Today, a newer and brighter Rome awaits visitors. Much of the city's dust and grime was removed for the Millennium celebrations, museums are better lit, transportation is improved, and a "second Renaissance" has been proclaimed. Here are some of the latest developments in the city that always changes but is still "eternal."
Accommodations
Innovative and high tech, Es. Hotel Rome, Via Turati 171 (tel. 06-444841), has brought new life and drama to the decaying Esquilino sector around the main rail terminus. A five-star (government rated) place, this establishment is totally modern although built on some still visible roads from the 2nd Century A.D. Fashion and entertainment mavens are flocking here to check out this hot new address.
Also on the periphery of the Termini, Royal Court, Via Marghera 51 (tel. 06-44340364), is a handsomely restored, liberty-style hotel, with many elegant touches and superior bedrooms, some with small balconies opening onto cityscapes.
Some critics have called the Boscolo Hotel Aleph, Via San Basilio 15 (tel. 06-422901), "sexy and decadent." One of the best of the so-called "new wave" hotels of Rome, this 96-room charmer lies near the Via Veneto. Elegant touches such as Murano chandeliers and a panoramic roof terrace, along with spacious bedrooms, have made it an instant hit.
In the heart of ancient Rome, Capo d'Africa, Via Capo d'Africa 54 (tel. 06-772801), was carved out of a 19th-century building in a section between the Forum and Domus Aurea in the Celio district close to the Colosseum. The look is classic but contemporary, with a panoramic rooftop terrace opening onto dusty Roman ruins. Furnishings are stylized, and the midsize bedrooms are tastefully furnished and comfortable.
At last a hotel has opened in Rome's historic Jewish quarter: Hotel Arenula, Via Santa Maria de' Calderari 47 (tel. 06-6879454). This 50-room hotel inhabits a building updated from the 19th century. A comfortable, family-run establishment, it is tastefully furnished. Be prepared to climb some stairs, however.
Small hotels are blossoming around the Piazza de Spagna and the Piazza de Popolo, long considered the most desirable spot for hotels in Roma. These include La Lumière di Piazza di Spagna, Via Belsiana (tel. 06-69380806), a little ten-room inn that was carved out of a 5-story Roman town house from the 1700s. Rooms for the most part are spacious and handsomely furnished. There's even an elevator. Right off Piazza del Popolo stands the 32-room Piranesi, Via del Babuino 196 (tel. 06-328041), a choice boutique hotel in a district long known for attracting poets, writers, and artists. Bedrooms are minimalist, evocative of the Directoire movement of the 1700s. Yet another charmer, and most affordable, is Casa Banzo, Piazza del Monte di Pietà 30 (tel. 06-6833909), a 7-room inn that is one of Rome's most elegant and undiscovered B&Bs. In the heart of Renaissance Rome, this inn is in a restored palace from the 1500s.
Dining
Although Piazza Navona is arguably one of the most beautiful squares in Mediterranean Europe, literally thousands of diners have become fed up with the high prices at its tourist trap restaurants. Diners are now branching off and making marvelous little discoveries on offshoot alleys, streets and squares in ancient Rome. Typical of these is Montevecchio, Piazza Montevecchio 22A (tel. 06-6861319), serving savory Roman and Italian cuisine. Another winner, Myosotis, Vicolo della Vaccarella 3-5 (tel. 06-6865554), lies between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. It often uses old-fashioned country recipes to prepare its memorable Italian dishes. An previously undiscovered osteria, Osteria dell'Antiquario, Piazzetta di S. Simeono, Via dei Coronari 26-27 (tel. 06-6879694), is becoming known for its international and Roman cuisine served in a converted 16th century stable. This is your chance to try filet of ostrich.
Another offbeat trattoria near Piazza Navona receiving media attention is Osteria dell'Ingegno, Piazza di Pietra 45 (tel. 06-6780662), serving classic Roman cuisine that incorporates some innovative touches. Dishes are flavorful and often use fresh aromatic herbs. In-the-know locals have tried to keep L'Orso 80, Via dell'Orso 33 (tel. 06-6864904), a secret, but the word is out. Foreign visitors are flocking to this trattoria with its tasty Roman dishes and beautifully prepared and freshly caught seafood.
Two restaurants, also near Piazza Navona, are neck and neck in terms of the authenticity of their Roman dishes. Macceroni, Piazza della Copelle 44 (tel. 06-68307895), is a rustic tavern that serves some of the finest produce harvested in the Latium countryside. Osteria del Gallo, Vicolo di Montevecchio 27 (tel. 06-6873781), attracts discerning foodies with its homemade pastas and salt-roasted fish.
Exploring
The newly-clean Tiber has become a popular place for boat excursions. The best are conducted aboard Battelli di Roma (tel. 06-6929-4147), which runs water buses under the Roman bridges that span the river. It's a picture postcard view of both ancient and Renaissance Rome, and gives numerous landmarks a new perspective.
Shopping
More and more visitors are discovering that Florence's most famous perfumery and apothecary has opened a branch in Rome near the Piazza Navona. Officina Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella at Corso del Rinascimento 47 (tel. 06-687-2446), sells creams, exotic soaps and essences, and even lotions based on 16th century formulas.
Some of the finest crafts in Rome, particularly pottery and ceramics, are showcased at the handsomely restored outlet of Myricae, Piazza del Parlamento 38 (tel. 06-6873742). Some of the chocolate confections are handmade by Cistercian monks.
After Dark
Constructed in 2002, Parco della Musica, Viale de Coubertin 15 (tel. 06-802411), has reached its stride as the largest concert facility in Europe, offering three separate concert halls and one spacious open-air theater. As the millennium marches forward, it has become one of the great cultural venues in Europe. Check to see what the offerings are at the time of your visit.
Side Trips
In the hills of Rome, one of the most popular attractions is the Villa Gregoriana at Tivoli, also the site of Hadrian's fabled villa. After many decades, authorities have decided to close the attraction for a much-needed restoration. No date of re-opening has been announced, but it is anticipated that these 19th-century gardens, built by Pope Gregory XVI in the 19th-century, may not be receiving visitors for much, or all of 2005. Check locally at Tivoli for the status of these splendid gardens.