Much of what is so fascinating to travelers in Southeast Asia is the ephemeral: that friendly shopkeeper who invites you to sample something new, a hole-in-the-wall antiques store, a local specialty served at street side, seeming impromptu festivals, and the kindness of strangers. These serendipitous moments -- some call it "Trail Magic" -- are what make exploring this part of the world so memorable and yet so maddening for the publisher of a guidebook to chronicle. Those quaint little corners are as fickle as shooting stars and can often only be found by searching, and often disappear or change if sought after again. Our advice: Search away! Follow a passion -- an interest in local cuisine, history, or architecture -- and ask around. Go where the locals go. Accept invites where appropriate and take time -- things unfold slowly in this part of the world. Visitors come away with their own unique experiences and impressions in even the shortest visit to this diverse region.
Below we list a few of the major changes we've added to our latest edition. Travelers to Southeast Asia need to be hip to fluctuations in the international airline scene in today's cautious climate. While some Asian airlines have eliminated North American routes, many North American carriers have begun offering rock-bottom rates for premium flights, and there are even some new international connections. Check with ticket consolidators or carriers that sell regional multistop tickets: See Cathay Pacific (www.cathay.com), for example, or specials like the unique "Hip-Hop Pass" arranged by ASEAN (access the ASEAN website at www.asean-tourism.com).
Safety is on the mind of every traveler these days, and despite the public relations disaster of the SARS crisis, avian influenza, and some political hot spots in the region, the well-informed traveler in Southeast Asia can be sure of a trouble-free trip and manageable adventures.
The Tsunami of 2004
On December 26, 2004, an earthquake measuring 9 on the Richter scale, the largest in 40 years, struck Aceh near Indonesia; the resulting tsunami, a wall of water some 12m high (40 ft.) in some areas, pounded the coastal areas throughout the region, leaving an estimated death toll of over 250,000 people, mostly in the western part of Indonesia and Sri Lanka. Coastal areas throughout the region were devastated. International relief continues to pour in and the situation is rapidly improving. Loss of life in Thailand was estimated at over 5,000; the resort areas were hit hard. Khao Lak in the Pha Nga region and the island of Ko Phi Phi were nearly flattened. Damage to the large resort island of Phuket was considerable, but rebuilding and cleanup are under way, and most hotels were fully operational just days after the disaster. Parts of coastal Malaysia were also hit. A coalition of nations on the Indian Ocean are at work to implement an early warning system similar to those in countries on the Pacific in the hope that this tragedy will not be repeated. It is important to note that only the southwestern peninsula of Thailand and the west coast of Malaysia were affected. Vietnam, Cambodia, and Bali were untouched.
Thailand
One of the Asian "tiger economies," Thailand is growing exponentially. Thais are wealthier, and Thai infrastructure is expanding. Recent years have seen large public works projects; the building of dams, bridges, and highways; rural development; and growth in agricultural productivity. Bangkok's new international airport is nearly complete, and the Thai capital now boasts a subway line to augment the services of the elevated BTS Skytrain.
Politically, the country has seen a conservative shift with the ascendancy of Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is enacting aggressive fiscal and infrastructural reforms in an effort to make Thailand a leader in Asia. The PM's "War on Dark Influences" is more than your average PR campaign, but an across-the-board crackdown on corruption. Palm greasing and kickbacks are still the norm in local government and business, but laws once ignored are now being strictly enforced.
Recent news from Thailand focuses on the troubles in the far south along the Malay border. Sectarian tensions and small-scale terror attacks by isolated extremist groups since January 2004 have provoked a swift and deadly response from the Thai military. Thai police and military installations, schools, and Buddhist temples have been targeted by extremists, and retaliation from Thai troops has left hundreds dead; in fact, much of the international criticism cites excessive use of military force against young militants, particularly in the wake of a massacre at a temple in April 2004. The southern border area, near Pattani and Sungai Kolok, has been under periodic martial law, and travelers are discouraged from any unnecessary travel to the far south; few international tourists visit the area, however, and any violence so far has been directed at Thai establishments and places that cater to Malay tourists (mostly weekend revelers). The situation along the border is being watched closely, and things have been calm of late. Deferring travel to the south coast islands (which are far removed from the violence) would only mean a triumph for extremists.
The big news is that Bangkok's long-awaited subway is finally open! The subway connects Hualamphang Train Station with the northern Mo Chit bus terminal via an inverted C route through the city, with access to the existing skytrain at Silom and at the Asok stop on Sukhumvit Road. One ride will cost between 15B and 35B (¢40-¢90).
Bangkok is also awaiting the completion of a new airport. Suvanabhumi International Airport is slated for opening in the fall of 2005. The current airport, Don Muang International, will be transformed into the domestic terminal. In other airline news, there have been some exciting changes on the domestic air scene, with many new, smaller carriers vying for domestic routes. Nok Air (nok means bird) is a small, no-frills subsidiary of Thai Airways (www.thaiair.com); Air Asia (www.airasia.com), a budget Malay carrier, runs budget hops to all major tour destinations in the kingdom; and Valuejet is making connections from a number of international destinations.
Along with its fine resorts in Hua Hin, Bangkok, and the Golden Triangle, Anantara has just opened 108 rooms of the Anantara Resort and Spa Koh Samui (tel. 02477-0795; www.anantara.com) on a quiet stretch of beach on Bo Phut Bay.
On Koh Chang, a lush little hideaway just short of the Cambodian border on Thailand's eastern seaboard, the folks at the Amari hotel chain have just finished construction on the Amari Emerald Cove Resort (tel. 03955-2000; www.amari.com).
In Bangkok, the luxury Siam Intercontinental, once a top hotel in the heart of the city at Siam Square, has been torn down, and in it's place the Paragon, a massive five- star, is under construction. The Inter-Continental is now open in style in a building once housing Le Meridien. The Hilton Nai-Lert, a park-side five-star also near the city center, is rebranding and opening as a Raffles Hotel (tel. 02253-0123). Bangkok's latest luxury catwalk is the newly opened Metropolitan (tel. 02625-3333) on the site of the old YMCA.
Elsewhere, luxury properties are springing up like mushrooms on a wet log. On Phuket, the JW Marriott (tel. 07633-8000) is a secluded, luxury oasis on the northernmost tip of the busy tourist island. On Koh Samui, don't miss the newly opened Buriraya (tel. 07742-9300), a luxury resort overlooking Lamai Beach, an area once reserved for budget travelers. In Krabi, the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort (tel. 07562-8000) is a luxury find. These same resort areas still support a host of good midrange and budget accommodations with newer small resorts opening every day.
Islands like Ko Pha Ngan (near Koh Samui), Ko Lanta (near Krabi), and Ko Chang (east of Bangkok), once virtually untouched by mass tourism are, for good or for ill, sprouting high-end properties and luring the more well heeled. Amari Emerald Cove Resort (tel. 03955-2000) is a cozy new choice on Ko Chang. Panviman Resorts has fine properties on Ko Chang (tel. 03955-1290) and Ko Pha Ngan (tel. 07723-8543). Ko Lanta, south of Krabi, now hosts the Pimalai Resort and Spa (tel. 07560-7999), a luxurious hideaway on a backpacker's isle.
In Chiang Mai, Tamarind Village (tel. 05341-8896) is a unique semiluxe compound at the city center. In the far north, near Chiang Rai, don't miss the reopened Anantara Resort and Spa Golden Triangle (tel. 800/225-5843 or 05378-4084) overlooking the Golden Triangle and near the large Hall of Opium, a new interactive museum about the history and cultivation of the poppy.
Spa tourism has taken off in leaps and bounds in Thailand: from luxury properties offering extensive health and beauty packages and superluxe accommodations at prices comparable to Europe or the U.S., to smaller day spas and affordable destination spas with relaxing treatments and healthy living for all that ails you. Tops are places like the Banyan Tree in Phuket (tel. 07632-4374) or the Four Seasons Resort & Spa in Chiang Mai (tel. 05329-8181). For high-end health destinations, nothing compares with Chiva-Som in Hua Hin (tel. 03253-6536), a longtime leader in spa treatments with a very proactive, "peel the onion" approach.
Laos
French military men in the early 19th century bemoaned the posting of disciplined officers to Laos, telling of how the languid pace and earthly delights spoiled the man and made mush out of good soldiers. Things haven't change much; in fact, after a visit to Laos it's hard to get back into the rat race.
The Lao economy still lags, and any improvements in infrastructure come with the incursion of foreign investors and international aid: the Japanese building bridges in the south; China's efforts to pave the far north; and increased trade with both China and neighboring Thailand, has sparked some growth. But in general, the predominantly rural population of Laos eke out a basic living from the land, and a visit here is stepping into a bygone era.
Security for travelers is not an issue, but some reports over the last decade give pause; however the main north-south highway, Route 13, has been free of insurgent activity for some time now. The national carrier, once called Lao Aviation, has renamed itself Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com) and has acquired a number of new planes and flies new routes, offering better service and a stronger commitment to safety (though still has yet to pass international safety standards).
Rural roads are still reserved for the hardy. One good way to get around in style is to book with Luangsay Cruises (tel. 071/252-553; www.mekongcruises.com), either for its northern trip from the Thai border to Luang Prabang -- with an overnight at its luxurious eco-lodge -- or on the luxury Wat Phou flagship in the far south. Diethelm (tel. 021/213-833; www.diethelm-travel.com) is still the country's leader for deluxe classic tours.
Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage city of quaint French colonial buildings and stunning original temples along the Mekong, is the country's premiere attraction. The picturesque Villa Santi Hotel has long set the standard for downtown boutique luxury, but a number of unique new hotels are following suit. 3 Nagas (tel. 071/252-079; www.3nagas.com) is exemplary of the cool, new boutique renovations going on in town. Originally a royal building in the 19th century, later an ice-cream factory, rooms here are kingly and atmospheric. Sala Prabang is another stylish innovator; this a more budget choice -- a boutique guesthouse, really -- down by the riverside (tel. 071/252-460; www.salalao.com). The former L'hotel Souvannaphoum, a latter-day remodeling of what was once the home of a prince of the same name, is now under construction again, this time by a Singaporean firm, and is scheduled to reopen in 2005 in a new incarnation.
L'Elephant (tel. 071/252-482), an upscale French bistro in the heart of Luang Prabang, is still the town's top dog. Café Reginé (tel. 071/253-397), a small street-side restaurant in Luang Prabang, is new to this guide and serves some of the best pizza in the region and good French and Mediterranean from a little storefront. The Hive, just next door to L'étranger and run by the same folks, is the one and only nightspot in town. Drum-and-bass and hip-hop pump late into the evening and the dancing is fast and furious behind Phoussi hill until 12 or 1am.
Day trips from Luang Prabang to waterfalls and small villages are a hoot, but, sadly, you can no longer rent motorbikes in town, and must instead rely on local transport.
In the capital, Vientiane, a new riverside hotel, the behemoth Donchane Palace, is scheduled to open in 2005 and greet business conventions and international delegates. A unique new restaurant called Le Na Dao (tel. 020/550-484) sets a new standard in town for authentic French -- no fusion, no foolin' -- a real find.
Eco-tourism is still what brings so many off the track to rural Laos, and the folks at Wildside Eco Group (54 Setthathirat Rd., Vientiane; tel. 021/223-022; www.lao-wildside.com) lead adventurous trips out into the back of beyond, and now even further into the bush.
Vietnam
Vietnam is a trudging into the modern world with its head held high. Long a world leader in the export of rice, Vietnam now exports coffee, catfish, and shrimp on a level that has turned world markets upside down. Sloughing off years of isolation and recent economic collapse in the late 1990s, Vietnam is rushing pell-mell into the global economy, and international investments following bilateral trade agreements with Western countries has meant a GDP growth in 2002 to 2003 of 8%, second only to bubbling China. Vietnam is in the queue for membership in the World Trade Organization. Hosting the Southeast Asian (SEA) Games in 2003 was a great boost to Vietnam's status and relations in the region.
As recent as the fall of 2004, remains of American soldiers from the war era were unearthed and returned to the U.S., and the process of reconciliation between the two one-time enemies has been slow, marred by disagreements over missing American POWs, and Vietnam's continued aggression in the region and human rights violations at home. But trade and diplomatic ties have been redrawn, and cooperation is now the rule. An American naval ship, the USS Vandergrift, docked in Vung Tao in '04, the first since the war years, and the U.S. and Vietnam now even exchange military intelligence.
Further evidence of international cooperation, an extension of the doi moi beginning in the 1980s, is the comprehensive airline agreement between Vietnam and the U.S., which means that American carriers now fly directly to Vietnam from the U.S. West Coast. Loosening of restrictions on visas for people from neighboring nations -- South Korea and Japan -- is a good sign, and there are hints that visa-on-arrival will be available for Western visitors in coming years. Vietnam Airlines, the country's only domestic carrier, has purchased a fleet of new, safer planes and has expanded its schedule, both foreign and domestic. And the exponential growth in the number of ATMs in Vietnam means convenience for the international traveler.
Three-quarters of Vietnam's landmass is mountainous and covered by lush tropical forests, great for trekking and mountain biking. Wide rivers and beautiful coastline attracts paddlers worldwide, and the country's long stretch of beaches is great for watersports and relaxing. The major cities of Hanoi and Saigon are exciting and cosmopolitan, with countless cultural and historical attractions as well as accommodations from budget to ultradeluxe.
Despite development, busy Hanoi retains all of its charms: the chaos of the busy Old Quarter, tranquil Hoan Kiem at dawn, or a visit to the sites venerating Ho Chi Minh (even his actual body lying in state). Accommodations in the Vietnam capital are many. The Sheraton Hanoi Hotel (tel. 04/719-9000; www.sheraton.com) is finally up and running after a prolonged stall caused by economic collapse in the late 1990s. The Sheraton is a short ride from the town center and a good, comfortable choice, just one of many five-star hotels in town. On the budget end, Hong Ngoc Hotels (tel. 04/826-7566) are an ever-expanding local chain of tidy minihotels, all with good locations in the heart of the Old Quarter (now a total of four buildings).
A visit to Hanoi is not complete without visiting Cha Ca La Vong (tel. 04/825-3929), a unique local restaurant, and the likes of the Green Tangerine (tel. 04/825-1286), an upmarket French bistro set in a charming colonial, and Mediterraneo (tel. 04/826-6288), with good Italian fare.
Tours to picturesque Ha Long Bay, just 4 hours from Hanoi, are popular, and new luxury options abound. Buffalo Tours (www.buffalotours.com/jewel) runs overnight trips on its luxury The Jewel of the Bay (the best of many similar junkets), and the Emeraude (www.emeraude-cruises.com), a copy of an early-20th-century French steamer, trolls the bay in style.
The hotel scene in the colonial capital of Hue, once rather grim, gets a good goose from the new high-end rooms at the old Hotel Saigon Morin (tel. 054/823-526; www.morinhotel.com.vn), the only international standard in town.
The UNESCO World Heritage town of Hoi An has seen a rise in tourists and fine high-end hotels and resorts to accommodate. The Life Resort (tel. 510/914-555; www.life-resorts.com) has a unique semiluxe campus near the old town proper. Development on nearby Hoi An Island, within walking distance from town, starts with midrange Vinh Hung Resort (tel. 0510/910-577; www.vinhhunghotels.com), a trend likely to continue. Also new is the Hoi An Cargo Club and Patisserie tel. 0510/910-489; www.hoianhospitality.com), a high-end restaurant and bakery that offers cooking classes.
In coastal Nha Trang, Vietnam's Ocean City, the finest resort is still the Ana Mandara, but the same developers, Six Senses (www.sixsenses.com), have just finished Evason Hideaway Ana Mandara, a superluxe resort of pool villas reachable only by boat. New VinPearl Resort (tel. 058/598-188; www.vinpearlresort.com) is notable for its size (over 450 rooms) and unique location on an island just off shore (reached only by boat). In town, the new Sunrise Beach Resort Nha Trang tel. 058/920-999; www.sunrisenhatrang.com) brings high-end luxury to the main Nha Trang strip. New minihotels abound.
Phan Thiet, a beachside resort close to Ho Chi Minh, is crowded with good accommodations; add to this the Pandanus Beach Resort (tel. 062/849-849; www.pandanusresort.com) in a newly developed area near the Red Dunes (quite far from town), or the latest budget venture by Sinh Café (www.sinhcafevn.com), one of Vietnam's convenient budget travel agents.
In busy Ho Chi Minh, you can't miss the city's latest addition: the 23-floor Sheraton Saigon (tel. 08/827-2828; www.sheraton.com/saigon) is a top business standard, with close competition from longtime favorite the Caravelle and soon a Hyatt now under construction. On the budget end is the convenient Riverside Hotel (tel. 08/822-4038; www.riversidehotelsg.com) and, in the backpacker area, the Que Huong -- Liberty 3 (tel. 08/836-9522; www.libertyhotels.com.vn), both spartan but comfortable.
Dining choices are many in old Saigon, and new is luxury Port Orient at the Caravelle Hotel (tel. 08/823-4999), serving good fusion. Also try Skewers (tel. 08/829-2216), with fine Mediterranean and barbecue. The new Sheraton Hotel's Top of 23 is a cool new live music venue.
On the picturesque Mekong Delta, just south of Saigon, the Victoria Can Tho (tel. 071/810-111; www.victoriahotels-asia.com) is the luxury companion to nearby Victoria Chau Doc, both colonial-style hotels at river side.
Cambodia
Cambodia is receiving more and more Western visitors and greeting them in style. Cambodia's rough, rural roads are still best left to the adventurous, though, and it is important to stay abreast of the political situation, but travel to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap is now convenient and comfortable. New flights connect Cambodia's premier attraction, the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat, with nearby air hubs and accommodations in Siem Reap, the access town to the temples, which is rife with comfortable amenities.
Popular for its fine hotels in Vietnam, Victoria Hotels (www.victoriahotels-asia.com) introduces their latest -- and arguably best -- endeavor, the Victoria Angkor Hotel (tel. 063/760-428). The hotel dominates the central green just across from the classic Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor.
Angkor Village is still one of the most popular, atmospheric choices in Siem Reap, so much so that they've opened the Angkor Village Hotel (tel. 063/963-5613; www.angkorvillage.com), a larger version of the older favorite.
Aman Resorts (www.amanresorts.com), one of the most luxurious hoteliers in the region, now hosts the Amansara (tel. 063/760-333) just outside town, with private villas from $700 that rent to the rock stars and royalty.
Also new in Siem Reap are the following: Shinta Mani (tel. 063/761-998; www.sanctuaryresorts.com/shintamani), a small, boutique resort supported by its own hospitality institute; Bopha Angkor (tel. 063/964-928; www.bopha-angkor.com), a midrange Khmer-themed gem. For dining in Siem Reap, check out Khmer Kitchen Restaurant (tel. 012/763-468) or the Soup Dragon (tel. 063/964-933) -- both popular old standbys in Siem Reap that serve authentic local cuisine.
It is important to note that visitors to Angkor are now prohibited from riding rented motorbikes to the temple sites, but new motorbikes with small, shaded surreys on the back are a good, affordable option. Officials cite safety concerns, but it is likely more about creating jobs for local drivers. Makes sense, really.
For dining, check out Rendezvous Café (tel. 023/986-466), a cool new riverfront spot on the north end of Sisowath Quay. Also look into the cool, laid-back Comme á la Maison (tel. 023/360-801; www.commealamaison-delicatessen.com), a bakery and cafe south of town.
Air connections to and from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are frequent. Boats now connect Phnom Penh with Chau Doc on the border of Vietnam and convenient speedboats still ply the Tonle Sap between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Don't miss the new luxury services provided by Mekong Express (tel. 023/427-518; www.mekongexpresstourboat.com); $35 buys a ride from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap in style, and the company also runs comfortable air-conditioned buses. Rural travel is four-wheel-drive only, and in-country tour operators can arrange exciting tours.
Singapore
Singapore is booming with culture. In 2003, the Lion City opened the much-anticipated Asian Civilisations Museum, Empress Place (1 Empress Place; tel. 65/6332-7798), a stunning display of Asian history and heritage in a gorgeous colonial building at the mouth of the Singapore River. The building also hosts eateries and a fabulous museum gift shop. Check the website (www.nhb.gov.sg) before you come, to see if you can catch a free lecture. Book early, as they're very popular. Nearby, the charming Old Parliament House (1 Old Parliament Lane; tel. 65/6332-6900), perhaps the oldest building in Singapore, was recently restored and reopened to welcome arts exhibits, performances, and lectures.
The bad news is the Singapore History Museum (Riverside Point, 30 Merchant Rd., #03-09/17; tel. 65/6332-3659) is closed. The good news is, when it reopens in 2006 it will be twice the size and house completely new exhibits. In the meantime, they've set up a small display along the Singapore River documenting the history of river life.
Speaking of construction, if it looks like the Singapore Art Museum (Bras Basah Rd.; tel. 65/6332-3222; www.museum.org.sg) is closed, it's not. It's just unfortunately surrounded by barricades to protect people from wandering into neighboring construction of a new MRT station just beneath. In fact, Bras Basah Park, which sits between the history and art museums, will open soon as the new campus of the Singapore Management University, a move that might turn the downtown area into a college town in the next couple years. Until then, it is one enormous construction site and traffic jam.
Meanwhile, over in Kampong Glam, the Istana, the former palace of Singapore's ruling Sultan Hussein, got a complete facelift and now offers up the best glimpse into local Malay culture that Singapore has ever had. The new Malay Heritage Centre (85 Sultan's Gate; tel. 65/6391-0450), in addition to exhibits, also has demonstrations and tours.
Two exciting developments in Pasir Ris, in the northeast part of the island, are Escape Theme Park (Downtown East 1, Pasir Ris Close; tel. 65/6581-9112; www.escapethemepark.com.sg) and Wild Wild Wet (Downtown East 1, Pasir Ris Close; tel. 65/6581-9135; www.wildwildwet.com), great options for traveling families looking to stave off heat and boredom.
Malaysia
AirAsia (www.airasia.com)is exciting news for travelers to Malaysia. The budget, no-frills airline has survived its first 3 years with flying colors and offers some of the cheapest airfares around the country. What you save in airfare you can use to upgrade to a more deluxe resort. In similar news, Berjaya Air (tel. 603/7846-8228; www.berjaya-air.com). recently opened flights from Kuala Lumpur to Redang island off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia, making this fantastic dive resort very accessible.
Not so exciting, in recent years Malaysia has suffered a rise in purse snatching, what they call "snatch-thieving," which is an unfortunate mar on this otherwise safe country. Keep your bag close.
Kuala Lumpur
The Bird Park (Jalan Perdana, Lake Gardens; tel. 03/2273-5423) has reopened and it is really something -- the world's largest walk-in aviary is home to some 3,000 birds. They did a fantastic job. There's a new hot nightspot called Asian Heritage Row along Jalan Doraisamy with about a half dozen trendy restaurants and bars, and more to come.
My favorite new attraction in KL has to be the Berjaya Times Square shopping mall (1 Jalan Imbi; tel. 03/2117-3118), not for its 900 shops, food, and entertainment venues, but for the world's largest indoor rollercoaster. Even if you don't ride it, you'll feel a rush when it rumbles above your head at breakneck speeds. Very cool.
Malacca
This city has been busy restoring all of its museums (and there are quite a few). The newer exhibits are a welcome improvement and much recommended for those who find adventure in learning about history and heritage.
Penang
In my last visit to Penang I discovered that the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (13 Leith St.; tel. 04/262-0006; www.cheongfatttzemansion.com) opens its doors to overnight guests. This opulent Chinese baroque mansion, which belonged to one of Penang's richest fat cats, has renovated rooms with en suite bathrooms that carry over the eye-popping style of the rest of the mansion. If you choose not to stay, staff members still conduct daily tours to show off the unbelievable renovation job.
Terengganu
On the east coast, the state of Terengganu ushered in new political leadership that is committed to reversing the previous conservative government's antitourism policies. A new highway connecting the capital to Kuantan in the east coast is expected to extend to Terengganu by the end of 2005, opening up this fascinating state's rich heritage to visitors.
Sabah
Across the sea in Sabah, scuba divers headed for Sipadan, one of the top 10 dive sites in the world, should note that the Malaysian government is turning the island into a protected park. After December 2004, no dive operators will be allowed to run resorts on the island. Divers can still appreciate the site, however, but only via day trips.
Bali
In the aftermath of the huge drop in tourism following the Bali bombings in 2001, the island is getting back to full speed, but things aren't the same. The shakeup has changed the Balinese tourist market, and price ranges across the board have dropped. Some services have fallen away; there are no more high-speed ferry connections to Lombok, for example; but services that remain are tops, and great discounts are available across the board.
Aman Resorts (www.amanresorts.com) has ultraluxurious resorts in the major destinations in Bali: Ubud, Candi Dasa and Nusa Dua -- a great place to go rock star if you can afford it.
The Royal Seminyak (tel. 361/730730; www.royalseminyak.com) is a four-star property at beach side on the north end of Kuta. The hotel is at the end of Dhyana Pura Street, Kuta's newest and hippest area with some of Bali's finest fine dining and cool clubs that go all night. Check out The Yak, a free local glossy featuring the best of the best. Nearby Puri Cendana (tel. 361/730869; www.puricendana.com) is a great budget choice.
In Ubud, Bali's cultural locus at the island center, there are lots of good, high-end choices. Ubud's Amandari and Four Seasons are without rival, but Alila (tel. 361/975963; www.alilahotels.com) is a more affordable luxury hotel outside of town among lush rice terraces. Maya Ubud (tel. 361/977888; www.mayaubud.com) is a fine four-star on the city outskirts, cozy, stylish, and removed with great spa service overlooking a verdant river valley. Ubud Sari Health Resort (tel. 361/974393; www.ubudsari.com) is a great choice for spa service and bungalows, fine style, and service at budget prices.
Dining in Ubud gets a real shot of class and innovation with new Mozaic (tel. 361/975768; www.mozaic-bali.com), a refined, atmospheric restaurant serving good Balinese-influenced French cuisine -- nothing like it. Lamak (tel. 361/974663; www.lamakbali.com) is a newer, stylish bistro serving Western favorites from a chic two-tiered site in the center of Ubud.
Dining in the busy tourist center of Kuta is fast and furious. Ku De Ta (tel. 361/736969; www.kudeta.net), in Seminyak (the north end of Kuta), is arguably the best, but certainly typical of new fine dining options in the area. If you eat all of your meals in Bali at ritzy restaurants, you've missed out; don't miss the chance to eat suckling pig -- called babi guling -- or crispy duck and good local seafood and rice dishes at the island's many local restaurants, called warung.
Travelers to neighboring Lombok have slowed to a trickle, what with the suspension of ferry services and secular tensions in the region, but a visit to the Oberoi Lombok (tel. 370/638444; www.oberoihotels.com) is replete with kingly comforts -- there is also a luxurious property in Seminyak.
Bali Adventure Tours (tel. 361/721480; www.baliadventuretours.com) and Sobek (tel. 361/287059) still run great adventures around the island, and newcomer Matangi Tours (tel. 361/739820; www.traditionalbalitours.com) brings a whole new compliment of home stay and immersion programs to the table.
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