Active Pursuits

Acapulco is known for its great beaches and watersports, and few visitors bother to explore its traditional downtown area. But the shaded zócalo (also called Plaza Alvarez) is worth a trip, to experience a glimpse of local life and color. Inexpensive cafes and shops border the plaza. At its far north end is the cathedral Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, with blue, onion-shaped domes and Byzantine towers. Though reminiscent of a Russian Orthodox church, it was originally (and perhaps appropriately) built as a movie set, then later adapted into a house of worship. From the church, turn east along the side street going off at a right angle (Calle Carranza, which doesn't have a marker) to find an arcade with newsstands and more shops. The hill behind the cathedral provides an unparalleled view of Acapulco. Take a taxi to the top of the hill from the main plaza, and follow signs to El Mirador (lookout point).

Local travel agencies book city tours, day trips to Taxco, cruises, and other excursions and activities. Taxco is about a 3-hour drive inland from Acapulco.

Bay Cruises & Roqueta Island

The waters of Acapulco are dotted with virtually every kind of boat -- yachts, catamarans, and trimarans (single- and double-deckers). Cruises run morning, afternoon, and evening. Some offer buffets, open bars, and live music; others just snacks, drinks, and taped music. Prices range from $26 to $50. Cruise operators come and go, and their phone numbers change so frequently from year to year that it's pointless to list them here; to find out what cruises are currently operating, contact any Acapulco travel agency or your hotel's tour desk, and ask for brochures or recommendations.

Boats from Caletilla Beach to Roqueta Island -- a good place to snorkel, sunbathe, hike to a lighthouse, visit a small zoo, or have lunch -- leave every 15 minutes from 9am until the last one returns at 5:30pm for under $10 round-trip. There are also primitive-style glass-bottom boats that circle the bay as you look down at a few fish and watch a diver swim down to the underwater sanctuary of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexico. The statue of the Virgin -- created by sculptor Armando Quesado -- was placed there in 1958, in memory of a group of divers who lost their lives at the spot. You can purchase tickets ($5) directly from any boat that's loading.

Watersports & Boat Rentals

An hour of water-skiing at Coyuca Lagoon can cost as little as $35 or as much as $70.

Scuba diving costs about $80 for 4 hours of instruction, when you book through a hotel or travel agency. Dive trips start at around $90 per person for one- or two-tank dives. One reputable shop, near Club de Esquís, is Divers de México (tel. 744/482-1398). We also recommend Fish-R-Us (tel. 744/482-8282; www.fish-r-us.com), which offers shore and boat dives, usually to Roqueta Island. Sunken ships, sea mountains, and cave rock formations are all on display around the area. Boat rentals are cheapest on Caletilla Beach, where you can usually find inner tubes, small boats, canoes, paddleboats, and chairs for rent.

For deep-sea fishing excursions, go to the boat cooperative's pink building opposite the zócalo, or book a day in advance (tel. 744/482-1099). Charter trips run $250 to $450 for 6 to 7 hours, tackle and bait included, with an extra charge for ice, drinks, and lunch. Credit cards are accepted, but you're likely to get a better deal by paying cash. Boats leave at 7am and return at 2pm. Fish-R-Us (tel. 744/482-8282) also books quality excursions. If you book through a travel agent or hotel, prices start at around $250 for four people. In addition to traditional fishing charters, they offer private yacht charters, scuba diving, and a 3-hour Night of Delight cruise, with dinner served on board. Prices vary per the service requested and number of people; call for details.

Parasailing, though not free from risk (the occasional thrill-seeker has collided with a palm tree or even a building), can be brilliant. Floating high over the bay hanging from a parachute towed by a motorboat costs about $35. Most of these rides operate on Condesa Beach, but they also can be found independently operating on the beach in front of most hotels along the Costera.

Golf & Tennis

Both the Acapulco Princess (tel. 744/469-1000) and Pierre Marqués (tel. 744/466-1000) hotels share top-notch golf courses. The Princess's course is a rather narrow, level, Ted Robinson design. The Marques course, redesigned by Robert Trent Jones. Jr. in 1980 for the World Cup Golf Tournament, is longer and more challenging. A morning round of 18 holes at the Princess course costs $125 for guests and $135 for nonguests (discounted rates for afternoon rounds); prices are $10 more at the Marques course. American Express, Visa, and MasterCard are accepted, and the cart is included in the fee. Tee times begin at 7:30am, and reservations should be made at least a day in advance. Club rental is available for an extra $40. The Mayan Palace Golf Club, Geranios 22 (tel. 744/469-6043 or 466-2260), designed by Latin American golf great Pedro Guericia, lies farther east. Greens fees are $145 for visitors, and caddies are available for an additional $20. At the Club de Golf Acapulco, off the Costera next to the convention center (tel. 744/484-0781), you can play 9 holes for $50 and 18 holes for $80, with equipment renting for $10.

The Robert von Hagge-designed course at the exclusive Tres Vidas Golf Club, Carretera a Barra Vieja Km 7 (tel. 744/444-5126), is spectacular. The par-72, 18-hole course, right on the edge of the ocean, is landscaped with nine lakes, dotted with palms, and home to a flock of ducks and other birds. The club is open only to members, guests of members, and guests at Tres Vidas or a few other participating hotels. Greens fees are $200, including cart; a caddy is $20. Also here is a clubhouse with a restaurant (daily 7am-10pm), as well as a pool. American Express, Visa, and MasterCard are accepted.

The Club de Tenis Gran Hotel Acapulco, Costera Alemán 1 (tel. 744/484-1225), is open daily from 7am to 11pm. Outdoor courts cost $10 per hour during the day, $15 per hour at night; Rackets rent for $3 and a set of balls costs $2. Many of the hotels along the Costera have tennis facilities for guests; the best are at the Fairmont Princess, Mayan Palace, and Las Brisas hotels. The Fairmont Princess (tel. 744/469-1000) also allows nonguests to play for $20 per hour.

Riding & Bullfights

You can go horseback riding along the beach. Independent operators stroll the Hotel Zone beachfront offering rides for about $25 to $45 for 1 to 2 hours. Horses are also commonly found on the beach in front of the Acapulco Princess Hotel. There is no phone; you go directly to the beach to make arrangements.

Traditionally called Fiesta Brava, bullfights are held during Acapulco's winter season at a ring (called Plaza de Toros) up the hill from Caletilla Beach. Tickets purchased through travel agencies cost around $17 to $40 and usually include transportation to and from your hotel. You can also buy a general admission ticket at the stadium for $4.50. Be forewarned that this is a true bullfight -- meaning things generally do not fare well for the bull. The festivities begin at 5:30pm each Sunday from late November to late February.