Fulfilling a nearly 15-quest to "Return to Europe", the Czech Republic joined 9 other mostly ex-Soviet Bloc countries in becoming full-fledged members of the European Union on May 1, 2004. After the fall of the Communist system in 1989, then-President Václav Havel campaigned tirelessly to gain entry in the Western European rich-man's club, alongside joining the NATO military alliance. Thousands of laws and regulations had to be changed, the entire economy had to be overhauled to harmonize with western trading and banking practices, and thousands of companies and millions of citizens went through painful reforms.
On the stroke of midnight marking May Day, Prague celebrated its EU membership with the music of Smetana and Dvorák, and a massive fireworks display in Old Town Square. For tourists, at least initially not much had changed after midnight. The Czechs will still use the Koruna (at least for the next several years) as their currency, the border controls remain in place, and there is still plenty of work ahead to raise living standards throughout the country to the EU average.
But many familiar with the pace, atmosphere and amenities of other great European capitals will see that Prague has truly taken its proper place as a modern continental city -- pulsing with the new, firmly rooted in the old. Membership will open additional travel and trade opportunities, which should lead to increased inclusion in many pan-European package tours. The expectation of EU membership has already put Prague at the heart of high-speed rail links that will link Berlin to Vienna, and Prague to Munich by the end of this decade. Superhighways connecting the Czech lands with Germany's autobahn are nearing completion.
The Internet age has also made the city more accessible. Below you'll find some of the best new ways to plug into Prague, as well as other notable changes of interest to visitors.
Planning a Trip to Prague
American, Canadian, Australian, and New Zealand citizens need only passports and no visa for stays less than 90 days. Their passports must be valid for a period of at least 90 days beyond the expected length of stay in the Czech Republic. Nationals from the European Union (United Kingdom, Ireland) can travel to the Czech Republic with passports (validity is not limited) and they are allowed to stay for an unlimited period of time. Children inscribed in their parents? passports can travel with their parents up to the age of 15. Once the child has reached the age of 15, a separate passport is necessary. For more information go to www.czech.cz
Due to a move toward tax rate harmonization within the EU, the Czech government has just recently changed the VAT rate for goods and services. As of May 2004 this has an impact on prices in restaurants, where VAT has been shifted from the 5% to 19%. Similarly, hotels and all tourist accommodation will have to increase their prices from January 2005.
There are some additions of dates to the Calendar of Events:
- Tanec Praha (Dance Prague), the festival of artistic dance, will be held from June 1 to 30.
- Slavnosti Petilistéruze in Ceský Krumlov will invite visitors on June 18 to 20.
- The 45th Chopin Festival in Mariánské Lázne will take place between August 21 and 28.
- If you will be visiting the Krivoklát Castle on October 23 and 24, you will be able to witness the popular street festival -- Renaissance Days at Krivoklát.
New additions are concerts of world-class musicians held in Prague's open air T-Mobile Park at Kolbenova, Prague 9-Vysocany (Metro: Kolbenova):
- June 6 - Paul McCartney
- June 23 - David Bowie
- June 29 - Lenny Kravitz
- July 23 - Carlos Santana
Concerts start at 7pm and tickets are available through www.ticketpro.cz from 795Kc to 2,995Kc ($28 to $107).
The Prague-based firm E-Travel has developed a website, www.travel.cz, for general Czech tourist information and accommodations. They've also developed www.apartments.cz for booking private apartments online. Start any trip-planning start here. Helpful information can also be found on the official Czech Foreign Ministry site at www.czech.cz or on the Central Europe Online site at www.centraleurope.com/ceo/czech. For general tips, check out the Prague Information Service at www.pis.cz or www.prague-info.cz.
The city's Cultural and Information Center, on the ground floor of the Municipal House (Obecní dum), námestí Republiky 5, Praha 1 (tel. 222-002-100; www.obecni-dum.cz), offers advice, tickets, souvenirs, refreshments, and restrooms.
If traveling to Prague in July or later this year, be aware that the tickets for public transportation might be more expensive since the City Hall is seriously considering a hike in the fares. No specific rise has been announced yet. Check more on www.dpp.cz.
Where to Stay in Prague
The latest additions to Prague's thin list of luxury hotels includes the Hotel Josef, Rybná 20, Praha 1 (tel. 221-700-111). For those who like a minimalist approach to interiors, this is the place to stay. Czech-born architect Eva Jiricná and her studio have decorated the interior with a glass staircase and walls and modern furniture. Here traditional comfort meets the technology of modern design and they bring to this unique space a new dimension. Right in the middle of the town, situated across the Town Hall with its Astronomical Clock, you can find the recently reconstructed 12th-century Hotel U Prince, Staromestské nám. 29 (tel. mobile 606-824-628). Don't miss a meal or drink in its roof terrace bar and restaurant, which offers magnificent views of the Old Town. Another renovated and refurbished place, the Hotel Neruda, Nerudova 44 (tel. 257-535-557) has a perfect location for exploring the Prague Castle just a few steps up the hill. Modern trends in the interior decorations here are sensitively combined within the context of a 14th-century building on this most picturesque spot in Malá Strana.
A new luxurious Hotel Aria, Trziste 9, Praha 1 (tel. 225-334-111, www.ariahotel.net) opened in the heart of Malá Strana just around the corner from the St. Nicholas Cathedral. Its design concept will enjoy especially all music lovers. Each of the four floors is tastefully decorated by Versace designers to evoke a different genre of music, famous composers and musicians. There is an impressive library of CD's, DVD's as well as books about music off the lobby and full-time resident musicologist available to help to choose or suggest a concert in the city.
Where to Dine in Prague
Hergetova Cihelna, Cihelná 2b (tel. 257-535-534), a new addition to Prague's fine dining experiences, offers an international menu in a great location on the bank of the Vltava river next to Charles Bridge. This expansive former brick factory has been divided into a restaurant, cocktail-bar, café, music lounge, and large summer terrace. The menu offers an eclectic international mix. There are starters like Tex-Mex chicken wings along baked lamb kebab or carpaccio pizza. For those who would like to have soup as a starter, I direct you to the best local potage, my favourite Czech "bramboracka" (potato soup with wild mushrooms and garlic). In itself it is a filling and pungent meal.
What to See & Do in Prague
A place with a close connection to the Vltava was recently rebuilt and opened to the public. An old mill on Kampa island has been transformed into Museum Kampa-Sovovy mlýny (tel. 257-286-147) and now presents an exhibition of Czech and Eastern European modern art. It houses Frantisek Kupka's abstract studies, paintings, and drawings. Also cubist sculptures by Otto Gutfreund are on display here, as well as a unique collection of collages by the well-regarded local artist Jirí Kolár. Additionally, the Prague National Gallery is to open a Museum of Cubism in the Dum U Cerné Matky Bozí, Celetná 34, Praha 1 (tel. 224-211-732). This unique building dating from 1912 will hold a new permanent exhibition of cubism combined with different, short-term installations. And don't miss the beautifully landscaped terraced garden Vrtbovská zahrada which has opened its gate at the foot of Petrín Hill again and is ready, after years of renovation, to welcome visitors.
Check out the Museum of Children's Drawings, U Radnice 13/8, Praha 1 (tel. 224-234-482). On Sundays, this family-friendly exhibition of tiny-tot masterpieces becomes a hands-on experience as children work on their own creations.
A new permanent exhibition called "The Story of Prague Castle" was presented at the Old Royal Palace of Prague Castle in April. It explains in details the development of country's main castle complex from prehistoric period throughout the centuries up to the present.
Open daily from 9am to 5pm, admission 140Kc ($5) adult, 80Kc ($2.85) students, 20Kc (71¢) children 6-15. For more information go to www.pribeh-hradu.cz, (tel. 224-371-111).
Sazka Arena, the newest and most modern sports arena in Europe has been christened by hosting the Ice-hockey World Championship last month. This multipurpose venue for up to 18,000 spectators offers sport, cultural and social events throughout the year. Check the www.sazkaarena.com for more.
The brand-new shopping mall Palác Flóra, Vinohradská 149, Praha 2 (tel. 255-741-700) houses several shops and boutiques. On the 3rd floor you will find names such as Mexx, Benetton, Tacchini, and Guess. The 4th floor offers dining in several restaurants, pizzerias, and cafes as well as a modern Cinemacity complex of 8 cinemas and a 3-D IMAX (tel. 255-742-021). Three-dimensional films are shown daily with frequent screenings and are usually dubbed in Czech. The admission for a 45-minute-long show is 155Kc ($5.55) adults, 109Kc ($3.89) children. Additionally, the gates will open on a brand new sports arena in Prague in Spring 2004. Sazka Arena, located in northeast Prague, is one of the most modern sports arenas of its kind in Europe. It will be tested for the first time by hosting the World Championship Ice Hockey tournament in April and May of 2004. While hockey lovers will take pride in this new landmark, it will also be a venue for many forms of cultural and social activities.
In Bohemia
Karlovy Vary
If you have some time left at the end of your stay in this spa resort, load up on the most famous local souvenir -- bottles of the spicy herbal liqueur Becherovka. A full treatment of the Becher experience can now be found at the emporium, which pays homage to the early 19th-century doctor of digestion who whipped up the concoction. The Jan Becher Museum, at T.G. Masaryka 57 (tel. 353-170-156) covers the history of the town's most coveted secret, the formula of Becherovka, which has been kept under wraps for nearly 2 centuries. And yes, you will be able to taste the finished product.
The Castle Bath, Zámecký vrch (tel. 353-222-649) is the newest addition to Karlovy Vary's list of spa houses. Opened in a rebuilt site under the Castle Tower in the oldest part of the town, this wellness center offers a comprehensive treatment programs for spa visitors.
A fresh new property with a familiar face has emerged in Karlovy Vary's venerable spa zone. Amid the rows of guest houses, which formed the phalanx of ancient Karlsbad, is the rejuvenated Hotel Krásná Královna (the Beautiful Queen Hotel), Stará Louka 335/48 (tel. 353-852-611). The original accents of this 1748 structure have been revived with brilliant colors and tasteful furniture in the lodgings and the restaurant. A gilded effigy of the Empress Marie Theresa, the Habsburg queen, hovers above the entrance, giving it an air of 18th-century Austrian elegance.
Ceský Krumlov
Many of the quirky bank-side houses under the castle in Krumlov were devastated by the floods of 2002. You can see the high-water marks still on some of the buildings. But a few places have thrived during the reconstruction and have taken the opportunity to make a fresh start. Krumlovský Mlýn (The Krumlov Mill), Siroká 80 (tel. 380-712-293) is a combination restaurant, antique shop, and exhibition space. Additionally, try strolling through the exhibition of historical motorcycles.
In Moravia
One of Brno's (and the Czech Republic's) architectural landmarks, the Villa Tugendhat, was added to Unesco's World Heritage List. This house, designed by the architect Mies van der Rohe, became a prime example of the Modern Movement in European architecture of the 1920s. You can visit this unique site at Cernopolní 45, Brno (tel. 545-212-118) on Wednesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm.