After major developments in the resorts of Cable Beach and Paradise Island (part of New Providence, real estate also shared with Nassau), the resorts and dining options are better than ever. Even sleepy Grand Bahama Island (Freeport/Lucaya) is coming out of its doldrums and reconstructing and renovating resorts at record levels. The Out Islands remain relatively quiet, with one exception. The recently opened Four Seasons has a spectacular new, government-rated, five-star property in the Exumas.
Nassau
The government of The Bahamas is attempting to become more user-friendly, with the establishment of Festival Place (tel. 242/322-7680) at the Prince George dock where cruise ships pull in. This facility provides tourist information, helping those on short visits to the island who want to get the most out of a quick trip. There's even a lounge where you can enjoy a daiquiri while listening to calypso Bahamian style. The Ministry of Tourism has even set up a Complaint Unit (tel. 242/356-0435) to listen to the grievances of visitors. In addition a hotline has been installed for those in dire need of assistance (tel. 242/326-HELP).
Golf
The Radisson Cable Beach Golf Course (tel. 242/327-6000; www.radisson-cablebeach.com)is better than ever, having undergone a complete redesign, with a reshaping of its fairways and a repositioning of its greens. New "hazards" and water-lined holes have been created throughout two-thirds of the course.
Attractions
One of the biggest attractions in many a year has opened in Nassau. At last the island nation has a national showcase to display the work of its talented artists: The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas (tel. 242/328-5800; www.nagb.org.bs/contact.lasso). In a restored building in the heart of Nassau, the gallery showcases Bahamian art, much of it over a 50-year period, virtually the time frame that Bahamian art came to be.
Paradise Island
Many visitors no longer have to fly into the Nassau airport to reach Paradise Island. Chalks Ocean Airways (tel. 800/424-2557 or 242/363-1687; www.chalksoceanairways.com), has inaugurated daily flights to the island from the Fort Lauderdale International Airport.
In the biggest hotel expansion in the history of the Bahamas, Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino (tel. 242/363-3000; www.atlantis.com) has announced a $600 million expansion to be completed by the winter of 2006. This will add 1,200 new rooms to this already mammoth complex. Also within the resort complex is the new Mandera Spa at Atlantis, one of the grandest spas in either The Bahamas or the Caribbean, with an open-air natural seawater pool and treatments designed -- in their words -- "to make gods and goddesses" out of clients.
Grand Bahama Island (Freeport/Lucaya)
Getting There
Of all the islands in The Bahamas, Grand Bahama has experienced the most change. It's even easier to reach it, with the launching of the modern ferryboat, Cloud X, sailing here in 3 hours from Palm Beach, Florida. Another transportation breakthrough is the launch of The Cat, another ferryboat with daily connections from Port Everglades near Fort Lauderdale.
Accommodations
After having gone through many upheavals and reincarnations, Freeport's sprawling resort has surfaced once again as the Crowne Plaza Golf Resort & Casino at the Royal Oasis (tel. 242/350-7000; www.theroyaloasis.com). It's actually two resorts in one, and the mammoth complex has spent some $42 million on a complete upgrade.
Taino Beach has seen more hotel openings than any other place in The Bahamas. Spearheading the development is the new Ritz Beach Hotel (tel. 242/373-9354; www.ritzbeach.com), rated five stars by the government. Enveloped by semi-tropical gardens, it lies adjacent to a water world park and a theme park -- ideal for families with kids. Nearby another fun resort, Taino Beach Vacation Club (tel. 242/373-4682; www.tainobeach.com) offers bright, breezy 1, 2-, and 3-bedroom condos opening onto a beach club with a 1,500 foot (457m) strip of white sands. Set back from the beach is the Taino Beach Vacation Club (tel. 242/373-4682), a three-story concrete building that put on its new face following a massive renovation in 2003.
Bimini, Berry Islands & Andros
In Bimini, former fishing ground of Hemingway, an evocatively named restaurant, The Tackle Box (tel. 242/347-3391), has opened at the Bimini Big Game Resort & Marina. Adjacent to the marina, it is patronized by world-class fishermen and their parties who come here to feast on international and Bahamian cuisine. Dishes featuring fresh fish like wahoo and mahi-mahi are a big hit.
The remote archipelago of Andros just came a little closer to the world with the launching of two ferryboats, Sea Link and Sea Wind (tel. 242/323-2166), which carry passengers from Nassau in record times, beating the older and much slower mail boat links.
Visitors to Andros are flocking to a new place to stay on island -- the Tiamo Lodge (tel. 242/357-2489) at South Bight. Fully launched in 2003, it is hailed as the most ecologically sensitive inn in the country, lying on 12 acres (4.8h) of sub-tropical land. Most clients come here for the fishing.
The Abacos
A newer, faster sea link has opened with the launching of Sea Wind (tel. 242/323-2166) taking visitors directly from Nassau to Sandy Point in the Abacos in only 1 hour and 50 minutes.
The hot new gathering place for yachties sailing the Abacos is the Tipsy Seagull Bar in Treasure Cay (tel. 242/365-8535) -- an A-frame structure that really jumps on Friday and Saturday nights. Fishermen also show up here in record droves, especially when a tournament is being held.
Eleuthera
At Governor's Harbour, The Cigatoo Resort (tel. 800/688-4752 or 242/332-3060: www.caribbeantrip.com/nhotels/cigatooresort) has opened to immediate success. Even celebrities have been spotted showing up at this remote tropical complex set on a hill, opening onto panoramic views of the sea. It's simple but comfortable and is one of the most tranquil choices in Eleuthera.
Harbour Island is being hailed in the media as the chic new place in the sun, rivaling St. Barts (a French held island known for its celebrity clientele). Part of that new reputation for Harbour Island is because of the opening of Rock House Hotel (tel. 242/333-2053; honeymoons.about.com/cs/bahamas), one of the most stylish inns in The Bahamas. It's set on a low bluff above the harbor. India Hicks, the daughter of famed London decorator, David Hicks, is drawing tout London to the doorstep of The Landing (tel. 242/333-2707), an already established lodge that is taking on increasing sophistication as a result of the media blitz in glitzy travel magazines.
From the first day it opened its doors, Sip Sip (tel. 242/333-3316) became the established place to lunch on the island, with its inspired Bahamian and Mediterranean cuisine. An American/Bahamian couple feeds some of the most discerning palates in The Bahamas.
The Exumas
A motorized catamaran, Sea Link, (tel. 242/393-7457), arrives from Nassau 3 days a week (trip time: 3 hours). Up to now, the arrival options were by airplane or slow-moving mail boat.
Although it had a soft opening in 2003, the five-star resort complex, Four Seasons Resort, Great Exuma at Emerald Bay (tel. 800/819-5053 or 242/358-4185; www.fourseasons.com), didn't swing into full gear until the winter of 2004. The sleepy Exumas has never seen such luxury or such a grand-scale resort. For those who like their Bahamian inns small and intimate, the Coconut Cove Hotel at George Town (tel. 242/336-2659; https://bahamasvacationguide.com/coconutcove) has been restored after a long slumber. It enjoys a setting in the midst of coconut palms and palmettos.
The Southern Bahamas
At last sleepy Mayaguana -- the most remote island recommended in this guide-has an inn -- Baycaner Beach Resort (tel. 242/339-3727), where its host, "Shorty," will answer all your needs on island. The place is simplicity itself but it's clean and comfortable, with a good local cuisine featuring freshly caught conch and grouper.