The desperate days are behind the City by the Bay. Those who in the past few years took advantage of San Francisco's dip in tourism and its lackluster economy to find cheaper and more readily available hotels and restaurants might be disappointed that the city is back on her feet. On the bright side, San Francisco is much more exciting because of it. Hotels are hopping, swank new restaurants are opening faster than the maitre d's can say, "I'm sorry, we only have a table available at 5:30 or 9pm," and new construction along the continually evolving mecca of the Embarcadero promises more reasons to walk along the bayfront promenade. Yes, San Francisco's swinging, so if you're headed here anytime soon, check out the latest happenings below to make sure you get the most out of your trip.
Where To Stay
Over the past several years many of the city's hotels have been upgrading their rooms, making a stay by the Bay that much more comfortable. But 2005 was the year of the new hotel, with additions ranging from rock-bottom budget to highfalutin' fabulous. On the lower end of the spectrum is Elements Hotel, 2524 Mission St (tel. 866/327-8407 or 415/647-4100; www.elementshotel.com), the Mission District's new and very stylish youth hostel that's as vibrant and colorful as the nightlife and restaurants surrounding it. Hotel Vitale, 8 Mission St. (tel. 888/890-8868 or 415/278-3700; www.hotelvitale.com), a more luxurious hotel, sits across from the Ferry Building Marketplace. Designed from the ground up, rooms are sleek and chic, but the best thing going for them are gorgeous views of the water and Bay Bridge. Tipping the luxury scale is another new construction near the MOMA -- the St. Regis Hotel, San Francisco, 125 Third St. (tel. 877/787-3447; www.stregis.com). It had yet to open when this book went to press, but all indications suggest it'll be a top luxury contender when it opens in late 2005. Though it hit the scene over a year ago, Hotel Carlton, 1075 Sutter St. (tel. 800/922-7586 or 415/673-0242; www.carltonhotel.com), made the new additions cut because though it's located a wee bit off the tourist trail (and in the rather ho-hum dreary outskirts of Union Square and Civic Center), it's an attractive and extremely well-priced option.
Where To Dine
This year also marked the resurgence of fancy destination restaurants, the most chichi of which is Michael Mina, 335 Powell St. (tel. 415/397-9222; www.westin.com). The Westin St. Francis's new white-tablecloth dining room is the sexiest place of the moment with an ¿berluxury new take on small plates and a mammoth wine list. Alas, visitors can no longer come to the room for tea at the Compass Rose, but so far city folks aren't complaining -- especially when they get 18 different tastes during what is technically a three-course meal. My favorite for downtown fine dining is Campton Place, 340 Stockton St., (tel. 415/955-5555; www.camptonplace.com). Apparently, I'm not the only one. The young chef behind the exquisite European cuisine, Daniel Humm, was a Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef award winner in 2005 -- and he was nominated for a James Beard, too. Across Market Street at Fifth Floor, 12 Fourth St. (tel. 415/348-1555; www.fifthfloor.citysearch.com), three gals are taking the already excellent restaurant to new heights since the departure of chef Laurent Gras. Thankfully, one of them is chef Melissa Perello who has garnered two James Beard nominations in the past two years. Another is Marika Doob, one of the city's best pastry chefs, and the third is Emily Wines, who appropriately oversees the wine list. My favorite casual newcomers are Bocadillos, 710 Montgomery St. (tel. 415/982-2622), and Levende Lounge, 1710 Mission St. (tel. 415/864-5585; www.levendelounge.com). Bocadillos is another home run by Basque chef Girald Hirigoyen (who also owns the excellent Piperade). But this Financial District spot is far more casual and serves outstanding tapas. Levende Lounge is the Mission's hottest thing going, where excellent small plates, which deserve to be served in a more serious dining setting, are combined with DJ music and an ever-jumping bar scene.
Attractions
After closing for several years so a completely new building could be constructed, the de Young Museum, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., (tel. 415/682-2481; www.famsf.org), is scheduled to reopen in Golden Gate Park in October 2005. The excellent collection includes American paintings, African arts, sculptural and decorative arts, and textiles.
Shopping
As if San Francisco didn't already offer enough reasons to beg your credit card company to up your spending limit, consider the latest additions to the shopping scene: France's Diptyque, 171 Maiden Lane (tel. 415/402-0600), opened a downtown boutique where you can buy their to-die-for candles at heart-stopping prices. In Hayes Valley, which continues to expand as the epicenter of cool clothing and furnishings, True Sake, 560 Hayes St., (tel. 415/355-9555; www.truesake.com), is America's first shop dedicated to rice wines ranging from cheap and quaffable to fancy stuff with gold flecks and rare finds at triple-digit prices. Around the corner, RAG, 541 Octavia St. (tel. 415/621-7718; www.ragsf.com), is where to go if you want to snag affordable one-of-a-kind and rarely found fashions for men and women alike, all of which are made by up-and-coming local designers. Speaking of one of a kind, San Francisco's hot new perfumer Julie Elliott opened a small boutique downtown called Showroom by In Fiore, 868 Post St. (tel. 415/928-5661; www.infiore.net). Make an appointment and see why her body balms, oils, and facial serums garner loyal celebrity fans such as Julia Roberts and Steven Tyler.
Wine Country
One of Napa Valley's most luxurious resorts, Auberge du Soleil, 180 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford (tel. 800/348-5406 or 707/963-1211; www.aubergedusoleil.com), just underwent major room renovations, making the hill-hugging resort an even more celestial escape. Meanwhile, Auberge Resorts opened a sister property in late 2004. Called Calistoga Ranch, 580 Lommel Rd., Calistoga (tel. 707/254-2800; www.calistogaranch.com), it's my new favorite hotel. Unfortunately, it's prohibitive at more than $500 per night. On the more affordable end of the spectrum, retro motel and spa Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs, 1507 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga (tel. 707/942-4102; www.drwilkinson.com), has a new cottage just for facials. It's sweet, private, secluded, and, best of all, the facials are superb.
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