Bali
By Jen Lin-Liu
Despite the global recession, Bali continues to lure an increasing number of tourists; foreign tourists arrivals in April 2009 hit a record 179,879 according to the Bali Discovery, a tour company on the island. Bali tourism should receive an extra boost in the coming months from the much-anticipated filming of the movie adaptation of Elizabeth Gilbert's memoir Eat, Pray, Love (Penguin), which follows the writer on a world-wide quest for self-discovery, which ends in a little bungalow in Ubud.
Visitors to the island should beware of mixed drinks served at less-established bars -- 25 deaths were reported in early June from drinking methanol-laced rice wine, including the deaths of four foreigners. As a result, Bali authorities have conducted raids on the island's restaurants and bars in an effort to crack down on the problem. Stick to bottled drinks, like wine or beer, or drink at more established hotels and restaurants.
Luxury hotel development continues at a quick pace, with the debut of a number of new properties on the southern tip of the island near the Uluwatu Temple. The first to open is the Alila Uluwatu, part of a chain of Southeast Asian hotels which are known for a boutique feel at bargain prices. The villas bill themselves as an "eco-friendly resort" built with local wood, gray stone, and rattan. Each villa features a private pool and pavilion with gorgeous ocean views. Nearby, the Banyan Tree Ugusan is slated to open by the end of this year.
While it's not exactly new, the former Ritz-Carlton Jimbaran Bay has opened with new management as the Ayana Resort and Spa. The first of a number of multi-million dollar improvements is the new Rock Bar, opening July 15. Finally, not far from Uluwatu in the small fishing village of Tanjung Benoa, the Conrad hotel has opened a new Japanese restaurant called RIN that flies in fresh fish from Japan and features experimental dishes like foie-gras-infused steamed savory egg custard.
Accommodations
- The Alila Uluwatu, Jalan Belimbing Sari; Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu, Bali; (tel. 361/848-2166; www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu) near the popular cliffside temple of Uluwatu, opened in June.
- Look for the opening of the ultra-luxurious Banyan Tree Ugusan, 118C By Pass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran; (tel. 361/847 2044; www.ungasanbaliresort.com) by the end of this year.
Dining
- RIN, 168 Jalan Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, Bali; (tel. 36/177-8788; bali.conradmeetings.com) at the Conrad Hotel features the handiwork of Chef Richard Millar, who spent 18 months working in Japan and brews his dashi stock on a daily basis.
- The Rock Bar, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran, Bali; (tel. 36/170-2222 www.ayanaresort.com) is an open-air bar with uninterrupted, 360-degree views at the newly rebranded Ayana Resort and Spa.
Laos, Cambodia, & Vietnam
By Sherisse Pham
The peaceful country of Laos remains an idyllic getaway that attracts, for now, more backpackers than high-end travelers. That may soon change with the arrival of the Amantaka, the latest luxury resort from the Aman group.
In neighboring Vietnam, the economic squeeze is a good thing for tourists. Hotels are offering lower prices to lure in what few guests are trickling into the country. The capital's best new hotel is the Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi, which has emerged from a massive renovation chic, modern, and affordable.
The hottest table in town is currently La Badiane, a new restaurant from the popular former chef of The Green Tangerine, which, sadly, has suffered a noticeable decline in food quality since his departure. Central Vietnam's Hoi An, already a foodie's pleasure dome, has a new restaurant district north of the Thu Bon River. Mango Mango's groovy California-meets-Vietnamese river town style and fusion cuisine is my personal favorite, but the boys over at River Lounge also have a tasty contemporary Vietnamese menu and a stylish, white-washed space with overstuffed cushions.
Down in Ho Chi Minh City, cash in on the Caravelle Hotel's 50th anniversary special half-price rooms, available until the end of 2009. The Mövenpick Saigon Hotel's desperately-needed makeover was supposed to be finished by now, but a new tentative completion date has been set for mid-2010. Finally, for those tired of planes, trains and automobiles, I cannot recommend highly enough the wonderful folks at Vietnam Vespa Adventure. They offer city tours of Ho Chi Minh City or adventuresome multi-day trips to Mui Ne or Nha Trang on lovingly restored vintage Vespa scooters.
In Siem Reap, Cambodia, intensive restoration is in progress at Angkor Wat. Most of the big temples are being worked on, including Angkor Wat, The Bayon, and Ta Prohm. Expect to find scaffolding amongst the serene temples and carvings, as well as some closed areas. Sure, not being able to climb all the way to the third level of Angkor Wat to take in the amazing view is a tad disappointing, but the restoration work is not so intrusive as to warrant canceling your trip.
In Phnom Penh, the group who brought Cambodia's capital The Pavillion is offering yet another oasis-like boutique hotel. Blue Lime has a similar minimalist chic look, but friendlier staff and a larger outdoor pool than Pavillion. For upscale modernity and a primo location overlooking the river, book yourself at the brand new The Quay, a carbon neutral boutique hotel from the FCC Group. Quay's rooftop bar Chow has excellent riverside views and reasonably priced cocktails during happy hour (4-8pm).
Planning
Cambodia
You no longer need to have a passport photo when applying for a visa upon arrival -- officials will still process your application though you will be charged an (exorbitant!) extra $2 for a photocopy of your passport bio page.Accommodations
Laos
Amantaka, 55/3 Kingkitsarath Rd.; (tel. 071/860-333; www.amanresorts.com) officially opens July 1. Introductory rates start at $400 until September when it goes up to $600.Cambodia
Blue Lime, 42 Street 19Z, in the alley off Street 19; between 181Eo and 179B Street 19; (tel. 023/222-260; www.bluelime.asia) is a stylish new boutique hotel from the group behind the popular Pavillion hotel.The Quay, 277 Sisowath Quay; (tel. 023/224-894; www.thequayhotel.com) is the first "carbon-friendly" hotel (it buys credits to offset 100% of its carbon emissions) in Phnom Penh and has fine accommodations to boot.Vietnam
- Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi, 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St., Hanoi; (tel. 04/3822-2800; www.moevenpick-hotels.com) is finished renovations is open for business.
- Mövenpick Saigon Hotel's, 253 Nguyen Van Troi St., Phu Nhuan, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City; (tel. 08/3844-9222; www.moevenpick-hotels.com) room and hotel renovations are behind schedule, they are now set for completion by mid-2010.
- Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Sq., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City; (tel. 08/3823-4999; www.caravellehotel.com) is celebrating its 50th anniversary by offering 50% off rooms until the end of 2009.
Dining
Vietnam
- La Badiane, 10 Nam Ngu St., Hanoi; (tel. 04/3942-4509) is a new restaurant from the popular former chef of The Green Tangerine, which has unfortunately gone downhill in quality since his departure.
- Mango Mango, 45 Nguyen Phuc Chu, across the river from the Japanese Bridge, Hoi An; (tel. 0510/391-1863) is a new restaurant from the same chef as Mango Rooms.
- River Lounge, 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu, Hoi An; (tel. 0510/391-1700; www.lounge-collection.com) is another new restaurant in the up and coming area south of the river in Hoi An.
Activities & Attractions
Cambodia
- Angkor Wat's massive restoration should be complete by mid 2010; single-day passes now require mug shots, taken free of charge with a small webcam at the ticket booths
Vietnam
- Book Vietnam Vespa Adventure, a great new company offering tours in southern Vietnam abouard retro Vespa scooters, at Café Zoom, 169 De Tham St, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City; (tel. 08/3920-3897; www.vietnamvespaadventures.com).
Thailand
By Ron Emmons
Until recently, travelers to Thailand had no need to worry about the political situation in the country, but now potential visitors should consult the government travel advisory board (https://travel.state.gov/travel) before leaving. After the September 2006 coup which ousted Thaksin Shinawatra, leader of the Thai Rak Thai (TRT) Party, his supporters founded the People's Power Party (PPP), which has now morphed into the United Front for Democracy against Dictatorship (UDD), whose deadly enemy is the similar-sounding People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD).
The aggressive activities of these two groups has led to a sharp decline in tourist arrivals in Thailand, particularly incidents such as the closure of Suvarnabhumi Airport in November 2008 by the PAD and running street battles initiated by the UDD in Bangkok during the April 2009 Songkran (traditional New Year) celebrations. Since December 2008, the country has been led by Abhisit Vejjajiva of the Democrat Party, which forms part of the PAD.
Conflicts between the armed forces and insurgents in the south of the country continue to make this region dangerous for tourists. Combined with political instability, the global economic downturn has dampened much of the enthusiasm of the past decade in which Thailand became the most popular destination in Southeast Asia.
Despite this, transport options continue to grow, with the opening of the high-speed rail link between Suvarnabhumi Airport and downtown Bangkok eagerly anticipated in August 2009, which should cut traveling time into town down to around 15-20 minutes.
Accomodations
A sleek, new, centrally-located hotel in the Bangkok, the ibis Sathorn (tel. 02/659-2888; www.ibishotels.com) offers comfort and convenience in a thoroughly modern setting. Moving in among the many luxurious resorts and spas on Samui, Nikki Beach (tel. 077/914-500; www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui) on Lipa Noi Beach aims to attract global jet-setters with its sophisticated ambiance and haute cuisine. Built at the site of the worst devastation from the 2004 tsunami, Le Meridien Beach & Spa Resort (tel. 076/427-500; www.starwoodhotels.com) now provides a luxurious spot from which to gaze out across the Andaman Sea. Combining the natural feel of a farmhouse with the comfort of a luxury retreat, the Granary Resort (tel. 053/110-509; www.granaryresort.com) is a great place to sit back and watch the waters of the River Ping go rolling by.Dining
- For delicious finger-food with a sophisticated twist, check out Phuket's DeDos Restaurant (tel. 076/325-182; www.dedos-restaurant.com) at 8 Lagoon Road, where the chefs capture the best of Thai, Japanese and Mediterranean cuisine.