Toronto's tourism industry suffered a devastating blow in 2003, which is why the Ontario government is spending $3.5 million to lure visitors back. First they lured Conan O'Brien to host his late night talk show from Toronto's Elgin Theatre for a week in February, then they launched an advertising blitz in March. But what does this mean for travelers? Two words: great deals. If you've never been to Toronto, this is the ideal time to get acquainted, because there are sweet packages available. Log on to www.discover.torontotourism.com to see what's currently on offer. If you've already been to Toronto, this is the time to return and see all of the changes that have taken place. Toronto isn't the same city it was even five years ago: its architecture, arts scene, and palate have been evolving at a rapid rate. This is Toronto's time to shine.
Accommodations
Last year brought with it some spectacular new hotels, most notably the SoHo Metropolitan, 318 Wellington St. W., (tel. 800/668-6600; www.metropolitan.com/soho) and the Hotel le Germain, 30 Mercer St., (tel. 866/345-9501). Now, one of the newest properties is also one of the oldest: The Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen Street West (tel. 416/531-5042; thedrakehotel.ca/home.asp) has actually been part of the neighborhood since 1890 (under various names and owners). But it has been remade and relaunched this year as a sleek 19-room boutique hotel. The hotel may be small, but its $6 million reno equipped it with everything from a sushi bar to a yoga studio. It's further from the downtown core than its rivals, but it's also far less expensive: rates here start at about $95 per night.
Dining
Just in case you thought that Toronto didn't have enough excellent restaurants, there are several notable new places to consider. One is JK Church, 9 Church St. (tel. 416/362-2532), which is owned and operated by star chef Jamie Kennedy. Sentimental foodies know that one casualty of the Royal Ontario Museum's ambitious renovation and expansion project was Kennedy's last bistro, JK ROM. His new offering is a tiny gem of a wine bar where the fare is cooked up in front of admiring diners. The plates are small, encouraging diners to sample a few, and the price tags are very reasonable (no dish cost more than $8). One caveat: while the restaurant accepts reservations at lunch, it won't for dinner. Get here before 5:30 if you're serious about scoring a seat.
The Historic Distillery District has become a serious draw with its theater groups, dance troupes and art galleries, and now it is home to a stellar restaurant: Perigee, 55 Mill St. (tel. 416/364-1397). Its dining room is massive compared with JK Church's, but much of the space is dominated by the kitchen. Just 28 counter-style seats are available, so competition to dine here is fierce (though at least they take reservations). Think of this as Food TV come to life. The French-inspired cooking is hearty -- many of the plates feature game meats such as venison or caribou -- but the portions are on the small side. That's good news, because there's no a la carte menu here, just five-, six-, and seven-course prix fixe menus that cost $55-$75. Note: an assistant takes note of diners' preferences and food allergies before the kitchen heats up for the evening.
One newcomer is actually a familiar face: Senses Bakery & Restaurant, has relocated from its former home on Bloor Street West to glamorous new digs at the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel. The chef is still the talented Claudio Aprile, and the current menu is filled with sophisticated international fare such as an appetizer salad that blends tuna tataki with cucumber and nashi pear, and main-dish braised black beef ribs with black truffle noodles, pearl onions and Cookstown carrots. The restaurant is open for dinner from Wednesday through Sunday nights 6:30-11pm; the adjacent bar is open seven days a week from 4pm to 1am. The bakery opened when the hotel did in April, and its hours -- 6am to 8pm -- are unchanged.
Attractions
The Royal Ontario Museum, ROM (www.rom.on.ca) isn't hiding its face during its massive renovations, which won't be complete till 2006. Instead, it's hosting a high-profile exhibit that is sure to intrigue. From February 28, 2004 to June 6, 2004, the ROM will boast Eternal Egypt: Masterworks of Ancient Art from The British Museum. This comprehensive exhibition will illustrate the development and achievements of ancient Egyptian art over more than 3000 years, from the pre-Dynastic to the Roman Periods (c.3100 B.C. to A.D. 170). Eternal Egypt features 144 exceptional objects from the Middle and New Kingdoms and the Late Period, many of which have never before left The British Museum. The ROM will be the first Canadian venue in the North American tour.
Shopping
Gourmet emporium Pusateri's (tel. 416/785-9100; www.pusateris.com) has finally opened its downtown outpost to wide acclaim at 57 Yorkville Ave. (at the corner of Bay St.) A longstanding Toronto institution, Pusateri's uptown location on Avenue Rd. was well out of the way for most visitors to the city. The new 5,500-square-foot shop doesn't just sell gourmet groceries. It's also carries takeout meals, and will prepare special dishes for takeout or delivery for people who call ahead.
Nightlife
Toronto abounds in new places to dance, drink, or de-stress after hours. The newly opened C Lounge, 456 Wellington St. W. (tel. 416/260-9393) has a streamlined space, a sultry sound, and an Aveda mini-spa onsite (now that takes decadence to new heights). Lobby, 192 Bloor St. W. (tel. 416/929-7169), another chic newcomer, boasts its own art gallery, which you can peruse while nursing a cocktail. As the city moves into the warm-weather months, the place to go will be Bambu by the Lake, 245 Queens Quay W. (tel. 416/214-6000), which plays calypso and salsa music by the harborfront.
Side Trips
April is anything but the cruelest month in this corner of the world, bringing with it as it does two eagerly anticipated theater festivals. In Niagara-on-the-Lake, the Shaw Festival's new artistic director, Jackie Maxwell, has unveiled a schedule of performances that includes Eugene O'Neill's "Ah, Wilderness," Terence Rattigan's "Harlequinade," and George Bernard Shaw's "Pygmalion." The Stratford Festival, located in the picturesque town of Stratford, will feature Cole Porter's "Anything Goes," Michael Frayn's "Noises Off," and the Bard's own "A Midsummer Night's Dream." See www.shawfest.com and www.stratfordfestival.ca for more information.