wright and Thom Lessner of Philadelphia studio/gallery Space 1026, sketched a scene of eight members of the 2008 Philadelphia Phillies, who had just won Major League Baseball's World Series, effectively breaking "the curse of William Penn" by winning a major sports championship. Standing at the center of the team, wearing not a baseball uniform but a suit and tie, was Barack Obama, whom our city had helped elect the President of the United States. Printed around the unlikely grouping was a simple, sanguine message: "Barack Obama & the Philadelphia Phillies: Total Winners."
We were, to coin a phrase from Rocky, our town's eternally favorite movie, "flying higher."
Philadelphia isn't quite the same today. The recession's local fallout includes layoffs at and closures of big law firms, waning of once-booming real estate development, a major budget crisis in City Hall, along with serious threats in the form of closure of libraries, probable opening of slot-parlor-style casinos, and the threatened cancellation earlier this summer of the 25th anniversary of U.S. Pro Cycling's beloved Philadelphia International Championship .
But don't despair. This is, after all, Philadelphia, whose citizens have survived through worse circumstances in better times. Even as laid-off workers search for jobs and as million-dollar condos stand unfinished, promising city pockets continue to thrive. South Philadelphia's quaint, old-school East Passyunk neighborhood has seen a reviving influx of young residents, restaurants and shops. Historic and hip Northern Liberties welcomed a reopening of the old Schmidt's Brewery as a mixed use "piazza," with restaurants, shops, dwellings and the city's coolest outdoor event space. Pioneer chef Jose Garces continues to open modern concept restaurants such as Peruvian-Chinese Chifa, burger and top-shelf cocktail bar Whiskey Village, and a yet-unnamed market and bistro space in the old Western Union building. And, perhaps best of all, the Phils are doing pretty well this season.
Out-of-towners and stay-cationers alike can find respite from city stress with forays into some of the nation's most bodacious countryside. You might even rediscover that some of the best things in life really are free (such as pedaling a bike along the idyllic Delaware River towpath or visiting the Brandywine River Museum) or, at least, dirt cheap (like packing a picnic and catching a Saturday polo match at Tinimum Park for only five dollars a carload) -- comforting in a tight economy.
Stretch travel dollars and avoid crowds by planning mid-week trips. Room rates drop and some restaurants, like Mother's Wine Bar & Restaurant in New Hope, lure diners with exceptional weekday specials.
Of course, there are still countless splurge-worthy restaurants, antique shops, galleries (especially in increasingly gentrified, art-centric Lancaster) and lavish lodgings to enjoy. The Inn at Bowman's Hill, for example, recently made Forbes Traveler's international list of Top Ten Most Romantic B&Bs, and shopaholics will adore the distinctive merchandise at Doylestown's new Main Street Marketplace, a 2-level indoor promenade offering everything from fine wine and cheese to fabulous fashions.
The Bucks County Trolley Company provides a fun new way to take in the picturesque sights with live narrated and guided tours ranging from historic and scenic to wine and brewery excursions. In June, the new Bucks County Riverboat Company will add cocktail-and-hors d'oeuvres sunset cruises to their line-up.
Recent openings in Dutch Country feature early and late stops: Grab a decadent Fired-Up Knuckle Burger and shake for lunch at the retro-styled DJ's Taste of the 50's, packed with gleaming chrome and glowing neon, and cap the evening with a signature martini and great live music at Rosa Rosa Late Jazz, a weekend jazz venue located within Rosa Rosa Ristorante.
Three new hotels debut in Lancaster this year. Located near Rockvale Outlets and popular family attractions, Comfort Suites Amish Country is currently open. The 300-room Lancaster Marriott at Penn Square, part of the new Lancaster County Convention Center situated in the heart of the city's historic downtown, opened in June.
Accommodations
Amish Country:
- Comfort Suites Amish Country, 2343 Lincoln Highway East, Lancaster; (tel. 717/299-7000; www.comfortsuites.com) is now open.
- Lancaster Marriott at Penn Square, 25 South Queen Street, Lancaster; (tel. 717/239-1600; www.marriott.com) is now open.
- Wingate by Wyndham Lancaster-PA Dutch Country, 2110 Lincoln Highway East, Lancaster; (tel. 717/299-6605; www.wingatehotels.com/Wingate/control/Booking/property_info?propertyId=23375&brandInfo=WG) is now open.
Dining
Philadelphia:
- Bebe's BBQ opened in the Italian Market, 1017 South 9th Street.
- Former Le Bec-Fin chef Pierre Camels will soon open Bibou, a French BYOB in Bella Vista (in the former location of Pif), 1009 South 8th Street.
- Brown Betty Dessert Boutique opened a "petite" location near Rittenhouse Square at 269 South 20th Street; (tel. 215/545-0444; www.brownbettydesserts.com).
- Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse opened, 1426 Chestnut Street; (tel. 215/246-0533; www.delfriscos.com).
- Naked Chocolate Café, a chocolates, cupcakes and coffee/cocoa café, opened a third location at 31 South 18th Street; (tel. 215/564-3860; www.nakedchocolatecafe.com).
- Rick's Steaks, ousted from the Reading Terminal Market, plans a soon-to-open kiosk for the food court downstairs at the Bellevue, 200 South Broad Street; (at Walnut Street).
- Brasserie Perrier has closed.
- Philadelphia Fish & Co. has closed.
Amish Country:
- DJ's Taste of the 50's, 2410 Old Philadelphia Pike, Lancaster; (tel. 717/509-5050; www.padutchcountry.com) breakfast and lunch, Monday through Saturday.
- Mother's Wine Bar & Restaurant, 34 N. Main Street, New Hope; (tel. 215/862-5857; www.mothersnewhope.com) offers specials like $15 3-course dinners on Wednesdays and all-you-can-eat pasta nights on Thursdays, starting at $4.95.
Activities/Attractions
Amish Country:
- Brandywine River Museum, U.S. Route 1, Chadds Ford; (tel. 610/388-2700; www.brandywinemuseum.org) offers free admission on Sunday mornings between 9:30 a.m. and noon in June.
- Bucks County Trolley Company, 1469 River Road, Upper Black Eddy; (tel. 877/BC-Trolleys or 610/982-5200; www.buckscountytrolleys.com) features live narrated and guided tours on an antique trolley-style bus depart from downtown New Hope.
- Bucks County Riverboat Company, 1469 River Road, Upper Black Eddy; (tel. 610/982-5252; www.buckscountyriverboats.com) offers scenic, environmental education and dining cruises.
- Main Street Marketplace, 22 South Main Street, Doylestown; (tel. 215/345-7721; www.marketdoylestown.com).
Shopping
Phildelphia:
- Barney's Co-Op opened on Rittenhouse Square, 1811 Walnut Street; (tel. 215/563-5333; www.barneys.com).
- Beautiful Blooms Boutique a fresh flower and gift shop, opened in Northern Liberties' Liberties Walk, 1021 North 3rd Street; (tel. 215/925-3111; www.beautifulblooms.com).
- Hello Home is the new name of Antique Row's Hello World, and it has a new location: 1004 Pine Street; (tel. 215/545-5207; www.shophelloworld.com).
- Jimmy Style, a home and baby shop, opened in East Passyunk at 1820 East Passyunk Avenue (tel. 2267-687-1813; www.shopjimmystyle.com).
- Matthew Izzo moved to Old City, 151 North 3rd Street; (tel. 215/829-0606; www.matthewizzo.com).
- Zahra Saeed, a debut women's clothing boutique selling designs from the same name, opened at 1901 Walnut Street; (tel. 877/204-1131; www.zahrasaeed.com).
After Dark
Philadelphia:
- Happy hour hotspot Ladder 15 opened at 1528 Sansom Street; (tel. 215/964-9755; www.ladder15philly.com).
- Urban Saloon provides a new watering hole across the street from Eastern State Penitentiary, 2120 Fairmount Avenue; (tel. 215/808-0348; www.theurbansaloon.com).
Amish Country:
- Rosa Rosa Late Jazz, 398 Harrisburg Avenue, Lancaster; (tel. 717/509-3970; www.rosarosalatejazz.com) offers shows at 10pm and 12am every Friday and Saturday.
Talk with fellow Frommer's travelers on our Pennsylvania Forum today.