A great choice for wine lovers, L’Ourcine has a long list of bottles from small, little-known French vineyards. A personal favorite is the 2012 Fitou by Château de Nouvelles in the Aude region, a full-bodied red with notes of violet and rosemary (35€). And ready to soak it all up are reasonably priced, delicious dishes that might include Brittany lobster (fresh off the boat and whizzed into Paris), foie gras–stuffed chicken, and (in autumn) venison, the latter served in a rich berry and red wine sauce. Dessert could follow with creamy, vanilla-infused riz au lait (rice pudding) or apples flamed in Calvados and served with caramel ice cream. The 29€ menu is a particularly great deal.