Pousada Uakarí in the Mamiraua

The only place in the Brazilian Amazon practicing real eco-tourism, the Uakarí pousada is the eco-tourism branch of the Mamiraua Sustainable Development Institute. The Mamiraua reserve was created on the upper Amazon in 1999 in order to preserve the prime habitat of the Ukarí monkey (a primate with a bright red face and pale white fur, often called the English monkey). Initiated by the Brazilian scientist who first studied the Ukairi, the institute fosters research, while working to preserve the area by helping local inhabitants develop alternate ways of exploiting the forest. The eco-tourism operation is part of that effort. Accommodations are in small but comfortable chalets, each with its own hot shower and veranda. Excursions completely break the pattern set in other lodges. In the wet season visitors get paddled through the forest in small canoes. In the dry season tours go on walking trails. Each trip goes to a different area, and the territory has very little human impact. Nighttime excursions aim not to capture a caiman, but to show off the nocturnal animals. A local guide is always present; normally there is a trained naturalist as well. Nature talks are a nightly occurrence. The researchers working in the area have dinner one evening with guests, and share their experience. For longer stays at certain times of year, guests can accompany researchers in the field. Good as all this sounds, there are disadvantages. Guides are local people being trained in tourism; they may not be as polished. It's a lot farther to go. The ecosystem is varzea, so there are more mosquitoes. And it's very nature-focused, which isn't for everyone.

Getting to Tefe: Tefe lies some 200km (125 miles) upriver of Manaus. TRIP (tel. 0300/789-4747; www.voetrip.com.br) has flights 6 days a week. The cost of a one-way ticket starts at R$349. There is also a fast ferry departing Manaus for Tefe at 7am every Wednesday and Saturday. The journey takes about 12 hours. The cost is R$190.

Lodge Checklist: Distance: 200km (125 miles); Biome: Varzea; Size: 10; Boat Capacity: 12; Boat Motors: Outboard; Canoes: Yes, canoes used for most excursions, but no individual canoeing allowed; Library: Yes; Biologist: Yes; Nature Talks: Yes; Other Excursions: Yes.

Facilities:
Restaurant; bar

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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