Here's a recap of important changes affecting travelers that occurred in the South Pacific islands from 2001, when the previous edition of this book was prepared, until this edition went to press early in 2004.
Tahiti & French Polynesia
Aranui Cruises (www.aranui.com) is now using the 200-passenger Aranui III for its cruises between Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands. The new vessel is more luxurious than its predecessor, the 90-passenger Aranui II, but still has dormitory-style accommodations. Princess Cruises (www.awcv.com/princess.html) has taken over from Renaissance Cruises and now operates the 700-passenger Tahitian Princess (click here ) on 10-day cruises through the Society Islands. Its sister ship, the Pacific Princess, spends part of the year in French Polynesia. The live-aboard dive boat Tahiti Aggressor now makes 1-week cruises between Rangiroa and Fakarava in the Tuamotu islands.
On Tahiti, the luxurious Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti (www.radisson.com/aruefrp) was scheduled to open in 2004 on a black-sand beach in Arue, 7km (4 miles) east of downtown Papeete. The new Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa (www.tahitinuitravel.com/webcam/moorea) sits on the former site of the fabled Hotel Bali Hai. It has a mix of bungalows and hotel rooms.
Joining Moorea's restaurant scene are Les Nouveaux Mondes in Pao Pao, offering traditional French fare under a soaring thatch roof, and Le Sud in Maharepa, with Spanish- and Italian-influenced fare from the le sud de France. On Moorea's northwest coast, Chez Capo offers a taste of authentic Tahitian food.
The Club Bali Hai has closed its bayside bar, bringing to an end the South Pacific's best happy hours. You can still bring your own, however, and imbibe with Muk McCallum, one of the original Bali Hai Boys. The club's sunken bar is now occupied by The Blue Pineapple, which serves inexpensive breakfasts and lunches with an incomparable view.
The hotel building boom continues on Bora Bora, highlighted by the super-luxe St. Regis Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa, on Motu Toopua, (www.starwoodtahiti.com/boraboranui) which is a 15-minute boat ride from the main island. Its bungalows are among the largest in French Polynesia, but they don't have the trademark view of the island's tombstone-like Mt. Otemanu. Lower down on the scale is the new Bora Bora Beach Resort, (www.tahitinuitravel.com/webcam/borabora) a fancy motel in the heart of the Matira hotel district.
On a small islet off Tahaa, and with a great view of Bora Bora, the new Le Taha'a Private Island & Spa (tel. 69-84-00; www.letahaa.com) is one of French Polynesia's most luxurious resorts. It's also the most remote resort in the Society Islands.
Out in the Tuamotu islands, the lagoonside Rangiroa Beach Resort (tel. 689/54-06-72, fax: 689-42/76/80) was to open in 2004 with 38 bungalows and a moderate price. The northern Tuamotu atoll of Fakarava now has an international-standard resort, the Hotel Maitai Dream (tel. 98-43-00; www.hotelmaitai.com), a 28-bungalow complex beside French Polynesia's second largest lagoon, which is so rich in sealife it has been designated a nature preserve by the United Nations.
The Cook Islands
Of several new accommodations built on Rarotonga recently, the most Tahitian is Rarotonga Beach Bungalows, (www.rarobeachbungalows.com) a 5-unit complex next to the Moana Sands Hotel and its new restaurant, the very good Paw Paw Patch. The island's swankiest new digs are at the adults-only Reflections on Rarotonga. Two of the three units face Muri Beach and have private pools, two bedrooms, and two baths, which make them good choices for couples who want to share.
Although it's not as charming or well-furnished, the new Takitumu Villas (tel. 24-682;www.takitumuvillas.co.ck) beside Titikaveka Lagoon has 10 bungalows aimed at romantic couples. Its bathrooms come equipped with whirlpool tubs. The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa (www.rarotongan.co.ck) continues to improve and is now the island's top full-service hotel. All rooms have been substantially renovated, four beach suites now have kitchens and rooftop decks, and there's a large honeymoon bungalow. The immensely popular Vara's Beach House (tel. 682-23156; www.varas.co.ck) has gotten better with the addition of four budget-priced studio suites with kitchens and bathrooms, which appeal to more than young folk carrying backpacks.
Rarotonga is no longer a culinary wasteland, thanks in large part to the Windjammer Restaurant in Arorangi, where the Asian-influenced cuisine is the island's best, and the sophisticated Paw Paw Restaurant & Bar, in the Moana Sands Hotel at Titikaveka.
Up in Aitutaki, which is becoming one of the South Pacific's hottest destinations, the Cook Islands got its most romantic and architecturally stunning hotel when the Pacific Resort Aitutaki (tel. 31-720; www.pacificresort.com) opened in 2002. Built on a rocky headland overlooking a white sand beach, it has bungalows by the beach plus suites and villas almost hidden among the rocks and old-growth forest on the headland. Among a number of "beach bungalow" complexes built recently on Aitutaki is Ranginui's Retreat, (tel. 682-31657; www.pacific-resorts.com/ranginui) a nine-unit complex across the pass from the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa (www.aitutakilagoonresort.com).
On the dining scene, the new Cafe Tupuna (tel. 31-678) is the charming creation of Tupuna Hewett, a former dressmaker, florist, and artist. It's at her home in the middle of the island. Samade Beach Bar & Restaurant is now known as Samade on the Beach and is open daily from 7am to 9pm, offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Fiji
All e-mail addresses in Fiji have changed. Instead of ending with is.com.fj after the dot, all addresses now end with connect.com.fj. For example, "hideaway@is.com.fj" is now "hideaway@connect.com.fj."
Air Fiji now offers an Air Pass to North American travelers. It includes any four flights for US$270. That's a savings if you're going to Suva, Taveuni, and Savusavu. Sunbeam Transportation Ltd. (tel. 666-2822) has introduced a "Uro Fare" of F$59 (US$35) on its non-air-conditioned express buses, which run counter-clockwise all the way around Viti Levu. Riders can get off and on eight times. It's primarily useful to backpackers and other adventurous travelers.
About 15 minutes north of Nadi airport, the 32-bungalow First Landing Beach Resort & Villas (tel. 679/666-6171; click here) has developed into a fine place for a short bayside layover. Its waterfront restaurant is popular with locals for a weekend lunch. On Wailoaloa Beach between the airport and Nadi Town, the new Aquarius Fiji (click here) is Fiji's most luxurious inexpensive resort. Actually two merged condos, it has air-conditioned dorm rooms for backpackers, but the four upstairs rooms overlooking the beach and swimming pool are attractive to anyone on a budget. There's a bar and inexpensive restaurant.
Getting to the Yasawa Islands has never been easier now that Awesome Adventures Fiji (tel. 675 0499; www.awesomefiji.com) is operating the Yasawa Flyer, a fast, air-conditioned, 150-passenger catamaran, daily from Denarau Island.
In the Yasawas, the inexpensive Safe Landing Resort (www.sunvacationsfiji.com/packs/resorts/) is similar to the very good Oarsman's Bay Lodge (www.sunvacationsfiji.com/packs/resorts). It's on the same island, has almost as good a beach, and its rates are virtually the same.
On the Coral Coast, the Kalevu South Pacific Cultural Centre (tel. 679/6520-200; www.fijiculturalcentre.com) has been enlarged to include more than Fiji. It has full-day tours three times a week, including a traditional island lunch.
Suva has the spiffy new Tanoa Plaza Hotel, (www.tanoahotels.com) which quickly grabbed a hearty share of the business travelers to the capital. The former Berjaya Hotel, it was completely gutted, renovated, and reopened by the local Tanoa Hotels chain. The new Malt House Brewery & Restaurant in the Suva suburbs near the golf course serves some of the best food in Fiji, and you can sample the microbrews before choosing among the lager, ale, or dark beers.
In northern Fiji, the 42m (140-ft.) sailing schooner Tui Tai (www.tuitai.com) has been refitted and now carries up to 25 passengers on 4-day ecotour cruises from Savusavu to Koro, Taveuni, and Kioa islands. It carries mountain bikes, kayaks, and snorkeling gear for excursions.
In Savusavu, the Bula-Re Cafe serves reasonably good pastas, Indian, and Fijian fare as well as strong Fiji-bean coffee.
New among Taveuni's cottage rentals is Taveuni Palms, (tel. 877/828-72567; www.ovrentals.com/dpa1404.jsp) a luxurious house sitting beside its own private beach. At Qamea Resort and Spa, (tel. 679/888-0220; www.qamea.com) formerly known as Qamea Beach Club, new owners Ron Eckstrom and Bryce Earwaker have installed a spa and added air conditioning and outdoor showers to the already charming bungalows.
The food is simple local fare at the new Tramontu Bar & Grill, but the view from atop a cliff overlooking the Somosomo Strait is spectacular.
Samoa
Virtually atop Upolu Island, the new Lake Lanoto'o National Park (www.virgin-cove.ws/samoa.htm) protects Samoa's largest crater lake and several species of rare birds. The park is reached only by hiking at least an hour, an adventure best done on a guided bush walk.
The colonial-style Hotel Millenia on Beach Road (tel. 28-284; www.hotelmilleniasamoa.com) offers an inn-like ambience across the road from Apia Harbour. Some of its 19 units have kitchens, but the best are on the front with sea views. Although primarily populated by backpackers, the 1848 Princess Tui Inn (tel. 23-342; www.princesstui.ws) offers basic rooms as well as dorm beds in a charming colonial-era house on Vaiala Beach.
Paddles Cafe, on Beach Road opposite the main wharf (tel. 21-819), serves good regional fare from an upstairs terrace with a view of Apia Harbour.
American Samoa
American Samoa at last has some very good accommodation. In Ottoville west of the airport, the modern Quality Inn Tradewinds Hotel (www.samoa-hotels.com) appeals to business travelers with a variety of well-equipped rooms and suites plus a restaurant, bar, and outdoor pool. In the heart of Pago Pago, the comfortable Sadie Thompson Inn (www.ashpo.org/walktour/01_sadies.html) resides in the recently renovated historic building that provided the setting for W. Somerset Maugham's short story "Rain." Sadie's Restaurant is back in business downstairs.
The Kingdom of Tonga
The International Dateline Hotel has a new wing with 50 modern rooms and suites, and the public areas have been renovated. The rundown existing units, however, had not been spiffed up as we went to press and are best avoided. On Vuna Road, the new Waterfront Lodge (www.pacificnavigator.com) offers eight comfortable and well-equipped units, some with views across Nuku'alofa's new yacht harbor. The Waterfront Restaurant is now downstairs.
Restaurateur Gino Bacchi has brought marvelous Italian fare to Tonga at his new La Terrazza, on Vuna Road in Nuku'alofa (tel. 25-393).
Up in Vava'u, the modern and comfortable Puataukanave International Hotel (tel. 71-002; puashotel@tonfon.to) opened in 2003 beside Port of Refuge in Neiafu.
The Dancing Rooster, on the main street in Neiafu, serves international preparations of local seafood. The local version of Starbucks, Cafe Tropicana has become the local social center, with a great view of Port of Refuge to boot.