This often troubled island has been in the news a lot lately, but the good news is that the tourist infrastructure hasn't been affected by all the recent bad headlines. In May the government shut down, coming to a standstill, tossing 95,000 teachers and municipal workers out of work. The Commonwealth faced a debt of $740 million, and the Legislature was not able to agree on a budget. Things looked hopeful when the Senate passed a bill approving the first-ever sales tax in Puerto Rico, set at 5.9%. But legislative quibbling scuttled the deal.
Many in the tourist industry expressed fears that the shutdown would scare away international tourists, devastating the island economy. So far, that hasn't happened. Visitors are continuing to arrive at about the same rate as before.
On May 13, the governor of Puerto Rico, Anibal Acevedo-Vilá, sanctioned two measures authorizing a $740 million bailout loan. The Legislature also passed a sales tax, still to be determined, to help pay for the loan. When finally approved, it will affect visitors to the island, making most items, from hotel rooms to merchandise, slightly more expensive.
By mid-May Puerto Rican municipal workers had returned to their jobs where paychecks awaited them.
San Juan
Just as it was beginning to look a little too seedy, the Old Town of San Juan -- the historic quarter -- and the beachfront strip the Condado, are now undergoing restoration. Many of the historic buildings of Old San Juan, some dating back to the 18th century, are being restored.
The newest and most modern B&B in San Juan is the Coral Inn Princess, 1159 Magdalena Ave., Condado (tel. 787/977-7700; www.coralpr.com), in the heart of the beachfront strip. Kitchenettes come with the larger bedrooms, and there's a Jacuzzi and Internet access in every unit. Depending on the time of the year, rates for a double start at an affordable $99 per night.
Visitors who are heading back to San Juan at the end of their vacation, and have an early morning plane to catch, can now stay at Best Western San Juan Airport Hotel (tel. 787-791-1700; www.bestwestern.com), Main Terminal (2nd Floor), only 200 ft from the American Airlines ticket counter. Don't worry about airplane noise, as the bedrooms are soundproof. Other facilities include both a fitness and business center, plus a sundeck with Jacuzzi for that last-minute suntan before heading back to northern climes.
Even non-guests of the Caribe Hilton are discovering its sublime new restaurant, Lemon Grass, Calle los Rosales (tel. 787/724-5888; www.hiltoncaribbean.com/sanjuan). Reached by crossing wooden bridges over a manmade river, Lemon Grass enjoys an elegant pagoda-like setting in a lush garden. The chefs have taken such care as to hire a woman from Vietnam to grow special white yams, ginger, chives, and other ingredients, such as small eggplants, in the mountains. Start with lobster ceviche in a soursop lemongrass vinaigrette, or else the five-spice spareribs in a hoisin-tamarind sauce with yucca sticks. The sesame sea scallops with a chayote pumpkin and lime relish comes with a wasabi buerre blanc, and will win your heart and entice your tastebuds. Main courses cost from $29 to $31.
No one paid much attention to the 24-hour eatery, Latin Star, 1128 Ashford Ave. (tel. 787/724-8141), until recently. Suddenly, it's become chic, but only at 5am. That's when young San Juan starts piling out of the clubs and are overcome with the munchies. If you want to face mashed green plantains stuffed with octopus in the pre-dawn hours, do as the locals do and head here for that dubious dish. You can also settle for greasy fried pork chops.
One of the hottest new clubs to open in Old San Juan is Kudeta, 314 Calle Fortaleza (tel. 787/721-3548), in a three-story townhouse. From Thursday to Saturday, patrons line up to get in. The most coveted place to be -- and the costliest -- is on the third floor where patrons order "explosive" martinis with names such as "Chemical Warfare." No books are found on the second floor library, but it does feature the hottest techno DJ in town. There's a $10 cover.
Nightlife in San Juan is getting later and later, as a musical craze called "reggaetón" sweeps the city. This is a testosterone-driven style that's a combination of Jamaican reggae and such Caribbean rhythms as old-fashioned salsa and meringue with a little bachata thrown in. For a final peppery season, the music is also inspired by hip-hop. Reggaetón scenesters show up at their favorite dive, Club Lazer, 251 Calle Druz (tel. 787/725-7581), in Old San Juan. The Sunday night "Mas Flow Party" is the hottest happening on the island. The less you wear, especially if you're a woman, the more you'll fit in.
At a rival joint, the accurately named Noise is found at 203 Calle Tanca (tel. 787/724-3739), in Old San Juan. The Friday night party at this colonial style house is, as one habitué told us, "the best spot in Old Town to rub anatomy."
Rincón
In the surfing capital of the Caribbean, Calypso Café & Tropical Bar, at Maria's Beach (tel. 787/823-1626; https://home.coqui.net/calypso), is the hot spot for both local and visiting surfers. A bungalow painted in sherbet colors, it is an open-air restaurant and lively bar run by Cindie Rice, who welcomes both long-boarders and short-boarders to her dive. They head here for a sundowner and to find out when the next "full moon party" is being staged. Live bands jam from Friday to Sunday night.
Ponce
The second city of Puerto Rico has a new hotel, the Fox Delicias, 6963 Isabel St. (tel. 787/290-5050; www.foxdeliciashotel.com), offering 30 new guest rooms and suites plus an elegant dining room specializing in Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine. The hotel was created out of an old movie theater that had a tie-in with 20th Century Fox -- hence, the name.
Fajardo
The island's newest B&B has opened on the east coast. Called Passion Fruit Bed & Breakfast (tel. 800/670-3196, in Puerto Rico 787/801-0106; www.passionfruitbb.com), it lies on Route 987 at Las Croabas, outside Fajardo. In a modern building with a tower and open-air verandahs, it lives up to its namesake by offering fresh fruit from its garden served on a beautiful passion fruit-colored tablecloth with a bouquet of tropical flowers. Bedrooms are spacious and well maintained with small, tidy bathrooms. The innkeepers provide that "personal touch" offering double rooms or suites ranging from $85 to $125 a night.
Culebra
Want a deli sandwich? If so, head for El Eden Café & Deli, Flamenco Beach (tel. 787/742-0598). Run by Richard and Luz Cantell, this is the most desirable rendezvous point on the island -- and it's new. You can enjoy seafood and wine or a simple espresso at one of the mermaid-shaped café tables. If you have a housekeeping unit on the island, you can shop for gourmet goodies here as well.
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