The big news for visitors? The government has ordered all bars, restaurants, and nightclubs to create sealed off-smoking areas or else to ban the butt altogether. A law went into effect making it illegal to smoke in office buildings, shopping malls, cultural centers, and on public transportation. The Spanish government says about 30 percent of its citizens smoke, and the habit is the biggest cause of death in the country, many residents affected by secondhand smoke. Restaurants and bars, long a bastion for the smoker, are worried about the effect the ban will have on business.
Madrid
Where to Stay
A chain of hotels called Room Mate (www.room-matehotels.com) is moving into Madrid at an aggressive pace. These hotels include Mario, Calle Campomanes 4 (tel. 91-5488548), lying only 50 meters from the Opera, the Royal Palace, and the main drag Gran Vía. White and black corridors led to avant-garde and daringly contemporary bedrooms with inventive headposts.
Another member of the chain is Oscar, Plaza Vázquex de Mella 12 (tel. 91-5488548), the creation of the fashionable interior designer Tomás Alía. The hotel is in a building with a geometric design that evokes Bauhaus. The hotel decorates some of its rooms with erotic wallpaper or else some very futuristic decors resembling the inside of a lava lamp.
Yet another Room Mate hotel, Alicia, Calle del Prado 2 (tel. 91-3896095), consists of only 34 rooms, but it was designed by one of Spain's top decorators, Pascua Ortega, at the corner of the bustling Plaza de Santa Ana, close to the Prado. Rooms have a loft aesthetic of open, flexible spaces, and many units have floor-to-ceiling windows. The minimalist décor and the lack of a lot of regular hotel services may be a drawback for some, but with doubles renting for $115 a night in pricey Madrid, this hotel definitely has its devotees.
A final Room Mate choice, Laura, Travesía de Trujillos 3 (tel. 91-7011670), is a building of recent construction though it follows the pure style of the 1800s. The interior designer was by Tomás Alía who created a spacious lobby and avant-garde decoration. Some guests have likened it to a modern hotel in New York. There's a mini-kitchen in every apartment. The location is in the center of old Madrid, only a 2-minute walk to the Plaza Mayor or a 4-minute walk to Puerta del Sol.
The old Reina Victoria, former abode of matadors, has become the new Madrid Reina Victoria, Plaza de Santa Ana (tel. 91-7016000). The fin-de-siècle façade is still the same, but inside the once-rickety old building has been completely modernized with lots of gadgetry in the rooms including a bar, an iPod connection, free Wi-Fi, a 32-inch plasma screen TV, a laptop, safe, and a CD/DVD player. The lobby is almost taken over by Midnight Rose, which serves imaginative tapas and tasty meals. A gym is open 24 hours, and there is also a spectacular rooftop bar and terrace, the Penthouse, evoking something you'd expect to find on South Beach.
Where to Dine
The acclaimed chef, Alberto Chicote, has opened Pan de Lujo, a luxury restaurant at Calle Jorge Juan 20 (tel. 91-4361100). The bold design looks straight out of Elle Décor. The chef shows off his skill by presenting extraordinary versions of the finest of Spain's regional produce. Sample dishes include an appetizer of paper-thin eggplant in delicate olive oil resting on hummus, followed by poached snapper with crisp baby vegetables.
Another chic restaurant that has opened is Loft 39, 39 Velázquez (tel. 91-4324386; www.restauranteloft39.com), with a beautiful, modern interior designed by Pascua Ortega. The seductive repertoire of dishes accentuates the intrinsic flavor in ingredients, as evoked by Iberian ham from acorn-fed pigs, natural oysters, tuna tartare with guacamole, or crab in tempura with a sea urchin sauce.
What to See & Do
The big news is coming from the Prado, Paseo del Prado (tel. 91-3302800; www.museodelprado.es), which has grown by 50 percent with its newly opened extension. This is the largest single growth in the two-century history of the museum. The massive extension includes several galleries, a restaurant, a lecture hall, and a gift shop. Designed by Rafael Moneo, the new space blends in discreetly with the original 19th-century gallery. The extension, among other exhibits, allows the Prado to display 1,000 Goya prints that had been in storage.
Shopping
A showcase for young Spanish designers has opened at Biscuit, Calle Divino Pastor 15 (tel. 91-5916275; www.biscuitstore.com). With its emphasis on designer T-shirts, the look is definitely for the young. Brands include Muka, known for its silk-crepe wrap dresses. For a French fashion fix, the trendy set of Madrid is flocking to H.A.N.D.-Have A Nice Day, Hortaleza 26 (tel. 91-5215152; www.hand-haveaniceday.com). Leading Parisian designers, including Stella Forest, are showcased here. The owners travel to Paris every three weeks to stock up.
Andalusia
In Seville, the capital of Andalusia, Casa Sacristia Santa Ana Hotel, Alameda de Hércules 22 (tel. 95-4915722), has been installed in a former 18th-century sacristy that has been converted into a government-designated three-star hotel. This hotel in the historic center of Seville, near La Plaza de La Alameda, is a 25-room country-chic modern establishment that has all the modern gadgetry and plumbing, but maintains a certain Andalusian architectural purity. All the rooms are in a romantic style with everything from Wi-Fi to fluffy pillows and an electronic safe.
The Costa del Sol
In Mijas, Radisson SAS El Marques Resort Spa, Avenida de Gran Bretana, Mijas Golf (tel. 93-5520191; www.radissonsas.com), is Valhalla for golfers. The modern resort hotel lies in the so-called "Valley of Golf," near 5 of the best golf courses in Spain, some of which were designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. In fact, more than 40 golf courses lie a short distance from this sprawling deluxe hotel. All the spacious bedrooms are suites and are furnished stylishly and comfortably, each with a large terrace. The health club on site is the best in the area.
Valencia
The historic turn-of-the-20th century Mercado de Colon is being restored. The market hall dates back to 1916 when it opened in the center of Eixample, the city's most exclusive and residential area. Influenced by the celebrated architect Gaudí, the market was called "an epiphany of Modernista architecture and a fusion of historicism and modernism." The present building is not only being restored but the surrounding area is being landscaped to create a new civic plaza with café terraces, retail pavilions, and restaurants as well as continuing its original use as a food-and-flower market.
Barcelona
Where to Stay in Barcelona
The famous British architect, Richard Rogers, who won the Pritzker Prize, has created Hesperia Tower, Gran Vía 144, L'Hospitalet de Llobregat (tel. 93-4135000; www.hesperia-tower.com), a 280-room, high-tech modernist hotel with the architect's trademark exo-skeletal design. On top it looks like a spaceship has landed but it's actually the 55-seat Evo Restaurant, presided over by Santi Santamaría, who has previously enjoyed Michelin stars for his cuisine. At 350 feet high, the hotel is one of the tallest buildings in Catalonia, lying closer to the airport than the city center. The bedrooms have the feeling of a luxurious ocean liner sailing the high seas.
Hotel 1898, La Rambla 109 (tel. 93-5529552), recreates the opulence of Spain in the 1800s but with all the 21st-century conveniences. It takes its name from the year Spain lost the Philippines to the United States. The building was converted from the former headquarters of the Philippines Tobacco Company. The hotel stands in the very heart of Barcelona near the Plaça de Catalunya. The rooftop terrace and lap pool have been called the most decadent spot in the city. From an on-site spa to soundproof rooms, the hotel has five levels of accommodations, ranging from "classic" to the most spacious "privilege."
In the increasingly fashionable fishing quarter, Barcelona's latest boutique hotel, 54 Barceloneta, Passeig Joan de Borbo 54 (tel. 93-2250054; www.hotel54barceloneta.com), has opened. The hotel was installed in an old building of the Association of Fishermen, offering panoramic views of the harbor and skyline. The antique structure has been given a modern, elegant design inside, and there are such trendy decorative touches as neon mood lighting and green-glass sinks in the bathrooms. The hotel is not for the early-to-bed crowd, and there is a hip nightclub in the cellar.
Where to Dine
Among the city's top chef-driven bistros to open, Tapaç 24, 269 Carr. Diputacío (tel. 93-4880977), surfaces near the top. It was created by Carles Abellan, who worked at El Bulli, one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Spain. Try the cod omelet with beans and pardon peppers, the truffled grilled cheese sandwich of mozzarella and Iberian ham, or the silken anchovies spread on a slice of Requeson cheese. Ever had cooked duck eggs broken up over fresh French fries for lunch?
Barcelona has long suffered from a shortage of first-class waterfront restaurants with panoramic views of the Mediterranean coastline. That changed with the opening of Mondo, Imax Building, Moll d'Espanya, Maremagnum (tel. 93-2213911), already acclaimed for having the best seafood in Barcelona. A terrace overlooks the harbor, and some of the most delicate dishes from the sea are served, everything from seared sea cucumbers to delicate raw Carril clams.
Girona
At long last this famous old city of Catalonia is waking up with modern hotels and stunning first-class restaurants. Steps from the historic quarter is the contemporary Ciutat de Girona, Nord 2 (tel. 972-483038; www.hotel-ciutatdegirona.com), bedecked in marble. It beautifully blends in with the city's traditional Catalan architecture. The 44 bedrooms are the most modern in town, equipped with the latest technology, ranging from Wi-Fi to satellite TV. One of the town's best restaurants, Blanc, is on site, decorated with hundreds of multi-colored glass bottles.
For other dining, Draps Petit Restaurant, 2 Cort Reial (tel. 872-080430; www.restaurantdrapsgirona.com), has opened in a former library constructed in 1868. The lively, seductive cuisine on an ever-changing menu features delectable Catalan dishes, including the best lobster cannelloni along Costa Brava.
Restaurant Albereda, Albereda 7 (tel. 972-226002; www.restaurantalbereda.com), is the most elegant, most expensive, and best restaurant within the city center. Forgotten herbs, surprising tastes, and colorful vegetables are just part of the vibrant cookery. The menu is adjusted to the season, and all the dishes, including starters, main courses, and desserts are carefully crafted, often appearing as "works of art" on your plate. The chef shops fresh every day at the market for the best of local produce.
The Balearic Islands
Majorca
Tucked away behind Palma's sprawling cathedral, Palácio Ca Sa Galesa, 8 Carr. De Miramar (tel. 97-1715400; www.palaciocasagalesa.com), is a beautifully restored old manor house, granted 5 stars by the government. It has only a dozen rooms, so reserve well in advance. The building itself is from 1576 but it has been completely brought up to date with modern plumbing and gadgetry. Much of the old architectural features were retained, including a beautiful patio fountain.
Es Baluard, 10 Plaza Puerta de Santa Cataline (tel. 97-1908199; www.esbaluard.org), is a glass box attached to a modern art museum. Chef Joan Torrens is the chief pioneer in Palma of what is known as the new Majorcan cuisine. He takes traditional recipes and "modernizes" them, based on seasonal produce. For a starter, how often do you see sticky rice with rabbit, mushrooms, and snails on the menu? Mains include everything from a crystallized suckling pig to a loin of lamb stuffed with eggplant.
Ibiza
This island in the Balearics continues to develop new hotels, including El Pacha, Paseo Marítimo (tel. 97-1315963), across the street from the famous Pacha nightclub. The boutique hotel, rated 4 stars by the government, is modern and glitzy, evoking the designs of Philippe Starck.
In another development, Cas Gasti, Camino Viejo de Sant Mateu (tel. 97-1197700), is a large farmhouse that has been turned into an agritourism inn with 10 modestly but comfortably furnished bedrooms, plus two suites and a restaurant featuring an organic menu. You can sit outdoors enjoying a drink around the pool surrounded by jasmine and orange blossoms. All the individual bedrooms have been uniquely decorated, with mosquito netting covering all the beds which have slept everybody from Kate Moss to Robert De Niro.
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