This rapidly changing archipelago, controlled by both the United States and Great Britain, explodes with new developments year after year. There's always a new resort opening up or an old one shutting down, and the roster of what's hot in dining shifts frequently.
Here are the highlights of the latest developments in the Virgin Islands, both American and British.
St. Thomas
In Charlotte Amalie, capital of St. Thomas, The Green Iguana, 37B Blackbeard's Hill (tel. 800/484-8825; www.thegreeniguana.com), has opened to immediate acclaim as the best B&B-style accommodation in the port. Bedrooms open onto panoramic views of the harbor, and it's only a 5-minute walk from the center of Charlotte Amalie, where you'll find all sorts of discount shopping.
Along the South Coast, the largest hotel in the U.S. Virgin Islands is the new Frenchman's Reef & Marriott Morning Star Beach Resort, No. 5 Estate Bakkeroe, Flamboyant Point (tel. 800/524-2000 or 340/776-8500; www.marriott.com), a mega-resort combination of two adjoining properties that have existed next door to one another for quite some time. Morning Star gets the nod for having the best of the 504 rooms.
For some down-home island cooking in Charlotte Amalie, head for Cuzzin's Caribbean Restaurant & Bar, 7 Wimmelskafts Gade (tel. 340/777-4711). Installed in an 18th-century stable on what locals call "Back Street," it focuses on locally caught seafood such as conch and lobster. The cooks also turn out a number of native dishes, especially spicy curries.
In Frenchtown, west of Charlotte Amalie, the longtime island favorite Alexander's is gone with the wind, transforming itself into Bella Blue, French Town Mall (tel. 340/774-4349), which specializes in Mediterranean-style cuisine, with a focus on seafood. Seasonal shopping and market-fresh ingredients are the hallmarks of this new place, which has already won devotees.
Situated nearby, in the old Villa Olga (the former Russian consulate), is the new Oceana, 8 Honduras (tel. 340/774-4262), specializing in international cuisine. Again, the menu emphasizes freshly caught seafood, including different preparations of Caribbean lobster.
St. John
On the smallest and most beautiful of the U.S. Virgin Islands, new eateries are opening and winning immediate favor. Chief among these is Chilly Billy's, Lumberyard Shopping Center, Boulon Center Road (tel. 340/693-8708), serving one of the best breakfasts on the island. The cooks are known for their "monkey bread toast," which is raisin and apple bread soaked in an egg batter laced with Bailey's Irish Cream.
Another popular restaurant is the Sun Dog Café, found on the upper floors of the Mongoose Shopping Center (tel. 340/693-8340), along North Shore Road. One of the most affordable cafes on island, it offers such delights as a white artichoke pizza, and a Jamaican jerk chicken sandwich.
St. Croix
On the north coast, between Christiansted and Frederiksted, the Inn at Pelican Heights, 4201 Estate St. John (off Rte. 751; tel. 888/445-9458 or 340/713-8022; www.innatpelicanheights.com), opens onto panoramic views of the water. Ideal for escapists, it features individually decorated, comfortable bedrooms, and serves one of the island's best breakfasts. It's located a 10-minute walk from the beach.
A campsite, Mount Victory Camp, Creque Dam Road outside Drederiksted (tel. 866/772-1651 or 340/772-1651; www.mtvictorycamp.com), has opened on 8 lush acres in St. Croix's rainforest, on well-landscaped grounds. Five open-to-the-breezes cottages accommodate four to six adults. It's only a 2-mile drive to the nearest white sandy beach.
New and affordable eateries continue to open and win devoted followings. Breezez, sitting poolside at Club St. Croix, 3220 Golden Rock (tel. 340/773-7077), offers a good range of international dishes. The chef's lobster Thermidor, and the lobster with fresh herbs and garlic, are some of the island's best lobster dishes.
In Frederiksted, good American food is found at the Los Angeles Café Bar & Restaurant along King Street (tel. 340/772-0016). The menu is devoted to fresh fish, among other specialties, and you can pig out on mahimahi, crab, and lobster.
In the capital of Christiansted, Savant, 4C Hospital St. (tel. 340/713-8666), has the spiciest cuisine in town, featuring the fiery cooking of both Thailand and Mexico. For us, the Thai curries are the way to go. For the asbestos palate, the cooks prepare a "nuclear" version.
At the Holger Danske Hotel, The Mix, 1200 King Cross St. (tel. 340/773-5762; www.bestwestern.com), offers both indoor and outdoor dining, and an array of American specialties that range from prime rib to seafood.
Finally, Rum Runners has been installed at the Hotel Caravelle on the boardwalk at Queen's Cross Street (tel. 340/773-6585; www.rumrunnersstcroix.com). This open-air restaurant does Caribbean cuisine, featuring such dishes as pork tenderloin with grilled banana, among other delights.
The home of one of the island's oldest and most prestigious families has been turned into the Carl and Marie Lawaetz Museum, Mahogany Road, Route 76, Estate Little La Grange (tel. 340/772-1539; www.stcroixlandmarks.com), set on 19 acres. Family members conduct visitors on a tour of their old homestead, set in a valley at La Grange.
St. Croix has another historic attraction open to the public: Little Princess Estate, Route 75 (tel. 340/773-5575). Set on 25 acres, the Great House, the grounds, the old windmill, and the former sugar and rum factory of this 1749 sugar plantation can be toured. The estate was the former home of the first Danish governor of St. Croix.
Tortola
On the remote northeastern section of the main island in the British Virgins, the Lambert Beach Resort, Lambert Bay, East End (tel. 284/495-2877; www.lambertbeachresort.com), has opened an idyllic retreat for escapists. Set on .8km (1/2 mile) of white-sand beach, it offers first-class rooms and amenities.
In yet another part of Tortola--in fact an island unto itself--Cooper Island Beach Club, Manchioneel Bay (tel. 800/542-4624 or 413/863-3162; www.cooper-island.com/hoteld.html), represents a return to the simpler life. Although modern comforts have been installed, the complex is far from luxurious. Like the property above, this place is ideal for escapists seeking a hideaway from the world.
The best French food on the island is served at the newly popular Le Cabanon, Waterfront Drive (tel. 284/494-8660), in Road Town. Sitting at a table on an outdoor patio, you can sample classic French dishes, which are prepared exceedingly well. The red snapper meunière gets our vote for best dish.
Virgin Gorda
Once the most famous antique inn in the B.V.I., Old Yard Village, The Valley (tel. 284/495-5544; www.oldeyardvillage.com), has bounced back with a choice of luxury studios, and one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments, as well as two-bedroom town houses. Its past buried forever, the complex now features the most up-to-date accommodations on island.
Near the Bitter End Yacht Club, Saba Rock Resort, North Sound (tel. 284/495-7711; www.sabarock.com), features stylish one-bedroom suites and two-bedroom villas. This is a favorite with visiting yachties, who like the wicker-and-wood bedrooms, decorated in a breezy West Indian palette of pastels.
Anegada
Facilities on this remote island continue to expand with the opening of Anegada Seaside Villas, West End (tel. 284/495-9466; www.anegadavillas.com), with seven modern accommodations that front miles of deserted, white-sand beaches. Rooms are bright and breezy, with all the necessary comforts.
Talk with fellow travelers on our Virgin Islands Message Boards today.