The only thing constant in the world of travel is change, and Seattle is no exception. Despite slow economic times brought on by the dot-com crash, Seattle continues to be a vibrant vacation destination. Highlighted below are some of the most significant developments in the city this past year.
Orientation
If you're flying into Sea-Tac International Airport (www.seatac.org/seatac), expect to encounter construction. The central terminal is in the midst of a major expansion that is expected to be completed sometime in 2005. Concourse A is being completely rebuilt and is scheduled to reopen in mid-2004. So, leave lots of time for getting around the airport. Of course, you were already planning on extra time in the airport due to security measures, right? Oh yes, and if you're looking for a shuttle van or taxi, be sure to head to the third floor of the parking garage. If you're looking for a Metro bus, you'll find them outside the baggage claim area.
Accommodations
The big news on the Seattle hotel scene is the opening of the new Seattle Marriott Waterfront, 2100 Alaskan Way (tel. 800/228-9290 or 206/443-5000; www.marriott.com), a luxury hotel right across the street from where cruise ships bound for Alaska dock.
The WestCoast Vance Hotel, 620 Stewart St. (tel. 800/325-4000 or 206/441-4200; www.westcoasthotels.com/vance), has long been one of our favorite budget downtown hotels. However, an upcoming major renovation will likely cause room rates to rise.
Dining
With the slow economic times, 25 of Seattle's high-end restaurants have been joining together for a month in the spring and again in the fall to offer three-course prix fixe dinners for $25. This "25 for $25" program has been very popular, but unfortunately is not offered during the busy summer months. However, if you happen to be in town during the spring or fall, check local papers for advertisements for this program.
If you have a weakness for pastries and happen to find yourself in the Fremont neighborhood, be sure to search out The Essential Baking Company, 1604 N. 34th St. (tel. 206/545-3804), a rustic bread bakery and pastry shop. In the International District, don't miss the atmospheric Panama Hotel Tea & Coffee House, 607 S. Main St. (tel. 206/515-4000), which is filled with historic photos and offers a fascinating glimpse into the neighborhood's past.
Sightseeing
The Seattle Aquarium, Pier 59, 1483 Alaskan Way (tel. 206/386-4300; www.seattleaquarium.org), has added a new exhibit called Life of a Drifter, which focuses on jellyfish. The pulsing, diaphanous moon jellies are fascinating to watch. There are also new tanks for the aquarium's giant octopus and its hideous wolf eels.
Fans of contemporary art won't want to miss the new James Turrell Skyspace at the Henry Art Gallery, University of Washington, 15th Avenue NE and 41st Street NE (tel. 206/543-2280; www.henryart.org). The little sky-viewing room is a tranquil and mesmerizing space. At night, colored lights illuminate the glass outer skin of the Skyspace.
The Seattle Seahawks (tel. 888/NFL-HAWK or 206/381-7816; www.seahawks.com) football team has now moved into the new Seahawks Stadium adjacent to Safeco Field. The roof of this behemoth doesn't roll back (as the roof of adjacent Safeco Field does), but then, who ever heard of calling off a football game on account of rain?
Nightlife
Opera fans, take note. The Seattle Opera (tel. 800/426-1619 or 206/389-7676; www.seattleopera.org), world renowned for its stagings of Wagner's The Ring of the Nibelungen, has a new state-of-the-art home. Seattle Center's new Marion Oliver McCaw Hall opened in the summer of 2003, replacing the aging Seattle Opera House.
The Concerts at Marymoor, 6046 W. Lake Sammamish Pkwy. NE (tel. 206/628-0888; www.concertsatmarymoor.com), is one of the latest summertime outdoor concert series to bring big names to Seattle. The concerts are held in a large park a 20- to 30-minute drive east of Seattle.
The White River Amphitheatre, 40601 Auburn-Enumclaw Rd., Auburn (tel. 360/825-6200; www.whiteriverconcerts.com), is an even bigger venue, bringing in even bigger acts. This new amphitheater is located on the Muckleshoot Indian Reservation 35 miles southeast of Seattle.
On Pike Place Market's Post Alley, you'll find The Tasting Room, 1924 Post Alley (tel. 206/770-WINE;www.winesofwashington.com), a cozy wine bar with the feel of a wine cellar. This wine bar is cooperatively operated by several small Washington State wineries.
Excursions
Fares on the Washington State Ferries (tel. 800/84-FERRY or 888/808-7977 in Washington, or 206/464-6400; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) route to the San Juan Islands continue to skyrocket. At press time, it will now cost you (and your car) as much as $40 to travel from the mainland to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.
For economical meals in Friday Harbor, check out The Market Chef, 225 A St. (tel. 360/378-4546), a new combination espresso bar and gourmet takeout restaurant that also bakes outrageously good chocolate chip cookies. Although it's hard to find, Backdoor Kitchen & Catering, 400b A St. (tel. 360/378-9540), another new and inexpensive restaurant, is well worth searching out. It has a patio dining area that is part of a plant nursery.
On Orcas Island, Rosario Resort & Spa, 1400 Rosario Rd., Eastsound (tel. 800/562-8820 or 360/376-2222; www.rosarioresort.com), is planning a major renovation in time for the 2004 summer season. This resort was already the finest full-service resort in the islands, and the renovation should make it even better.
Not far away, The Inn at Ship Bay, 326 Olga Rd., Eastsound (tel. 877/276-7296 or 360/376-5886; www.innatshipbay.com), has a new chef who formerly worked at Rosario Resort & Spa.
Tacoma
Art mavens and those enthralled with art glass should be sure to make an excursion south from Seattle to Tacoma where the new Museum of Glass, 1801 Dock St. (tel. 800/4-MUSEUM or 253/396-1768; www.museumofglass.org), and the new Tacoma Art Museum, 1701 Pacific Ave. (tel. 253/272-4258; www.tacomaartmuseum.org), are turning this often-disparaged city into the Northwest's other major cultural destination.