As Spain moves into the forefront of world tourism, here is a roundup of some late-breaking developments.
If prospective visitors to Spain fear transportation tie-ups in Madrid, following massive explosions that left 190 people dead and some 1,400 passengers injured in rail stations attack, think again. Even the day following the attacks, rail service operated at 80% capacity. The attacks were on March 11, 2004. By March 20, all rail lines had been restored to their regular schedules. Initially, however, ridership was down because of fears in the wake of the attacks. Atocha Station -- the destination of all of the trains attacked -- is the city's major rail hub. The station itself was undamaged. Security has been heightened at all major train and bus terminals throughout Spain.
Madrid
A new Madrid Card (www.madridcard.com) opens doors to dozens of the city's museums, offers discounts at many restaurants, and grants rides on public transport, plus other privileges. A 1-day card cost 28€ ($32) and is a sound investment.
In accommodations, Villa de la Reina, Gran Vía 222 (tel. 91-523-91-01; www.hotelvilladelareina.com), is a hot new address, a restored early-20th-century neoclassical building in the exact heart of Madrid. In spite of its classical interiors, it is completely up-to-date with all the modern amenities. In another hotel development, entrepreneurs have turned the former American Embassy into Intur Palacio San Martín, Plaza San Martín 5 (tel. 91-701-5000; www.intur.com). In the vicinity of Puerta del Sol, it too lies in the center of Madrid. This landmark 1883 building has preserved the elegance of the past but completely updated the plumbing and the technical gadgets.
Europa, in the regal Hotel Villa Real, Plaza de las Cortés 10 (tel. 91-420-3767), has become one of the finest hotel dining rooms in Madrid. It's an elegant citadel with a refined Mediterranean cuisine. You can enjoy Andy Warhols on the walls and the best "fish rice" in the city.
The Renaissance of the hotel dining room has come back into fashion, and Goizeko Wellington, in the Hotel Wellington, Calle Villanueva 34 (tel. 91-577-0138), is even better than Europa, with its inspired combination of Basque and Mediterranean cuisine. Stylish and innovative, it enjoys wide critical acclaim for its market-fresh specialties, especially its tempting platters of seafood.
Toledo
The first truly deluxe hotel ever constructed in the ancient city of Toledo, Hotel Beatriz, Carretera de Avila (tel. 92-526-91-00; www.hotelbeatriztoledo.com), is the only hostelry that rivals the government-owned parador. Although launched in the ?90s, the hotel has undergone a major renovation and faced 2004 better than ever.
In dining, the most eagerly sought table reservation is at El Bohío, av. Castilla-La Mancha 81 (tel. 92551-11-26), in the town of Illescas, 37km (22 miles) south of Madrid on the route to Toledo. It offers a grander cuisine than any found in Toledo itself and makes an idyllic luncheon stopover. Ever had paprika ice cream?
Andalusia
Many visitors to Seville are making the 75km (46-mile) drive north to the little Moorish town of Cazalla de la Sierra just to stay at Palacio de San Benito, Cazalla de la Sierra (tel. 95-488-33-36; www.palaciodesanbenito.com), one of the grandest addresses in Andalusia. A former palace inhabited by Spanish dons in the 14th and 15th centuries has been gloriously restored and furnished with antiques, including pieces from the Baroque period.
High in the mountains, in the old Moorish town of Ronda, check into El Juncal, Carretera El Borgo Km 1 (tel. 95-216-11-70; www.eljuncal.com), which is creating local excitement. With a beautiful swimming pool in its landscaped gardens, the hotel is a converted antique Spanish finca (a kind of farmhouse). It's been beautifully furnished and elegantly restored, often with pieces from the famed designer, Philippe Starck.
In Seville's rival city for the tourist euro, Granada, Casa de Los Migueletes, Calle Benelua 11 (tel. 95-821-0700; www.srs-worldhotels.com/spain/granada/hotel_grxcas.html), lures discerning visitors to the old Moorish quarter of the Alabaicín, where a 17th-century mansion, complete with patios and galleries, has been beautifully restored. Once in ruins, the mansion has been dramatically brought back to life and is crowned by a special tower room.
Costa Del Sol
Fuengirola
The most culinary acclaim along with resort-studded coast in 2004 focused on Patrick Bousier, Rotondade la Luna 1, Pueblo López in Fuengirola (tel. 95-258-120). This former chef who trained with Paul Bocuse, arguably the greatest chef in France, has opened up his own French bistro here. Instead of just copying Bocuse, he makes his own creative statement with an imaginative cuisine. Every dish from grilled sea bass to his plate of wild mushrooms bears the chef's original stamp.
Valencia
Just a 4-minute walk from the train station, the hotel, Vincci Lys, Martínez Cubells 5 (tel. 96-350-95-50; www.vinccihoteles.com), is becoming the place to stay in this eastern port city. On a pedestrian street, it is one of the city's more affordable choices, with light, airy, and spacious bedrooms, each comfortably furnished and well-maintained. Some bedrooms are designed especially for women travelers.
For frugal travelers, another excellent discovery is the little government-rated two-star Hotel Venecia, En Lop 5 (tel. 96-352-42-67; www.hotelvenecia.com), in the city center. Short on frills, it nonetheless offers comfortable and well-maintained bedrooms and has won several awards from Spanish hotel guides. Its most attractive feature? Its affordable prices.
Barcelona
A new high-speed train has shaved off the commuting time from Madrid by 2 hours, making the distance now only 5 hours. Six of these Alcaria trains make the run throughout the day, linking Madrid's Atocha station with Barcelona's Sants Station.
In the fashionable Passeig de Gràcia district, Hotel Omm, Rosello 265 (tel. 93-445-40-00; www.hotelomm.es), has opened. Boasting one of Barcelona's most modern designs, the Omn is the creation of some of the country's best-known architects and interior designers. Its rooftop pool is a magnet in summer, and its restaurant, Moo, is one of the city's best hotel dining rooms.
The most spectacular hotel opening in Barcelona is Grand Marina Hotel, Moll de Barcelona (tel. 93-603-90-00; www.grandmarinahotel.com), whose interior architecture evokes the iconic Guggenheim Museum in New York. Next to Barcelona's World Trade Center, it offers spacious, well-furnished bedrooms with private terraces and luxurious touches.
Even bigger hotel news was generated in 2004 by the reopening of the long dormant Gran Hotel La Florida, Carretera del Tibidabo (tel. 800/359-4827 or 93-259-30-00; www.hotellaflorida.com), which lies up the mountain from Tibidabo. Originally opened in 1925, the luxury hotel has been restored in all its splendor, but with the addition of such modern conveniences as a swimming pool, spa, and beauty center.
Among restaurants, Colibrí, Rieva Alta 33 (tel. 93-443-23-06), is known for serving what's the freshest at the market on any given day. Chef Cesar Pastor is so dedicated to freshness that he makes the daily pilgrimage to the marketplace himself. His recently discovered bistro is known for its Catalan cuisine with affordable prices.
One of the best -- but also most controversial chefs of Barcelona -- is Jordi Vilà, who has opened Alkimia, Calle Industria 9 (tel. 93-207-61-15). Waking up local tastebuds, he calls his new cuisine "deconstructivism," meaning he breaks down a traditional recipe into various components before reinterpreting it in an original way.
Another dining sensation is created by young chefs, Oriol Ivern and Guillem Pla, at their Hisop, Pasaje Marimon (tel. 93-241-32-33) on the northern tier of the Eixample sector. The decor is hip and stylish and the food is sublime.
Bilbao
In the wake of the debut of the Guggenheim Museum, world-class hotels are opening to accommodate the flow of art lovers. Among the latest choices is the whimsically designed Gran Hotel Domine, Alameda de Mazarredo 61 (tel. 94-425-33-00; www.granhoteldominebilbao.com), which faces the museum. A government-rated, five-star establishment, this mansion was the creation of famous architects and designers who imbued it with charm, comfort, and delightful architectural surprises.
Not as dramatic as Domine, but a winning choice nonetheless, Miróhotel, Alameda Mazarredo 74 (tel. 94-661-18-80; www.mirohotelbilbao.com