It's been a rough few years for San Francisco. Since 2000, the City by the Bay has been struggling to regain its footing after backlash from the dot-com debacle, the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, the war with Iraq, and recent economic downturns. The good news is that hotels that poured millions into renovations during the recent high-rolling heydays are now offering seriously discounted rates. Restaurants, too, are luring diners with discounted menus and easier access to reservations. Until the inevitable rebound, a visit to San Francisco will cost you far less than it did 4 years ago.
Where To Stay
Hotel rates in San Francisco are still substantially discounted. Shop the Internet or call hotels directly for the best bargains. The Palace Hotel, 2 New Montgomery St. (tel. 800/325-3535 or 415/512-1111; www.sfpalace.com), gussied up its guest rooms and is now far more homey and hospitable. Campton Place Hotel, 340 Stockton St. (tel. 800/235-4300 or 415/781-5555; reserve@campton.com), got a new chef in spring 2002 when previous chef Laurent Manrique departed to oversee Aqua and its sister restaurants.
The former Clarion Bedford Hotel, 761 Post St. (tel. 800/252-7466 or 415/673-6040; www.hotel-cosmo.com), changed its name to Hotel Cosmo to match its new budget-retro look. Previously stodgy Shannon Court, 550 Geary St. (tel. 800/228-8830 or 415/775-5000; www.shannoncourt.com), got a new name -- Hotel Adagio -- and new interiors under the creative eye of the Joie de Vivre hotel group. The York Hotel, 940 Sutter St. (tel. 800/808-9675 or 415/885-6800; www.yorkhotel.com), makes an encore appearance in this guide, with great rates, clean rooms, and a helpful staff.
Where To Dine
The year 2003 left lots of restaurant closures in its wake, including Le Bistrot and Gordon's House of Fine Eats. On the bright side, veteran chef Gerald Hirigoyen, who owns popular Fringale, 570 Fourth St. (tel. 415/543-0573), opened Piperade, 1015 Battery St. (tel. 415/391-2555), a brilliant new Basque restaurant that's definitely worth seeking out.
The biggest news on the culinary front is the arrival of Roxanne's, 320 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur (tel. 415/924-5004). It's raw, organic, vegan, and a totally unique dining experience worth the detour to Marin County. Fancy French favorite Fleur de Lys, 777 Sutter St. (tel. 415/673-7779), renovated their interior, reworked their menu, and reopened after a kitchen fire. Nearby at Grand Café, 501 Geary St. (tel. 415/292-0101), talented chef Paul Arenstam puts a polished spin on the previously uneven French bistro menu.
A few blocks up, Le Colonial, 20 Cosmo Place (tel. 415/931-3600), lost some of its luster when it changed chefs. Famed seafood stop Aqua, 252 California St. (tel. 415/956-9662), welcomed Campton Place chef Laurent Manrique after chef Michael Mina and the restaurant parted ways. The jury's still out on the results. (Keep an ear open, however; Michael's poised to do something new soon). Vegans listen up: Millennium moved from the Civic Center to the Savoy Hotel at 580 Geary St. (tel. 415/487-9800).
Feel like stepping out in style around Union Square? Head to Ruby Skye, 420 Mason St. (tel. 415/693-0777), downtown's most posh place to groove to DJ sounds.
Attractions
There's good news in the attractions area. The Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, Embarcadero at Market St. (tel. 415/353-5650; www.saturdaymarket.com), moved to the newly renovated Ferry Building Marketplace, which also houses epicurean favorites such as Cowgirl Creamery's Artisan Cheese Shop, Peet's Coffee & Tea, Recchiuti Confections (amazing!), Scharffen Berger Chocolate, and Wine Country's gourmet diner Taylor's Refresher.
As this book goes to press, the gorgeous and historic Conservatory of Flowers, Golden Gate Park (tel. 415/831-2700; www.conservatoryofflowers.org), is scheduled to reopen after a major renovation to its delicate and dazzling glass design; call to confirm it has indeed reopened before you try to go.
The Asian Art Museum, 200 Larkin St. (tel. 415/581-3500; www.asianart.org), now shows off one of the nation's largest Asian art collections in its newly renovated Civic Center digs. Cliff House, at Ocean Beach, is undergoing an extreme renovation (which began in 2003), but it remains open to visitors. My favorite attraction at Cliff House -- the Musée Mécanique -- is no longer at the restaurant's site. It has been relocated to a temporary location at Pier 45 (tel. 415/346-2000; museemecanique.citysearch.com). There's no saying where its permanent home will be.
In 2001, I mourned the loss of home accessories, furniture, and housewares store Fillamento. However, the new , ultramodern home-design hot spot, Propeller, at 555 Hayes St. (tel. 415/701-7767; www.artbusiness.com), has great übermodern furniture and home accessories from all over the world.
In the wine country fab food is still a big draw, and two new additions up the culinary ante in Napa Valley. Market, 1347 Main St., St. Helena (tel. 707/963-3799), welcomes budget-minded diners with a contradictory combo of cheap American comfort food and swank surroundings. In downtown Napa, the Rouas restaurant family opened Angèle, 540 Main St., Napa (tel. 707/252-8115), which features updated French classics and cozy-chic environs.