If thoughts of a slow international economy and ongoing insurgencies in Afghanistan and Iraq are holding you back, rest assured: Turkey is still one of the best, safest, easiest and all-around rewarding destinations in the region. And although the Turks opted out of the "coalition of the willing," Turkey, a hopeful candidate for inclusion into the EU, has been on its best behavior, instituting democratic reforms such as the abolition of the death penalty, a loosening of the laws outlawing the Kurdish language and taking hopeful steps closer to a resolution of the Cyprus conflict. In 2005, in a move to counter inflation, Turkey will be chopping all of those zeros off its currency, dashing any hopes for visitors of becoming instant millionaires.
Americans must now fork over $100 on entry, up from the previous visa fee of $65 in 1999.
Trekkers can now walk in the footsteps of St. Paul,tread on ancient Roman roads and enjoy the natural and sometimes wild beauty of the lake district, thanks to the marking and sign-posting of a new (in 2003) long-distance hiking trail.
With the arrival of Onur Air (www.onurair.com), Turkish Airlines no longer has a monopoly on domestic flights, or on your wallet. Onur flies from Istanbul to Ankara, Kayseri, Antalya, and Izmir, in addition to points east. Expect one-way fares for both airlines to level off at around $55.
A new option for travels heading south to Bursa, Çannakale, Troy, Bergama, and Izmir is the Istanbul/Mudanya car ferry, which leaves you in Mudanya on the southern shores of the Marmara Sea, about an hours drive from Bursa; it's about 21/2 to 3 hours drive from Mudanya to Bergama.
Istanbul
The new American Consulate is now located at Istinye Mahallesi, Kaplicalar Mevkii 2 (tel. 0212/335-9000; www.usconsulate-istanbul.org.tr). The British Consulate is temporarily located in the old American Consulate building at 104-108 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Tepebasi. Meanwhile, coming soon is a funicular to hoist people up the hill to Pierre Loti.
A slow economy didn't provide much motivation for new business in Istanbul. Nevertheless, there are a few developments on the hotel scene. The owner of the Apricot Hotel, Akbiyik Cad. 75 (tel. 0212/638-1658; www.apricothotel.com) is now managing a bare-bones pension not far from the original for prices as low as $5 per bed. The Empress Zoe, Akbiyik Cad. Adliye Sok. 10 (tel. 0212/518-2504; www.emzoe.com) bought the building next door and added five new, renovated rooms. The hospitality wizard and former manager of the Blue House and the Sultanahmet Palace recently opened his own hotel: Hotel Mina, Pierloti Cad. Dostluk Yurdu Sok. 6 (tel. 0212/458-2800) treats guests to four-star comfort and boasts a location dangerously close to the Grand Bazaar. Closer to the hustle and bustle of Taksim is the new, fashion-conscious Bentley Hotel, Halaskargazi Cad. 75 (tel. 0212/291-7730; www.boutiquehotelsturkey.com), which has fast become the choice of artists and journalists -- it's also very convenient to the better restaurants and nightlife of Nisantasi. Meanwhile, keep your eyes peeled for the grand opening of the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul on the Bosphorus scheduled to open in 2005.
Blame it on a weak dollar; blame it on extortion. Either way, expect to pay a small fortune in museum entrances. At $22.50 to visit Topkapi Palace (tel. 90/212/512-04-80; www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/topkapi.html) and $11 to see Ayasofya, (tel. 0212/522-1750) to name two, you may be tempted to skip these museums. Don't. After a long period of restoration, the upper gallery of the Ayasofya is now reopened.
We re-emphasize the security issue for men in this edition -- guys should really be aware of the seedier, and more dangerous aspects of being adventurous. We suggest you avoid any and all off-the-beaten-track bars and certainly those with neon lights flashing the word "club" in its name.
Çanakkale
The consistent hoards that flood this gateway to Troy and Gallipoli can now enjoy true luxe at the end of a hard day of touring. The new, five-star Kolin Hotel in the nearby suburb of Kepez (tel. 286/218-0808) boasts its own beach, Kepez's major attraction. For a more intimate arrangement, check out the new boutique property, Ida Kale,Mola Cad. Guzelyali/Canakkale, (tel. 0286/232-8332), and its dizzying array of tiles.
Ephesus
Now opened to the public on a very limited basis (call ahead) is the section of the archaeological site known as the Terraced Houses (Ephesus archaeological site; no phone). Get a glimpse of the lives of the rich and famous of the ancient world, where personal wealth is displayed in the stunning floor mosaics, ochre-colored wall frescos, and peristyle plans. A visit to the Terraced Houses requires a separate ticket of $11.
Bodrum
Restoration of the Antique Theatre is finally complete, and events organizers are taking advantage of this venue for concerts and other performances backed by a scrim of a moonlit sea. Out on the Bodrum Peninsula, the construction of both the Yalikavak and the Turgutreis marinas are now complete. Naturally, both benefit from shiny new accompanying bazaars.
Marmaris
We're tickled that Marmaris proper now offers visitors with reasonable choices for overnight stays. Our favorite in town is the discreetly colorful boutique Hotel Almena, Kemal Elgin Bulvari 45 (tel. 0252/413-8228). Further out almost to the border of Içmeler, the Grand Azur has been completely overhauled and is now the Iberostar Grand Azur, Kenan Evren Bulv. 11 (tel. 0252/417-4050; www.marmarisinfo.com/grandazur).
Fethiye
With increased tourism to Ölüdeniz, so comesincreased pollution. A new program launched by the EU is designed to stem the damage. In Fethiye proper, the developer responsible for the new Ege Sarayi Hotel is now also charged with administering the marina, now double in size.
The renovation and restoration of the marina is to be credited with the new, quasi-Beaux Arts Ege Sarayi Hotel, Karagözler Mevkii 1, in the marina (tel. 0252/612-5005) as well as the manicured waterfront grounds. The hotel's restaurant boasts a sophisticated, continental menu.
Kalkan
Right behind the Kamil Koç office and sheltered under a trellised tangle of vines is Bezirgan's Kitchen (no phone), offering fresh baked bread, gözleme, and home-style fare made fresh daily.
Antalya
Development of Antalya's Konyaalti Beach has finally elevated the status beach resort town to European levels. Konyaalti is now lined with beach clubs, offering lounges, umbrellas, and changing rooms,and café/restaurants, that transform into a lively nighttime venue for a moonlit promenade. Antalya Beach Park (www.beachparkantalya) has a children's playground, a dolphin show, and more to come, as development works its way westward.
With its simplicity, minimalism, charm, and humor, the new Hillside Su, Konyaalti Cad. (tel. 0242/249-0700; res@designhotels.com) adds a whole new level of appeal to Antalya as a destination.
Cappadocia & the Interior
Competition is heating up in the world of hot-air balloons: Both Göreme Balloons (www.goremeballoons.com) and Kapadokaya Balloons (tel. 0384/271-2442) now offer budget flights for as low as $140 for a 45-minute ride.
Ürgüp
The center of town has sprouted a covered cement bazaar -- not the most charming addition to this once-tranquil town. That's progress for you!
Thanks to the new shopping center, Söine, Ürgüp town center (tel. 0384/341-8442) was forced to shift over to the other end of the town center. Now under new management, Söine has a new menu and a rooftop terrace, but still has the original tufa chimney in the center of the dining room. Over in Ayvali, visitors can taste the flavors of a traditional tandir meal at Aravan, Ayvali Village (tel. 0384/354-5838), where every item on the menu is prepared in in-ground cooking pots.
Uçhisar
Elai, Eski Greme Cad. 61 (tel. 0384/219-3181) is a sophisticated restaurant serving European and Turkish specialties, confirming that good eating is becoming a trend in Cappadocia.
Kayseri
It seems as if Hiltons are popping up all over Turkey; Kayseri now has its very own franchise at Cumhuriyet Meydani Istasyon Cad. 1 (tel. 0352/207-5000; www.hilton.com).
Konya
Another Hilton property is located out by the bus station and near the university at Istanbul Yolu, Selcuklu (tel. 0332/221-5000; www.hilton.com).