Planning Your Trip
French Polynesia is not quite as expensive now that the exchange rate for the American dollar has rebounded from a low of 77 French Pacific francs (CFP) in 2007 to about 89 CFP at this writing. That is, US$1 = 89 CFP. We used a rate of US$1 = 80 CFP in the second edition of Frommer's Tahiti & French Polynesia, so subtract about 10% from the US dollar conversion prices in that book. Better yet, look up today's exchange rate on a currency exchange site such as www.xe.com.
Air Tahiti Nui (www.airtahitinui.com) has suspended its flights between New York and Papeete, though they are expected to resume in June 2009 in time for the northern hemisphere's honeymoon season. The New York-Papeete flights now stop in Los Angeles each way. Air Tahiti Nui still flies between Papeete and Tokyo, but has discontinued its service to Osaka in Japan.
Speaking of honeymoons, the local government has asked France to make it easier for visitors to get married in French Polynesia. It's impractical for visitors to get legally hitched in the islands at present, since a 30-day residency is required before you can get a license.
You can see what French Polynesia looks like on numerous videos shot in the islands and posted on Tahiti Toursime's new "Web TV" site at www.tahiti.tv. The site is in French, not English.
A disabled reader who visited French Polynesia notes that a majority of local hotels consist of bungalows separated from the restaurant, bar, and other facilities, sometimes by long distances. A few upper-end resorts have golf carts or other means of transporting their guests around their properties, but most hotels do not. Anyone who has trouble walking should request accommodation near the central facilities. Make this absolutely clear when you or your travel agent makes your reservations, preferably in writing. Not all hotels remember to honor such requests, so take copies of your request with you, and reiterate it when checking in.
Air Tahiti and Air Moorea, the domestic carriers, use small planes that are not equipped for disabled passengers, though their staff members go out of their way to help everyone get in and out of the craft.
Silversea Cruises (tel. 800/722-9955; www.silversea.com) will send its luxurious, 60-passenger Prince Albert II to French Polynesia for six months beginning in March 2009. The difficult-to-reach Marquesas and seldom-visited Austral islands will be ports of call. Naturalists, ornithologists and other experts will be on each voyage. Named the World Discoverer before Silversea Cruises upgraded it, the Prince Albert now has such luxuries as a Wine Restaurant by Relais & Château. One stop it is expected to make is at Le Tahaa Private Island and Spa, a Relais & Château-affiliated resort. Fares are expected to range from US$3,597 to US$17,766 double occupancy all-inclusive.
Bora Bora Cruises is now known as Nomade Yachting Bora Bora. Nothing else has changed, including its web address (www.boraboracruises.com).
The luxurious Paul Gauguin will cease being a Regent Seven Seas ship after 2009, but it will remain in French Polynesia. It will be in Australia for a US$6 million renovation from January 25 to February 5, 2009, including the addition of private balconies on 26 of its cabins. The repositioning cruises are sold out.
Tahiti
A US$3 million renovation to Musée Gauguin (Gauguin Museum) is scheduled to be completed in 2009. Bing Hall, where Gauguin's original works are displayed, will be upgraded, as will the "museography" recounting his life on Tahiti and on Hiva Oa in the Marquesas, where he is buried. The museum will remain open during the work.
Tahiti has a new annual event, the month-long International Arts and Popular Traditions Festival, at the Papeete Town Hall during October and November. Groups attended this year from as far away as remote Pitcairn Island, home of the H.M.S. Bounty mutineers' descendants.
Preliminary work has begun on a luxurious but environmentally-friendly resort on Tetiaroa, the atoll 30 miles north of Tahiti which was owned by the late Marlon Brando. Plans call for the resort to open in 2010.
Moorea
On Moorea, the already moderately-priced Club Bali Hai (www.clubbalihai.com) countered the sinking U.S. dollar with a "Bargain Hunter's Special," which included breakfast daily, a snorkeling trip, a rental car for two days, vouchers at local restaurants, and a ticket to the hotel's excellent Wednesday night barbeque and Tahitian dance show.
Bora Bora
The super-luxe Four Seasons Bora Bora (www.fourseasons.com/borabora) has opened on Motu Tehotu, a flat island on the eastern side of Bora Bora's spectacular lagoon. Its 121 units include 100 suite-sized, over-water bungalows and seven beachside villas. Four gourmet lagoon-view restaurants and a full-service spa are also on hand. Well-heeled youngsters should enjoy a separate islet for teens and a kid's club with its own pool. Rates start at 86,500 CFP (US$1,012) double occupancy.
Vince Vaughn, Jon Favreau, Jason Bateman, and Faizon Love are starring in Couples Retreat, a Universal Studios comedy filmed at the St. Regis Resort Bora Bora during October and November 2008. The movie will be released in 2009.
