This rapidly changing archipelago, controlled by both the United States and Great Britain, explodes with new developments year after year. There's always a new resort opening up or an old one closing down, and the roster of what's hot in dining shifts from year to year. Here are the highlights of the latest developments in the Virgin Islands.
St. Thomas
Not your usual Stateside B&B, Caribbean Style, Route 317 at Cabrita Point (tel. 800/593-1390 or 340/715-1117), is a small cluster of oceanfront condos run by a hospitable photographer who also helps arrange weddings. Rentals are "equipped to the max," and there's an on-site seafood restaurant.
The big news coming out of Wyndham Sugar Bay Resort & Spa, 6500 Estate Smith Bay (tel. 800/WYNDHAM or 340/777-7100; www.wyndham.com), is the opening of one of the largest full service spas in all the Virgins. It's truly state-of-the-art, known for its "stone massages."
In St. Thomas's most famous hotel, Bluebeard's Castle, A Room with a View, Bluebeard's Hill (tel. 340/774-2377), has opened to acclaim. Its international cuisine is finely honed, and the views are panoramic from this lookout point.
Tavern on the Waterfront, Royal Dane Mall (tel. 340/776-4328), is hot on Bluebeard's trail, also attracting serious foodies to its Caribbean and French-inspired cuisine. The tavern is also a celebrity favorite, and some of its dishes such as the barbecue pork have won local awards.
A sylvan retreat, Robert's American Grille in Elysian Beach Resort, 6800 Estate Nazareth (tel. 340/775-1000), features one of the best American regional cuisines on island, including everything from cherry chicken to pan-fried pork loin medallions.
The best selection of fabrics is found at the new Fabric in Motion, Storetvaer Gade (tel. 340/774-2006), displaying everything from silk-like cottons from Liberty's of London to the best of linens from Italy.
Along the waterfront in Charlotte Amalie, Happy Buzzard, 26A Royal Dane Mall (tel. 340/777-8676), has gained a lot of new fans since its opening. Special events, including live music, are a feature here.
St. John
The hot new restaurant is Chloe & Bernard's, in the Westin Resort St. John, Great Cruz Bay (tel. 340/693-800), serving a top-notch international cuisine in luxurious surroundings. Savory dishes are redolent of Caribbean sunshine and full of flavor. On the Italian culinary front, Zozo's Ristorante, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/693-9200), has shot to the forefront of local competition, with its succulent delights including some of the island's best pasta dishes such as lobster ravioli.
Some of the best seafood is prepared at Fish Trap, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/693-9994), in a laid-back atmosphere. The fresh fish is cooked with West Indian seasonings. Rumbalaya Bar & Restaurant, Wharfside Village (tel. 340/714-6969), is one of the best all-around restaurants with its savory Caribbean cuisine. It's a fun dining spot that often attracts families during the day with its well-stuffed sandwiches and juicy burgers.
Polli's, in a lumberyard across from the ferry dock in Cruz Bay (tel. 340/775-4550), has pulled up stakes in St. Thomas and sailed across the bay with its spicy Tex-Mex fare. It's even better in its new location.
St. Croix
In lieu of any new resort openings, the spotlight has focused on two choice B&Bs. Carringtons Inn, 4001 Estate Hermon Hill (tel. 877/658-0508 or 340/713-0508; www.carringtonsinn.com), offers five spacious and beautifully furnished guest rooms with first-class private bathrooms.
Another new B&B is Innparadise, 1 Estate Golden Rock (tel. 866/800-9803 or 340/713-9803; www.innparadisestcroix.com), near Christiansted. Two owners from the American South welcome you here as if they would a guest in a private home.
The best wine cellar and some of the best food is today served at the new Bacchus, Queen Cross St., off King street in Christiansted (tel. 340/692-9922), specializing in steaks and Continental cuisine. The kitchen uses first-class ingredients, its dishes combining flavor with finesse.
Board Walk Inn, 1200 King Cross St. (tel. 340/773-5762), in Christiansted, is one of the best all-around eateries to open in the capital in some time. With a breezy Caribbean motif, it entices you with its tropical drinks, steaks, seafood, and pasta.
The Chase Place, Chandler's Wharf (tel. 340/719-3167), is another good seafood and steak house, this one at Gallows Bay. The big, buttery, and moist fish platters are some of the island's best. Rustic and inviting, Golden Banana Café, St. Croix Marina (tel. 340/719-1989), has also opened at Gallows Bay. It's a popular cafe serving international cuisine, beginning with large, tasty breakfasts at 7am.
The spicy cuisines of the Caribbean, Thailand, and Mexico unite to form the culinary offerings at Savant, 4C Hospital St. (tel. 340/713-8666), in Christiansted. This is fusion cuisine at the island's best. One of the best choices for breakfast or lunch is The Avocado Pitt, Kings Wharf in Christiansted (tel. 340/773-9843). Expect rib-sticking fare full of flavor.
The St. Croix Archaeological Society Museum, Company St. (tel. 340/692-2365), has opened in Christiansted. It displays island artifacts, some of which date back 4,000 years.
British Virgin Islands
On the island of Virgin Gorda, Katitche Point Greathouse, Plum Bay Rd., The Valley (tel. 284/495-5672; www.katitchepoint.com), is a citadel of luxury designed by a noted British architect. It is a beautifully furnished "greathouse" attracting well-heeled travelers to its precincts where they are afforded total privacy and lots of living space. The villa can comfortably hold up to 13 guests.
On Tortola, one of the best places for a 5-course home-cooked meal is at Round Hill Vacation Villa, West End (tel. 284/495-9353). Here Jocelyn and Allan Rhymer shop for the freshest of ingredients to shape in an ever-changing and enticing menu every night. Also on Tortola, Fat Hog Bob's, Maya Cove, East End (tel. 284/495-1010), serves the island's tastiest spareribs cooked in a savory sauce.
On the island of Virgin Gorda, The Restaurant at Leverick Bay, North Sound (tel. 284/495-7154), has won new fans ever since its opening, with its finely honed Continental cuisine. It's a combined restaurant and beach bar.