Situated at the center of the Mediterranean, the island of Sicily was once one of the great centers of civilization in the Western world. Everything here is different from the Italian mainland, even the hybrid Sicilian dialect and the many place names tinged with Arabic in memory of the island's long-ago conquerors. The Greeks, the Romans, the Muslims, the Normans, and the Spaniards all passed through here and left their marks; much of that ancient past remains. But Sicily is also modern -- and forever changing. Here are some of the latest developments.
Palermo
The hotel scene here is relatively stabilized, but two new restaurants have made headlines. Il Mulinazzo, S.S. 121, Località Bolognetta Nord, Villafrati (tel. 091-8724870; www.mulinazzo.it), has become the best restaurant on the island and one of the finest south of Rome. With its finely tuned Sicilian cuisine, it is near perfect -- both in the preparation of its food and in the use of quality ingredients. Giving it some competition is I Ristorantino, Piazzale Alcide De Gasperi 19 (tel. 091-512861), which offers one of Palermo's best Sicilian and Mediterranean cuisines. The creative menu is well crafted; sample such marvelous dishes as lobster tortellini with cherry tomatoes.
Ustica
This volcanic offshore island's Hotel Clelia, Via Sindaco I, 29 (tel. 091-8449039; www.hotelclelia.it), long a simple pensione, has been vastly upgraded and given three-star status by the government. Its prices remain reasonable, but it's now one of the better addresses for those seeking comfortable living on their visit to this remote island. Soundproof windows and modern plumbing have improved living conditions here considerably.
Also on Ustica, a local eatery, Schiticchio, Via de Tre Mulini (tel. 091-8449662), came into prominence in summer 2004 when it was one of the most fully booked restaurants on the island. Relatively modest, it serves good homemade food from the freshest ingredients -- mainly regional dishes with a focus on fresh fish and shellfish.
Cefalù
More readers are discovering this north-coast town's Hotel Tourist, Lungomare Giardina (tel. 0921-421750; www.touristhotel.it), than any other hotel in the vicinity. The inn was extensively renovated in 2003, making it an even more attractive choice for visitors basing themselves in Cefalù. Word quickly got out about this affordable option, located a 10-minute walk from the center of town. Try to get one of the well-furnished guest rooms with a balcony opening onto a seascape.
Taormina
In Sicily's more elegant resort, a down-home restaurant is rising to the fore: Osteria Nero D'Avola, Vico de Spuches 8 (tel. 0942-628874), which not only serves some of the most affordable food in town, but also some of the best. The chef changes the menu daily, shopping for the freshest ingredients at the marketplace. His cooks prepare finely honed Sicilian fare backed up by a wine carte of some 200 different vintages.
Catania
Way back in 1968, Giuseppe La Rosa established La Siciliana, Viale Marco Polo 52A (tel. 095-376400; www.lasiciliana.it), in the north of the city. In 2004, it suddenly became the dining address of choice for many locals, who've also recommended it to visitors to Catania. Today, Vito and Salvo, sons of Guiseppe, have brought renewed energy to this old favorite, which is beginning to attract discriminating diners to its inviting precincts for the fine Sicilian cuisine. Everything tastes fresh and homemade, just the way locals like it.
Syracuse
An old palazzo in the heart of the monument-loaded island of Ortygia has been turned into B&B Airone, Via Maestranza 111 (tel. 0931-69005), one of the city's most inviting bed-and-breakfasts. It's simple but comfortable here, and the hospitality of the owners and their affordable prices keep the place full.
Piazza Armerina
The sleepy taste buds of this provincial inland town are being awakened by an intriguing choice, Al Fogher, Contrada Bellia, Strada Statale 117 (tel. 0935-684123; www.alfogher.com), which has opened 3km (1 3/4 miles) north of the center. Its wine cellar, with some 400 different vintages, is the best in this part of the island, and the Sicilian food is creative, beautifully seasoned and flavored, and prepared to perfection.
Incidentally, thanks to quite a lot of international publicity in travel magazines in 2004, more and more visitors to Piazza Armerina are budgeting time for a side trip to the old town of Caltagirone, lying 30km (18 miles) to the southeast. It is the center of earthenware potteries, and buyers are flocking here to wander through its old-fashioned shops.
Agrigento
Visitors exploring the world's most impressive Greek ruins, at the Valley of the Temples, are heading 2km (1 1/4 miles) southwest of the center to a new and inviting hotel that opens onto the Mediterranean. Hotel Kaos, Contrada Cumbo, Villaggio Pirandello (tel. 0922-598622), was formed by converting the residence of a nobleman into this well-run lodging, and absorbing some of the original outbuildings as well. It has immediately become a family favorite, with an on-site outdoor swimming pool and two tennis courts.
Trapani
This is the major city along the western coast of the island, and, for many, their center for exploring the nearby towns of Erice and wine-producing Marsala. The dining situation in Trapani has improved considerably with the opening of P & G, a Sicilian and seafood restaurant at Via Spalti 1 (tel. 0923-547701). Located near the train station, the restaurant lies across from the public gardens of Villa Margherita. It is clearly the best choice in town, specializing in market-fresh ingredients and succulent homemade pastas.
Talk about Sicily on our Italy Message Boards today.