What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Vancouver & Victoria

Get the latest on where to stay, where to eat, what to do and more in British Columbia.

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By Donald Olson

  Published: Dec 21, 2005

  Updated: Aug 23, 2018

Get the latest on where to stay, where to eat, what to do and more in British Columbia.

Vancouver

For the second year in a row, Condé Nast Traveler magazine voted Vancouver the "Best City in the Americas" at their annual Readers' Choice Awards ceremony held in New York. Vancouver won the top spot over San Miguel de Allende in Mexico, and Buenos Aires in Argentina.

Transportation -- In a major initiative to revitalize their entire fleet, BC Ferries (www.bcferries.com) has completed a major $14-million refit and service upgrade to The Spirit of British Columbia. The vessel is a flagship of the BC Ferries fleet and carries 2.3 million passengers a year on the route from Tsawwassen (Vancouver, BC) to Swartz Bay (Victoria, BC). The passenger service improvements include a new pay-per-use quiet lounge for a fee of C$7 (US$5.60) featuring satellite internet access, newspapers and refreshments; renovated and improved washroom facilities; expanded gift shop; enhanced pet area; renewed children's play areas; upgraded buffet and cafeterias; four flat-screen televisions with fixed programming; local Coast Salish artwork; and a new tourist and customer information area.

Tsawwassen Quay Market (www.tsawwassenquay.com), a new 16,000 sq. ft. shopping facility, has opened at the BC Ferries Tsawwassen Terminal. Located just outside of Vancouver, the terminal is the gateway for visitors traveling to Victoria, Nanaimo or the Southern Gulf Islands from Mainland British Columbia. The new facility features sweeping views of the North Shore mountains; a new totem pole carved by First Nation artist Karl Morgan; 18 food, beverage, service and retail outlets, and four outdoor kiosks featuring seasonal crafts and gifts.

Dining -- Vancouver's dining scene continues to flourish. In 2005, the always fabulous West (2881 Granville St; tel. 604/738-8938), won Vancouver Magazine's prestigious "Best Restaurant" award and Chef David Hawksworth won top honors as "Best Chef." Then, in October, the UK's Sunday Independent newspaper reported Vancouver's West restaurant to be among "ten of the best, worldwide." In the article, West is the only Canadian restaurant to be mentioned alongside cutting edge gastronomic greats such as

Alain Ducasse's Louis XV in Monaco; Arzak in San Sebastien, Spain; Fergus Henderson's St John, in London; Alinea in Chicago; David Kinch's Manresa in Los Gatos; and Marque in Sydney.

In an effort to draw attention to some of the lesser known seafoods of the Pacific shores, innovative executive chef Frank Pabst at Yaletown's acclaimed seafood restaurant Blue Water Café (1095 Hamilton St.; tel. 604/688-8078), has launched an "unsung heroes" menu that he hopes will help reduce the impact of over fishing more popular fish and allowing stocks to replenish while introducing diners to new and interesting alternatives. In addition to local favorites, such as halibut and salmon, Pabst is creating new dishes with anchovies, sardines and mackerel. Braised octopus, grilled cuttlefish, seared squid, sea urchin, geoduck, periwinkles, honey mussels and a variety of seaweeds contribute more exciting tastes and textures.

Araxi in Whistler , and CinCin (1154 Robson St.; tel. 604/688-7338), Blue Water Cafe and West (2881 Granville St.; tel. 604/738-8938) in Vancouver, each received a prestigious "Gold Glass Wine List Award" at the 2005 International Wine Festival Awards. A large panel of expert judges reviewed wine list submissions looking for concise presentation, harmony with menu, balanced varietal selections, a varied representation of styles, vintage depth and different formats. Each restaurant's in-house wine program, staff knowledge, storage presentation and glassware were also adjudicated.

Tourism Vancouver invites visitors to experience the city's outstanding food and wine scene during Dine Out Vancouver 2006. From January 20 to February 2, 2006, visitors can enjoy a special 3-course dinner at one of Vancouver's hottest restaurants for C$15, C$25 or C$35 (US$12, $20, $28) per person without wine. The list of participating restaurants and menus will be posted on the Tourism Vancouver website (www.tourismvancouver.com) on January 3, 2006.

Attractions -- The Vancouver Aquarium (Stanley Park; tel. 604/659-FISH; www.vanaqua.org) recently welcomed two new female Pacific white-sided dolphins from Japan, joining Spinnaker and Laverne in the Wild Coast exhibit. The two new dolphins, Helen and an unnamed female, were rescued by the Japanese government after becoming entangled in fishing nets. Currently under construction at the aquarium is the new Discovery Education Centre, scheduled to open in late 2006. The new building will be approximately 50,000 sq. ft. spread over four floors, including two floors below grade, and will feature new animal exhibits, a multi-purpose theatre, two classrooms and a hands-on "wet lab".

Nightlife -- Opera lovers may want to include a performance by the outstanding Vancouver Opera (tel. 604/683-0222; www.vancouveropera.ca) in their itinerary. Performances in 2006 include Don Giovanni (March 4, 7, 9, 11, 13), Faust (April 22, 25, 27, 29, May 2), Der Freischütz (August 1), and Naomi's Room (September 30, October 1, 2). Performances usually take place at Queen Elizabeth Theatre on Hamilton St. between Georgia and Dunsmuir.

Shopping -- After eight years at the Yaletown location, Barbara Jo McIntosh has expanded her shop, Barbara Jo's Books to Cooks (www.bookstocooks.com), and moved into two new locations. The first is in the Net Loft on Granville Island (tel. 604/684-6798), and the second larger location is at 1740 2nd Ave. (tel. 604/688-6755). The stores stock cookbooks, wine books and periodicals from around the world, including professional books and a carefully chosen selection of out-of-print books and "rare finds."

Guided Tours -- Starting in May 2006, Rocky Mountaineer Vacations (www.rockymountaineer.com) will introduce "Whistler Escapes", eight packaged tours featuring Canada's newest train, the Whistler Mountaineer. These short-break vacations range from 3 to 5 days and can be added to a cruise, a Rocky Mountaineer rail vacation or taken alone. One of the highlights of the packages is the "Sky, Sea and Rail Escape", with guests beginning their journey with an overnight stay in Vancouver then taking a 30-minute float plane flight to Victoria for another overnight stay. A second float plane flight to Whistler over the Georgia Strait and Coastal Mountain range follows and, after a night in Whistler, the trip ends with a three-hour afternoon rail excursion back to Vancouver on the Whistler Mountaineer. This particular trip starts at C$964 (US$825) per person.

Beginning May 1, 2006, Pacific Coach Lines Ltd. (www.pacificcoach.com) will launch a new Island Excursion Program to Vancouver Island. The tour will depart downtown Vancouver at 9am on the HarbourLynx high speed passenger ferry for Nanaimo. Upon arrival in Nanaimo, a Pacific Coach Lines driver/guide will take visitors along the scenic Malahat Highway with a sightseeing stop in the mural town of Chemanius and arriving in Victoria, British Columbia's capital city, for a day visit or overnight stay. On the return trip to Vancouver via Pacific Coach Lines and BC Ferries, visitors can either take the sightseeing transfer that will include a two-hour visit to The Butchart Gardens or return directly to downtown Vancouver or the Vancouver Airport. In addition, Pacific Coach Lines will also be offering a morning departure from Victoria to Vancouver via HarbourLynx and the Malahat Highway. This excursion will also include a sightseeing stop in Chemanius. For more information visit www.pacificcoach.com.

Victoria

Accommodations -- After achieving #1 for guest satisfaction among Marriott Hotels in Canada, the Victoria Marriott Inner Harbour (www.victoriamarriot.com) has now been recognized as #1 among Marriott Hotels in all of North America for guest satisfaction. The 16-story Victoria hotel, which opened in 2004, was chosen over 319 other full service Marriott Hotels.

Starwood Hotels & Resorts has announced a franchise agreement for Victoria, BC's Bear Mountain Resort, home to Vancouver Island's only Jack and Steve Nicklaus co-designed 18-hole golf course with a second Nicklaus course set to open in 2007. Phase I of the resort is the current Fairways Building which offers 65 suites ranging from deluxe hotel rooms to luxury one- and two-bedroom accommodations. Due to be complete in May 2006, Phase II of the resort will be the 160,000 sq. ft. Clubhouse featuring an additional 91 guest rooms and suites, an accredited Santé Spa, restaurant, bar, lounge and conference facility. Bear Mountain Resort is one of the largest resort developments in Western Canada, covering 1,200 acres. For more information visit www.bearmountaingolf.com.

Attractions -- Improvements to an old logging road have resulted in the new Pacific Marine Circle Tour. The 52km (32 mile) loop road, which opened in 2005, makes it easier to get to Port Renfrew, Sooke, Jordan River, and Lake Cowichan on a day-long circular tour. For details, check with the Tourism Victoria Visitor Info Centre (812 Wharf St.; tel. 800/663-3883; www.tourismvictoria.com).

Victoria's Prince of Whales whale watching tour (www.princeofwhales.com) has launched a newly constructed, high-tech, 62 ft. aluminum express cruiser with seating for 72 passengers and capable of reaching speeds of 50 kmh (30 mph). The "big boat" offers tour groups the largest capacity available on a single vessel for whale watching in Victoria. The new boat is expected to operate year-round and features a low noise signature above and under water, making it more "whale-friendly" than most boats with propellers. The boat also includes spacious viewing decks and airline-style washrooms. The waters surrounding Victoria are home to three resident pods of orca whales totaling 80 whales, plus sea lions, seals, porpoise and a number of marine birds. Visitors can join local certified naturalists for a guided marine adventure tour to see and learn about these animals first-hand. Rates for a 3-hour whale watching tour with Prince of Whales begin at C $65.00 (US$52) per person.

The hot new "sport" of geocaching -- hunting for prizes using Global Positioning System (GPS) technology -- has arrived in Victoria at Hatley Park National Historic Site with the launch of a 90-minute Geocache Treasure Hunt Workshop for groups. Geocaching is a four-season outdoor activity where participants enjoy nature while searching for thousands of prizes using hand-held GPS units to mark the hidden cache locations. GPS treasure hunting promotes the wise use of trails with technology that leaves "no ecological footprint." Minimum group size is 10 people and all ages are welcome. Cost per person is C$75 (US$60). Located 25 minutes from downtown Victoria, Hatley Park is a 565 acre Edwardian estate containing the 1908 Hatley Castle, First Nations heritage, 10 heritage gardens, old growth forests including more than 15km (9 miles) of nature trails and spectacular vistas overlooking the Esquimalt Lagoon and the Juan de Fuca Strait to the Olympic Mountains in Washington State. For more information visit www.canadianecology.ca.

Guided Tours -- Wilson's Transportation Ltd. (www.wilsonstransportation.com), a locally owned and operated company with over 35 years experience in Victoria, has expanded to create a tour division called Wilson's Diamond Tours, offering a selection of day tours and vacation packages including some of Vancouver Island's most popular year-round outings. Tours include the Butchart Gardens, Castles of Victoria, A Victorian Christmas, The Saanich Peninsula, Cowichan Valley Wine and Cheese, Tofino Storm Watching, Lady Rose Cruise to Ucluelet, as well as others around BC, Washington and Oregon.

Side Trips

Judges at the 16th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards awarded Whistler's Araxi (4222 Village Sq.; tel. 604/932-4540) with "Gold, Best Restaurant in Whistler" for an unprecedented sixth consecutive year. Araxi's reputation for delivering innovative, regional cuisine has been the goal of executive chef Andrew Richardson, since taking over the kitchen in 2004. Drawing on Michelin starred experience from his native England, his inspiration now comes from an abundance of quality local ingredients; his dishes are seasonal and refined, beautifully presented with the natural flavors allowed to shine.

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